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Discussion Starter #1
So I get an idea in my head and I just can't let it go so here is the beginnings of my manual "LCV"

Getting all the parts together just to get to this was not easy, many different kind of valves out there don't know if this is going to be hard to mount But we will see what happens, I think I can extend a lever on it so that it'll sneak out from behind the left side air scoop.
I'm on vacation so I need and a project And it's raining like crazy now So I'm not looking to do any Winter rides until it dries up.

Heading up to Lake taho Friday morning the snow is freaking crazy this year already got 160in
At the top Sierra at Tahoe??

Anyways I think this project will work fine just not sure how it's going to mount.
 

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Just a heads up: If you forget to close the valve the bike will go way lean when hot = melted slugs.

The stock LCV is basically a stepper motor design continually closing dependent on oil temp rise with a by pass for momentary application during hot engine restarts.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Just a heads up: If you forget to close the valve the bike will go way lean when hot = melted slugs.

The stock LCV is basically a stepper motor design continually
closing dependent on oil temp rise with a by pass for momentary application during hot engine restarts.
Well understood and I did already think of that.?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
And I'm pretty sure I would noticed the 2000 rpm idle when I came to my 1st stop???
 

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Just my thoughts: The factory LCV isolates the throttle bodies (TB's) to prevent feedback/short circuit when the LCV is Fully Closed.
Your plumbed Tee & shut-off valve will not eliminate the short circuit between TB's. I suspect that this will affect your idle/synch but I've been wrong before.

When the LCV fails in a partially or full open position it also induces fresh air, through the filtered intake port of the LCV, which differs from your intended MOD so this should be interesting.

During the enrichment cycle (High Idle) there isn't an issue that the TB's are cross connected through the filtered intake port of the LCV or your MOD.
Note: You're going to need a controlled orifice for Max Idle RPM or use the valve handle to control the opening
 

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What are the benefits of a manual lcv vs the factory unit? I've never understood why people remove them in the first place.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #7
This is just something that I have to try Don't think it will act much different than the factory valve the only difference is I will be making sure it's closed And not wondering if it's closed. I'm perfectly fine with using the cruise control right now works great.
 

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Church is correct... I'm using a solenoid valve on mine. I wired in a flashing led mounted on the tach, to remind me.

Alan is correct... There will be a cross-flow problem the way you have it plumbed. I didn't notice an issue with idle stability. It will cause big time " pipe pOp " on decel. I solved that problem with a pair of check valves.
 

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What are the benefits of a manual lcv vs the factory unit? I've never understood why people remove them in the first place.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
I removed mine when I relocated my coils under the tank because I wanted to clean up the look of the front cylinder. It was purely aesthetic for me, I know other people who have removed them because they've had failures of them and didn't want to pay I put a new one in.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 
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