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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
For those of you who participated in the group buy, this thread will hopefully serve as your instructions.

Two important things to note before beginning: Even if your main fuel tank is empty, you will spill gasoline when you pull apart the fuel pressure regulator. Please make sure that your workspace is well ventilated, free from open flame, safe from ladies angry about the gasoline smell etc!
Second, this project requires a few tools. Your standard metric allen keys & sockets, a thin flat blade screwdriver, razor blade / utility knife, and a T30 security Torx bit. A regular Torx bit will not work, it needs a hole in the center or you won't be able to remove the side cover over the aux fuel tank! You might also need a few drops of engine oil & a heat gun to coax the braided line onto the tank fittings.


1: First step is removing your fuel tank. Best practice is to already have it empty, but you can work around it if there is still gasoline inside.

2: Remove the left side cover. There is one T30 bolt, and one 4mm socket cap screw in the top left corner. The cover will pull out towards you, and now you can remove the two bolts holding the key lock in place. Unclip the cable and set the cover aside.

3: You should now have access to everything. Unbolt the dry break from the engine mount. The hose clamps can be released with a small flatblade screwdriver, and both dry breaks and their hoses removed. If you still have fuel in the main tank, remove the dry break & hose attached to the aux tank first, reattach to the main tank & drain into a suitable container.

4: Remove the fuel pressure regulator, extra bracketry, etc from the motor mount. This can be a PITA just due to how much space you have, take your time but remember that everything goes. I recommend removing the motor mount to shave it down as well.
NOTE: The fuel pressure regulator will leak fuel when it is unbolted & pulled apart. This is normal, just be aware.
NOTE: Don't lose the two small bolts holding the fuel pressure regulator together, you will re-use them along with 2 nuts included in the kit.

5: Carefully remove the two halves of the FPR from its hoses. Save the rubber line, because you will use some of it later.
The hard tubing that leads to the fuel injectors will need to be carefully cut off with a razor blade. Take care, because the fitting underneath is plastic, and there is an O-ring you don't want to damage. A little patience will go a long way, just take your time.

6: Install the new 12" long 5/16" fuel line onto the aux tank, using the FI rated hose clamp.

7: With the hard tubing removed, rotate the fitting by the fuel injectors and re-purpose a piece of the original 5/16" tubing, routing it around the throttle body (Make sure the throttle turns freely and doesn't catch on anything). The spring found on the original tank line can be slipped over for protection. Cut this piece to appropriate length so that the FPR can be attached between the old and new hose. I zip tied my FPR to the frame rail, I'm sure there are other ways of doing that. Once you're happy with where everything is located, clamp the hoses in place with the remaining 3 clamps.

8: Install the new dry breaks & their hoses. A little engine oil will help them slide over the nipples, try a little heat as well if that doesn't work. Take care using heat around gasoline, the Warrior will not be happy if it's reduced to a pile of ashes! Clamp the braided lines in place.

9: Zip tie the hoses securely, reinstall the key lock, and reinstall the side cover. Be sure to install the lock in the same position it was originally & don't forget to clip the cable back in place, or it will not work.

10: Shave & paint your motor mount as desired. Be careful when reinstalling the motor mount, they bolt into aluminum & the threads can be easily damaged. Reinstall your gas tank.

EDIT: Check post #27 for a parts list

I think that should cover it... Post up here with any questions. Pictures coming on the next post.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Hopefully these pictures help illustrate the first post.

In pic 3, note that I used an abrasive resistant covering rather than the spring located by the stock dry break. I would recommend the spring.

In pic 3, note the shape of the original hose which is cut & re-used.

Pictures 3 - 7 should help visualize the location of the fuel pressure regulator.

Last picture illustrates the installed, finished product. Note the shaved motor mount.
 

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Ok all here goes:

I followed the direction that Jason has already posted - with a few minor adjustments.

So the only difference on my install is:

1) I used the factory fuel line from the AUX tank to the FPR, I just cut it down to the length that I needed. I used the 12" piece supplied with the kit to go from the FPR to the fuel injector, again I just cut it down to the length that I needed.

2) I reused the factory "CRIMP" fuel line clamps on everything except the FPR to the fuel injectors. I also installed the "SPRING" thingy on that section of the hose as Jason suggested.





 

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Discussion Starter #5
Finished product looks great!

I like the gold on mine, but all black is really sharp too. Thanks for the pics, & I'm glad that it went together smoothly for you. I really struggled when I put the 8AN line on mine even after expanding the line a bit, but I was half-crippled at the time & I think a lot of my difficulty can be attributed to that. Lol
 

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Fuel line looks good, but with the line up along the gas tank you will not empty your tank. You will probably only get like 90 miles till the light comes on. It looks better that way, just does not function as good.
 

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Fuel line looks good, but with the line up along the gas tank you will not empty your tank. You will probably only get like 90 miles till the light comes on. It looks better that way, just does not function as good.

No disrespect meant, but can you explain this comment? Looking at the pictures, it seems that the line is running lower than the lowest part of the tank. What causes it to incorrectly trigger the fuel light?


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No disrespect meant, but can you explain this comment? Looking at the pictures, it seems that the line is running lower than the lowest part of the tank. What causes it to incorrectly trigger the fuel light?


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The angle of the tank puts the gas outlet in the front of the tank a little lower than the gas line when it is up a long side of the tank. If the gas outlet was positioned at the rear of the tank, it would work. If you notice, the stock line is routed with a sag in the line so it will completely drain the tank. The gas light is triggered when fuel stops coming through the tank gas line because of a thermistor, i believe it is called. The gas keeps the thermistor cool and the light is not illuminated. When the gas flow stops coming through the gas line the thermistor heats up and activates the reserve gas light. I am not sure i explained this good enough, but this is basically how it works.
 

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Nah, its not by much at all. Mine will, but just a bit. I have a chart somewhere around to compare sizes to rotation. I'll it it again.
 
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