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Hmm, maybe I got a code from something else. I never went into diag to check so I just assumed it was from disconnection the lcv. Good to know and I'll edit the post.
Just so you know, i removed the plug end and taped it up also to clean things up under the tank. I don't know if that makes a difference or not, i don't think so, but just adding the info so you know the whole deal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Just so you know, i removed the plug end and taped it up also to clean things up under the tank. I don't know if that makes a difference or not, i don't think so, but just adding the info so you know the whole deal.
This end? You separated and kept it wired up?


Sent from Rudy Jeremias
 

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If its electrically connected it satisfies the ECU. Some simply pull the two smaller hoses off the intake ends and rubber nipple the intake connections. But its cleaner looking to remove as much as needed to meet your personal tolerance level. If the electrical head is retained then protect by taping it well.

That said, I like the device but I also like side air scoops and they happily cover the LCV up from the side view hanging under my coil relocation plate. If I did dump the LCV then I probably would use my BrakeAway cruise control for a minute on cold starts. But I like the higher-end-value it brings to the bike. I even have a spare lol.
 

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This end? You separated and kept it wired up?


Sent from Rudy Jeremias
No, I completely removed the LCV and the electrical plug end and taped up the wires that went to it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Well I've spend the last couple hours researching more about a code popping up if the lcv is completely removed. I have found most comments stating No code came up with the LCV removed off the bike.
I also found some saying a code did pop up but nothing proving the fact it was due to removing the LCV. Maybe those who have removed their LCV and got a code assumed it was from removal as I did but it actually being a code from something else.
Maybe those who have gotten a code from removal had earlier years like my 02'. But this last part is just assuming in which I'll test mine and check the code that I get If I get one.

I'll report my findings and update for informational purposes.

Sent from Rudy Jeremias
 

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And you still get no codes? Did you short across the plug? I've not seen no-codes with an empty plug before. Did I miss it?
I've never gotten a code from removing the LCV and didn't short across the plug, just taped the wires up individually and then taped the whole thing up to keep water from getting in there. Did the same thing to my best friends 04 warrior and no codes on his bike either.
 

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If the LCV is connected & malfunctions you will get a CEL.
If the LCV is unplugged you will not get a CEL.
 

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Okay. Lots of top dogs gotta be right. Nice to know Code 37 (Diag 10 and 54) are not going to trigger the CEL when the LCV is disconnected. That means the ECU throws codes into history is all. Okay. I will annotate my 6-13 accordingly.

Added: in another thread I see it will not throw a code either. Weird. But okay. Probably the prior Code 37 help requests were not due to a removed LCV. It is what it is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Ok, I reached under my tank and disconnected my LCV wiring connector since it's mounted under my Akitadog plate still. Well no code light popped up. Just had to verify with my bike since a code poped up the last time I ran without the LCV on the bike. With this I will assume my code that came up was probably a sensor on the Akitadog plate.


Sent from Rudy Jeremias
 

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This thread may have saved me some hair-pulling. I have been experiencing sluggish throttle response, excessive popping and very erratic idling for the last couple rides. I will be cleaning the LCV this weekend to see if it clears up.

This forum is a amazing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
This thread may have saved me some hair-pulling. I have been experiencing sluggish throttle response, excessive popping and very erratic idling for the last couple rides. I will be cleaning the LCV this weekend to see if it clears up.

This forum is a amazing.
Try the block off first. That should let you know if the LCV is at fault weather dirty or faulty. Then if it fixes the issue clean it and try again.

Rudy Jeremias (rij1)
 

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The linear control valve (LCV) is sort of like a choke but for fuel injected engines.
The linear control valve supplies air to the throttle bodies when starting or during engine warm up and causes higher idle Rpm's.
The intake air volume determines the basic injection duration. As the intake air increases through the linear control valve, the intake air volume corrects the basic injection duration.
The correction volume changes according to the position of the valve at starting and when the valve position changes to accommodate the engine temperature and engine oil temperature as the intake air volume increases.
When the engine oil temperature reaches 80 °C (176 °F) or higher, the linear control valve fully closes to stop the air volume from increasing and control returns to basic injection control.

Now, this part can cause some issues if the pintle seat (see pic) or the tapered pintle (see pic) develops build up to prevent the valve to fully close and let surfaces to seal.





It can also possibly develop a vac leak between the O-ring on the valve motor and the passage housing(see pic).



The motor can also fail all together and not function or properly function.

Either way these can cause a vac leak that can cause some issues you will chase and chase and may not find.
Some symptoms are Loss in power, Poor throttle responce, Excessive popping, Chugging lower Rpm's, Stumbling with throttle, Erratic idle, dying.



A way to quickly eliminate the LCV being the issue to vac leak symptoms is to remove the 2 smaller hoses off the LCV and plug them good making sure no air gets past. Make sure you see no cracks in the 2 hoses going to your throttle bodies before running the motor. (See pic)



If your symptoms go away or reduce you have a few options.
If you do not get a diag code-

1. Leave the LCV blocked off as testing by plugging the 2 hoses from the LCV.
2. Pull the 2 hoses off the throttle bodies and cap the nipples(with time the caps can crack and you'll develop a vac leak. (See pic)



If you have a vac leak issue through the LCV go to the cleaning process or block/remove the LCV.

NOTE FOR THE 2 OPTIONS ABOVE.(For testing and permanent)
You will now have to give some throttle while starting especially in colder weather and you'll have to hold the throttle to warm the engine up to keep it running.
Keep in mind that if you keep thw LCV this way as of Blocked, Capped and you go and try to sell your bike this new starting prosses may sway potential buyers away as it will look like the bike has issues.


To clean the LCV-
1. Set the hoses back on the LCV as normal set up and spray throttle body cleaner or Spray Seafoam through the Bigger inlet hose to the LCV while first start/starting for a few seconds. Have The bike run for a 5-10 seconds after you stop spraying. The valve closes quick so you will have to repeat that starting/spraying process over and over. The engine may be hard to run at first as that's what the cleaner will do so give it some throttle to keep it running. This may/may not help.
2. Remove the LCV and clean by hand with throttle body cleaner. Make sure you clean The pintle and pintle seat.
The O-ring may need a bit of silicon to help seal a vac leak so apply a thin coat and let dry while assembled.(may not be necessary)

If this cleaning does not fix the LCV vac leak the valve motor may have failed.

You can test the LCV pintle for movement (I WILL ADD THE INFO LATER AS I WANT TO TEST THE ON BIKE TEST FIRST)

((If anyone has anything to add or any input feel free to mention it and I'll adjust the posting))















Hi RJ...so if I want to eliminate the LCV I only have to block off or cap the two vacuum hoses from the LCV to the TB's. Does the thick rubber air inlet tube in the middle that goes to the airbox not need to be blocked off?
Thanks
Fred
 

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All pasts cleaned up








LCV Air Flow



Hi RJ...so to eliminate the LCV I only need to block off the 2 vacuum hoses from the LCV to the TB's? No need to block of the air inlet hose to the airbox?
Ps. Do the LCV's always end up failing and if so what is the average lifespan of the LCV?
 

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Hi RJ...so to eliminate the LCV I only need to block off the 2 vacuum hoses from the LCV to the TB's? No need to block of the air inlet hose to the airbox?
Ps. Do the LCV's always end up failing and if so what is the average lifespan of the LCV?
Are you still use your stock airbox? If so I believe you will need to block the entrance to the airbox or you will be letting unfiltered air into the airbox and then the engine.
 
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