hmmmmmmmmmmm. Maybe you could move..... Oh thats not one of the questions /emoticons/emotion-1.gif

The only disadvantage Ive heard about is in the handleing, If you go to low you will scrape. There are a number of kits available that are adjustable so you could sit your fender down on your rear tire if you choose to.

The kits range from around $100 to $800 for the air adjustable

 

check out the adjusable kit from www.cycleimage.com . I have it and like it a lot. YES, handeling is a disadvantage.

 

Observations from mine,
Adv: looks cool, you'll feel more secure being able to touch feet down, eaiser to roll it fowrward and especially back it up while sitting
Disadv: going over dips fast it bottoms out and screws under the rear fender have gouged my tires, can't lean as hard not only scrape pegs but the peg bracket and kick stand, if you plan to change exhaust heard some pipes will scrape (I still have the stock can)
From a safety standpoint advise getting it. For example I stopped on a slick street where there was a dip off to the side I think it would have tipped but I was able to push back b4 the center of grav went too far over and got more traction from being more flat footed than on toes.

 

i would recommend to lower the seat.
anyway: lowering is good for the look but bad for handling (lean angle)

 

I recommend the Orient Express kit. Its easy to install, and not to bad on the wallet. I don't think it bothered handling much either.

 

I have a nice barely used set I will sell if interested. $50 plus shipping.

 

I have the Broward Motor Sports version...I just posted this in another post, so sorry for being repetitive.

It's a change of the brackets or "dog bones" along side the shock and spring. Took about 45 minutes to do, but that was only because I put the wrong bolt on the front side, and couldn't find out why the bolt in the back was now too short. So after a cup of coffee, an email, and a few head scratches, I figured it out and was done in another 8-10 minutes.

DISADVANTAGE: There is always the issue of bottoming out the rear end with ANY lowering kit, so that has to be said.
ADVANTAGE: Under $150 from BMS. Adjusts to multiple heights - its a threaded rod, so you can turn the end to raise or lower the bike to customize it to what you want.
RULE OF THUMB ON THE ADJUSTMENT - in case no one else tells you - LONGER IS LOWER. If the dog bones are LONGER, the bike sits LOWER.

 

If money's a real issue, do a search on "flip and grind".

 

I have the CI lowering kit and I have it set to as low as you can go. I to also had the problem with the screws from the seat clamp gouging my tire, but since removing the screws and clamp (I use a Solo Seat), I have not had that problem. You will notice that the screws come out a 1/4 of an inch past the welded bolt head. I trimmed the screws with a Dremal and will put the clamp back on when I put a two seater back on. The 1/4 of an inch is just what the 100lb Eiback spring needs to keep you from hitting the bottom side of your fender.

 

Thanks for all the info guys, much appreciated......One other question, does the kit lower both back and front or do you just lower the back end... I am no expert but it looks like the back end is the only part lowered, am I correct... What do most people do.. Im in favour of only the rear end....

Also if I only lower by say 2 inches will that still affect the handling.

 

Lowering kits only affect the rear end. You can raise the forks in the tree just a bit to lower the front end slightly -- up to about an inch (if you don't have chrome fork covers).

2 inches is actually pretty much. You will see a handling difference.

 

The kits only do the back end. There are various other ways you can lower the front end also, the simplest being to drop the top triple tree down the an inch or two, the next more expensive, replacing the triple trees with a raked one to bring out the front tire Hence dropping the front...and then the most expensive and probably hardest to do...Cut the neck and re-weld the Aluminum Frame. I Don't recommend this last option unless you know how to weld Aluminum. I personally would never cut the Frame...I do no have this talent to weld aluminum....**** I don't have the talent to Weld anything!

 

You could also replace the springs in the forks to lower the front end.

 

I have a 30 inch inseam and used the PCS lowering kit. I also put on an Eibach 1000lb spring while in there. It is pretty easy to do and helped alot. Without the spring, you will bottom out occasionally. I haven't had any handling issues but maybe I just don't drive so hard. Hope this helps.

 

Thanks again... you have answered all my questions.. will do my homework.... thanks....

 

I have the flip and grind, upside it's free and drops the rear about 2.5inches. The downside is if you take too much off the relay arm it could snap at speed and you will die. It's free though [/emoticons/emotion-2.gif]

 

quote:Originally posted by saylor01

I have the flip and grind, upside it's free and drops the rear about 2.5inches. The downside is if you take too much off the relay arm it could snap at speed and you will die. It's free though [/emoticons/emotion-2.gif]


EEK! [:0] I think I will go with replacement dog bones [/emoticons/emotion-4.gif]

JT

 

LOL.