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'05 Midnight
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Once again this site has proved itself most valuable. I threw the LCV code the other day and a quick search helped me solve the problem. Thanks!!!
DUDE!! Haven't seen you on here in a while! How's it going? One of the newest SoCal guys moved to Vegas recently. I'm sure you've seen him on here, @catchinganupshift! He's got a museum quality '04! Maybe you could help him put some miles on it. ;)
 

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'05 Midnight
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If I did dump the LCV then I probably would use my BrakeAway cruise control for a minute on cold starts.
As I was reading through this thread, this is the EXACT same idea I had after reading the o-ring tip. Which makes me seriously consider doing this mod, but with my stock exhaust on, I can CLEARLY hear the LCV working. For now, it's nice to know that my bike is telling me she's warmed up and ready. ;)
 

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Hi guys, first sorry for my slovak english hah, i have 03麓 warrior and a wanted lower idle like a boss but in the moment i was code 37 on my dashboard, i try set idle back and erase fault codes in dashboard diag but with no results code 37 in still with me :/ I have a feeling that the bike rides without problems, only a cold start is worse because lcv (choke) isn麓t working , help me somebody please
 

Premium Member
'05 Midnight
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Hi guys, first sorry for my slovak english hah, i have 03麓 warrior and a wanted lower idle like a boss but in the moment i was code 37 on my dashboard, i try set idle back and erase fault codes in dashboard diag but with no results code 37 in still with me :/ I have a feeling that the bike rides without problems, only a cold start is worse because lcv (choke) isn麓t working , help me somebody please
Hi, welcome!

These bikes need a specific minimum idle to be set. Factory setting is 850-950 rpm. If you set to a lower value, you will starve your engine of oil and your stator will not produce enough voltage and will cause lots of problems from under-voltage and under-current. Please make sure your warm idle is set to at least 850 rpm, ideally 900-950 rpm.
 

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@zvolensky98

It sound like you are saying the lcv worked before you reduced the rpm and then it stopped working even though you had raised rpm back up to specification. And code 37 still displays (and probably the yellow engine light).

Code 37 is lcv or can be the oil temperature sensor.
See service manual (usually page 6-28) for tests. Sometimes is just corrosion in a coupling.

The yellow check engine light will go out if it's fixed next time you start the bike. The code number might persist but should go out, try the reset button.

Do you already have the free e-copy of the service manual with both supplements?
 

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Hi, welcome!

These bikes need a specific minimum idle to be set. Factory setting is 850-950 rpm. If you set to a lower value, you will starve your engine of oil and your stator will not produce enough voltage and will cause lots of problems from under-voltage and under-current. Please make sure your warm idle is set to at least 850 rpm, ideally 900-950 rpm.

yeah i read full this forum, my warm idle is 900rpm but problem is still here
 

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@zvolensky98

It sound like you are saying the lcv worked before you reduced the rpm and then it stopped working even though you had raised rpm back up to specification. And code 37 still displays (and probably the yellow engine light).

Code 37 is lcv or can be the oil temperature sensor.
See service manual (usually page 6-28) for tests. Sometimes is just corrosion in a coupling.

The yellow check engine light will go out if it's fixed next time you start the bike. The code number might persist but should go out, try the reset button.

Do you already have the free e-copy of the service manual with both supplements?
Hi , yeah , my lcv worked before and yeah it displays yellow engine light , this is what angry me the most..

iam tested temperature sensor and engine temperature in diag sensor it looks like they are working properly, have approximately the same values

-i try check connector of oil temperature sensor yet

-yes i have owners manual

-and reset button when?
 

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@zvolensky98

It sound like you are saying the lcv worked before you reduced the rpm and then it stopped working even though you had raised rpm back up to specification. And code 37 still displays (and probably the yellow engine light).

Code 37 is lcv or can be the oil temperature sensor.
See service manual (usually page 6-28) for tests. Sometimes is just corrosion in a coupling.

The yellow check engine light will go out if it's fixed next time you start the bike. The code number might persist but should go out, try the reset button.

Do you already have the free e-copy of the service manual with both supplements?
sorry for mistakes .. and when I start, I hear the LCV valve set up and the same when i switch off the bike , i dost understand what is going on
 

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For now lets forget the reset button, first we need to make the yellow light go out. When it goes out, the code 37 should disappear too.

It sounds like your motor idles correctly. But on cold start the lcv does not increase idle rpm momentarily. So maybe you hold the throttle awhile.

