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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Everyone,

I just wanted to let everyone know of a major problem related to the set up of LED lights and the possible removal of your license plate light. Apparently, if you replace the front and rear signals with low resistance LEDs as well as remove the license plate light there is the possiblity that there is not enough resistance in the circuit to fully activate the shut down sequence upon turning off the ignition. This happened to me when I decided to go without a plate light when I removed the rear fender and resulted with my bike being in the shop for 3 weeks as the mechanics replaced every major electrical part trying to figure out why the bike would not fully shut down in some circustances (intermittent problem!!).

Luckily they covered the issue under warranty, but be warned of the potential headaches - DO NOT UNDERLOAD THE BLUE WIRE TO YOUR TAIL LIGHT ASSEMBLY!!

Hopefully this will save someone else from similar frustration on thier bike!!

Many thanks
Randy
 

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I know the frontrunning lights/ blinkers have that issue when swithching to LEDS but hooking up a small light or resister cap usually fixs that problem.. Theres alot here on the subject
 

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Randy, there is lots of unarchived press regarding this subject on the RSWarrior Forum such as Compression Release Solenoid clicking, Kill Switch, etc, etc.I suspect that you have eliminated the front running lights completely or never installed a load resistor to trick the computer?Anyway, happy to hear you solved your problems.I've done a fair amount of mods to my bike since joining RSW and commonly research the site before performing any of the modifications. Why redesign the wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hey Guys,

I have now done as you suggested and found a ton of info which would have saved me a ton of frustration and lost summer riding. Thank you for the advice - there is much more information on this site than I ever realized!!

Randy
 

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I haven't had a plate light for two years with no problems. But I have the MD Wright Integrator with a load resistor, plus I still have the stock front signals. I haven't changed the front signals because of hearing all the problems with clicking and fast blink rates.
 

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I too was gun shy with the front turn signals after researching the forum! Relocated and replaced my front lights but stayed with the dual filament 1157 bulb. Did the rears with LED's and even replaced the License Light with HID's without any problems, thanks to the Forum Who needs an excersize in futility when the riding season is short enough here in Michigan.
quote:Originally posted by doog

I haven't had a plate light for two years with no problems. But I have the MD Wright Integrator with a load resistor, plus I still have the stock front signals. I haven't changed the front signals because of hearing all the problems with clicking and fast blink rates.
 

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Why not ask here first, this has been covered a million and one times. It would seem that a good portion of members here have more knowledge of the bike than the dealers...
 

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I read the 4M before I got the bike and have been on a time or two since then. I NEVER use the kill switch. I have an integrated LED rear assembly and LEDS on the front, no license plate light and no load equalizer. I like the faster blink rate, no problems with shut down.
 

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I'm with you on not using the kill switch OldMan, I have the led's up front with load equalizers and a variable load flasher being used to control the blink as well as equalize the rear with the integrated turn signals and have no license plate light. The only time I get the clicking is if I shut the bike down and then put it in gear, I usually have to wait a minute before doing that.
 

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quote:Originally posted by DarkStar

Yes, there are a few of us who have experienced this many moons ago............


I believe it happend to me in Nov 2002 [/emoticons/emotion-5.gif]

As long as you turn off the ignition whil in neutral you are good either way.
 

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I am about to send off my stock tail light and move my tag to the side. With using the stock tail light is there any problems that I will have when I unplug the tag light? I could wire the tag light to the remount but will that fix the blinking and clicking prob. that some of the riders are having?
 

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I am about to send off my stock tail light and move my tag to the side. With using the stock tail light is there any problems that I will have when I unplug the tag light? I could wire the tag light to the remount but will that fix the blinking and clicking prob. that some of the riders are having?
You will not have any problems if you are using the stock front turn signal housings with the running lights operational.

If you have removed or changed the running lights you can install a small bulb in the headlight housing so the computer knows there is a complete circuit. Connect it to the blue running light wire & a ground. Or install a resister in the running light circuit.


 

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So i just did my tail clean-up and removed the rear fender with a fender eliminator kit. I put some short LED Turnsignals on the back (left the front stock for now), and I put LED license plate bolts in place for the plate lighting. I do have the fast rate flashing now on my bike.

I bought the LED Flasher relay from Lockhart Phillips, but havent put it in yet because i have had the time to locate that relay. Should i be worried at all? Do i need to locate and replace that relay, and are the LED bolts i put in for the plate and hooked up to the blue wire enough to satisfy that circuit?
 

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The turn signals & the running lights are 2 different electrical circuits & operate independently of each other.

You only need one incandescent bulb or resistor in the running light circuit to satisfy the computer & avoid the COD.

Do whatever is necessary to get the turn signals to operate at what you deem an appropriate flash rate.




 

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Just to make sure if i understand this correctly, as long as you keep the stock front turnsignals you no have issues? So my setup with the stock signals, and the LED plate light is fine?
 

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i have the LED tail with integrated turn signals (not sure of the brand) with stock front signals & i do infact experience the CLICK of DEATH (scary horror movie voice)
 
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