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Thank you everyone who helped with questions and putting these instructions and parts together. Just completed my clean up and very happy with the results


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Thank you everyone who helped with questions and putting these instructions and parts together. Just completed my clean up and very happy with the results


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Looks great! Now time to cut down that engine mount! Or get a custom one from KyleNV.
If you really want to continue with the clean up, get the VBak from Churchkey, then coil relocation with plate from Akitadog, then LCV delete. Really shows off the front off the engine.

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Yes, either a shave or new mount from NV is on the list. I did a Churchkey VBAK as well, glad I did for the FPR relocation on the clean up

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I apologize in advance for the silly question but what is the purpose for the disconnect fitting in the middle of the line in front of the engine mount? It would seem that if you needed to remove the the tank, removing the line at the tank nipple would suffice. (yes, if there was fuel, then a plug would be needed but other than that, why?) The mod looks great but why the expense of the fittings?
 

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The Warrior comes stock with 2 quick disconnects on the tank so that the tank can be removed easily. A lot of members try to clean up the big ugly bracket that hangs off the motor mount which becomes visible when the stock engine cover is removed (big and bulky) and as such go to a custom drybreak and lines as well as moving the tps and removing all the left over brackets. Some go with a kylenv custom motor mount or they can modify their stock motor mount all this with the objective of cleaning up the side of the engine
 

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Thanks Christo K, I understand the overall purpose of the mods but just wondered if the second dry break was needed at all. I am planning a clean up and just wondered if all of that fitting work was necessary. Again, thanks for the explanation.
 

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I would say that the dry breaks are not an absolute necessity however on this bike you need to remove the tank to change your spark plugs and if you have the big air kit to service your air filters so it would be a pain to have to remove the fuel line from the nipple each time you want to remove the tank. it just makes things a lot easier
 

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I would say that the dry breaks are not an absolute necessity however on this bike you need to remove the tank to change your spark plugs and if you have the big air kit to service your air filters so it would be a pain to have to remove the fuel line from the nipple each time you want to remove the tank. it just makes things a lot easier
Good advice right there. Not to mention without the dry breaks you would need to drain the tank go remove it.

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Are you guys attaching the dry break to something or is it zip tied to the motor mount. That's the only part I'm missing. I have Kyle's mount on order. Just wondering how to secure the dry break.
 

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Are you guys attaching the dry break to something or is it zip tied to the motor mount. That's the only part I'm missing. I have Kyle's mount on order. Just wondering how to secure the dry break.


The back end of the hose is zip tied, the break floats


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Stellmon, thanks for the info! Bought connectors. Useful topic!

There is a question about the hose. The choice in the store I see three varieties. The simplest with pressure parameters is 35 bar; max pressure 140 bar. Nylon series. The second in steel braid, working pressure 69 bar; max pressure 345 bar. And the third option, again nylon, but the parameters are: working pressure 69 bar; max pressure 414bar.

In the metal sheath, I don’t like the look, the metal mesh is visible under the outer shell. But in two nylon differences for the price of 2 times. Is the 35 bar / max 140 bar enough for a warrior of hose parameters?
 

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What all does the kit include?
It's post #27, but here it is from that post:

-Two feet minimum of 8AN hose, I recommend more for a little margin of error when you cut.

-Jiffy-Tite 31608 (J) and 32608 (J) valved quick-disconnects with Viton seals. Adding J to the product number specifies all-black, otherwise they come in a black/gold finish.

-Two hose clamps for the tank fuel line. The hose is approximately 5/8" OD.

-5/16" FI rated fuel hose, to relocate the fuel pressure regulator.

-Four 5/16" FI rated hose clamps.

-Heat shrink to prevent any fraying of the cut braided hose ends. (Optional, but really nice if you used stainless braided line. Nylon braided line you can "melt" the ends).

-Two M5 x .8 nuts for the FPR.

-I highly recommend an 8AN assembly wrench or two, so you don't mar the fittings.
 
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