It's likely that one of the lcv wires is damaged. Or an electrical coupling plug is corroded. Visually inspect starting at the lcv. Also, notice if the lcv itself is full or dirt or grease. It might be binding.

This is probably something simple to fix but hard to find.
 

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For now lets forget the reset button, first we need to make the yellow light go out. When it goes out, the code 37 should disappear too.

It sounds like your motor idles correctly. But on cold start the lcv does not increase idle rpm momentarily. So maybe you hold the throttle awhile.

It's likely that one of the lcv wires is damaged. Or an electrical coupling plug is corroded. Visually inspect starting at the lcv. Also, notice if the lcv itself is full or dirt or grease. It might be binding.

This is probably something simple to fix but hard to find.
lcv connector is fine, I cleaned it and measured the current and everything works fine, yes cold start is worde and I have to add gas for a while

i dont know where i looking for fault
 

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The LCV receives power via the ECU fuse as you know. That red/black Y's into two LCV input points. That powers the 'open' and the 'close' functions (negative polarity) depending on which circuit the ECU completes (ECU Pins 21, 22, 43, 44). See the manual for metering points.

I have my hands full right now. But I think testing at that black 6-wire-coupling tests for 12v on the (2) red/black but it omits testing the other 4 wires. So test those other 4 wires all the way to the ECU connector/plug by reading at the ECU connector pin-point. It's easy to unplug it, just be gentle off and back on.

If you look carefully with good illumination, you will see pin numbers molded into the ECU connector/plug. With the latch facing up, the top far right two pins should be 21 22. The bottom far right two pins should be 43 44. See manual before metering.

The LCV is a single valve device using stepper motor. The things you might see noting Valve1 and Valve2 are really just two different ECU parameters directed to the same valve motor. I think it might be First Start versus during warmup but it's been so long I can't remember.

Later.
 

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The LCV receives power via the ECU fuse as you know. That red/black Y's into two LCV input points. That powers the 'open' and the 'close' functions (negative polarity) depending on which circuit the ECU completes (ECU Pins 21, 22, 43, 44). See the manual for metering points.

I have my hands full right now. But I think testing at that black 6-wire-coupling tests for 12v on the (2) red/black but it omits testing the other 4 wires. So test those other 4 wires all the way to the ECU connector/plug by reading at the ECU connector pin-point. It's easy to unplug it, just be gentle off and back on.

If you look carefully with good illumination, you will see pin numbers molded into the ECU connector/plug. With the latch facing up, the top far right two pins should be 21 22. The bottom far right two pins should be 43 44. See manual before metering.

The LCV is a single valve device using stepper motor. The things you might see noting Valve1 and Valve2 are really just two different ECU parameters directed to the same valve motor. I think it might be First Start versus during warmup but it's been so long I can't remember.

Later.
I metering all off them, two 12V and other 4 into ecu too with beep voltmeter and I didn't find any interruptions
 

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Well, it's time to remove the LCV from the bike, disassemble it, and find out if there is a physical problem. If no physical problem, and no other error codes, then the stepper motor becomes a suspect.

Some members leave it off the bike. Cap the intake hose connection nipples with good quality rubber clamp-on caps.

Some find a used LCV from a member around here.

It's not common for it to fail.
But sometimes they do.
 

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Well, it's time to remove the LCV from the bike, disassemble it, and find out if there is a physical problem. If no physical problem, and no other error codes, then the stepper motor becomes a suspect.

Some members leave it off the bike. Cap the intake hose connection nipples with good quality rubber clamp-on caps.

Some find a used LCV from a member around here.

It's not common for it to fail.
But sometimes they do.
I've wanted to pick him out twice already, but there's a bad approach from below
 

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Disconnect the negative battery cable for 15 seconds then reconnect = ECU should return to default & turn off the check engine light.
Disconnecting the LCV should not trigger a 37 code many here run without the LCV I threw mine in the recycle bin about 20 years ago.
 

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the negative battery cable for 15 seconds then reconnect = ECU should return to default & turn off the check engine light.
Disconnecting the LCV should not trigger a 37 code many here run without the LCV I threw mine in the recycle bin about 20 years ago.
I choice this option first a meny times and nothing better
 

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Yep and the only way to disassemble it is to remove it. Try this. Remove the top fuel tank, and the stock silencer under-tank airbox if still installed. Remove the Left stock cover. Right stock cover if helpful. Remove one ignition coil if helpful. Remove LCV hoses from intakes, cover area with clean rags. Remove LCV body. It should take about 15 minutes.
 
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