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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Manual Choke after LCV removal (final setup)

Well the weekend started ok, just doing some routine maintenance like oil change, airfilter clean and general check over. Then when I started the bike the same thing happened again as a few weeks ago. LCV got jammed on and no amount of reving it or tapping the little ******* would solve the problem. I have had an intemitant fault on it for awhile now and this time I just got the sh*ts. Planned on unplugging it as one of the boys down here suggested but made no difference so I removed it completely. Wasn't happy with having to hold the throttle while it goes through warmup so wired in a small electric solenoid valve to a switch so as to bleed air in on start up and then switch off once the revs come up. The valve is a little to small as it only allows 1cc @4psi flow and manages to raise the RPMs about 200rpm. A bigger valve would be better and then restrict the flow to acheive the correct rpms. But saying that it works ok and makes cold starting a dream. The switch is lit so will remind me to deactivate it before taking off. I have only done a rough install presently but will post some photos in the next few days after testing. Hope this is of interest for you guys that have removed your LCV's and get sick of waiting for it to idle.

Heff
 

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Very creative.......I removed mine and our weather is moderate so it is usually no problem.

If it becomes one, sounds like a good way to manage.

Please do post pics and PN's.....good on ya!!!
 

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Interesting, I bought a Roadstar choke cable to do much the same thing manually But haven't installed it yet (lazy) Do you have any pic's?
 

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That is a cool idea, you are a pioneer! I'm also real interested in pics of what you end up using long-term (bigger valve etc) including your switch solution, and maybe part numbers for them!

Well the weekend started ok, just doing some routine maintenance like oil change, airfilter clean and general check over. Then when I started the bike the same thing happened again as a few weeks ago. LCV got jammed on and no amount of reving it or tapping the little ******* would solve the problem. I have had an intemitant fault on it for awhile now and this time I just got the sh*ts. Planned on unplugging it as one of the boys down here suggested but made no difference so I removed it completely. Wasn't happy with having to hold the throttle while it goes through warmup so wired in a small electric solenoid valve to a switch so as to bleed air in on start up and then switch off once the revs come up. The valve is a little to small as it only allows 1cc @4psi flow and manages to raise the RPMs about 200rpm. A bigger valve would be better and then restrict the flow to acheive the correct rpms. But saying that it works ok and makes cold starting a dream. The switch is lit so will remind me to deactivate it before taking off. I have only done a rough install presently but will post some photos in the next few days after testing. Hope this is of interest for you guys that have removed your LCV's and get sick of waiting for it to idle.

Heff
 

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Forgot what I was gonna say hef ??? I just looked at your avatar....doh

yes, great idea.

Gav.
 

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Uh, how cold are we talking about here that it won't idle on its own? I've never had a problem down to 55 degrees. Twist throttle slightly, start bike, hold for 5-10 seconds and walk away while I put on gear, return to ride warm bike. Never have had a problem in two years of doing it this way.

Regardless, I am interested to see some pics of what you came up with. It is a pretty cool thought to come up with for sure.
 

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Very creative.......I removed mine and our weather is moderate so it is usually no problem.

If it becomes one, sounds like a good way to manage.

Please do post pics and PN's.....good on ya!!!
Same here - with no LCV I've NEVER had a problem with starting cold - but am curious to see how this works.
 

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Good Idea, I had considered installing a manual bleed valve so I could adjust the cold idle speed if it needed it. Yours solution is more elegant. With my hot idle speed at 1K RPM's I have not needed to do this. Bike will idle slow when cold, but will stay running to warm up.
 

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Necessity is the mother of invention, and you have birthed a great idea. I'm thinking of the old magnavox slogan. "Smart, very Smart"
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks guys,
Been working up north and haven't had time to take some pic's. Will send some today or after the ride this weekend. It's pretty simple really just a manual bleed valve but works like majic. I will dig out part numbers and post those too. FYI new Avitar coming soon ( hope shes pretty like the last one)

Heff
 

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Nice mod.....I recently mounted a switch behind the rear jug. I wanted to see if it would get too hot. It seems to be fine and could be a nice way to rid yourself of the wires and external bracket.

The switch is mounted on the plastic portion of the side cover so drilling a hole was easy (I used a step bit). My switch sticks a good inch inside with no interference with the aux tank and/or hoses.



Thanks for posting this. I have also removed my lcv and think this could help during the winter....(well it is the bay area, so we really don't get too cold but help none the less.....)
 

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Heff ... it's difficult to see the revised plumbing (hoses & fittings) but it looks like you have the front & rear throttle bodies connected to a common tee that branches to the normally closed solenoid valve???

The factory LCV isolates the throttle bodies (TB's) to prevent feedback during the enrichment cycle.

Can you elaborate on your modification as cross connecting the TB's is not recommended.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Heff ... it's difficult to see the revised plumbing (hoses & fittings) but it looks like you have the front & rear throttle bodies connected to a common tee that branches to the normally closed solenoid valve???

The factory LCV isolates the throttle bodies (TB's) to prevent feedback during the enrichment cycle.

Can you elaborate on your modification as cross connecting the TB's is not recommended.
You are correct Alan I have used a T piece that joins both throttle vaccum tubes and plumbed direct to bleed valve. Because it was a quick fix at the moment I only used the one valve. To do it right I think a second small valve would be better and plumb them seperately but switch them together. For the small time it is on I'm not worried at the moment as it was to prove it would work first. Thanks everyone for your thoughts and support on this as it seems a few people have had the same issues.
Heff
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Heff … it's nice to see new ideas such as yours, after so many years, and is one of the reasons I still participate :)
Thanks Alan, I decided that I would spend the time this afternoon and try the second solenoid valve on the seperated throttle vacuum lines. They switch together and because only one line to each valve the rev's have increased a little better, around 300 rev's between switched off and on.
Major success now I can permanently pipe it in.

heff
 
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