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Discussion Starter #1
I am thinking about doing some engine mods this winter. I've got an 02 and I already have the HC pistons (Patrick Racing) and VBAK. What I'm thinking about is the Patrick Racing cams and headwork with the bigger valves. What I want to know is if anyone else has done this, do you have numbers (HP & TQ) from this. I am trying to justify the cost. Any thoughts on this or any other possible mods, such as bigger injectors and fuel pressure regulator, etc., would be appreciated.
 

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Can I suggest doing the crank, instead of port work. It's about the same money, but you'll be amazed at the acceleration above 3000. I had Falicon in Florida do it. They took 6 lbs. off the crank. I have not done head work or cams, yet. I have a BAK, and 10.5 pistons. I run just faster than my Dads M109r. And I have a 250 tire on the bike. Keep us informed on what you do, and how you like it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
They took 6 pounds off? How much does the crank weigh anyway? I was hoping not to go into the bottom end. Is what you're saying that the engine "spools up" faster?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Would this affect the engine's balance? Would you need to send the entire rotating assembly for balancing? Any ideas on the cost of this work?
 

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I did all the work. It cost about 800 with the freight. You only need the paper gaskets. Not the steel ones. About 30 bucks for those. The crank in these is really heavy. 45.5 lbs. If you take rods and pistons to a machine shop, they can weigh them. You need rods weighed at both ends. Falicon will take those numbers over the phone and balance. Balance was included in that price. The bike runs like a scalded dog from 3000, now. It is smoother at cruising speeds. Between 80 and 125 mph is play time in 5th gear. I ran an R1 at 90 mph in a 5th roll on, and he had to down shift to out run me. I was really concerned about wrecking the drivability of this bike, when I sent the crank. Ya know, vibrations, and jerky acceleration. Well, let me put those concerns to bed. The bike is a little more throttle touchy, but below 2500 rpm, you can't really tell it was done. I've put 3000 miles on since I put it back together, and I would highly recomend this mod to every one.
 

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Arizona Warrior said:
When the rotating mass is reduced by lightening the crank, there is also less inertia to keep it rotating. This means when you let off the throttle is slows down much faster on its own without braking,is that correct, or no?
Yes, but it's nothing you won't get used to in the first few minutes of ridding. When you let off the throttle, and pull the clutch, when the engine is cold, it will stall some times. Again, you'll figure a little different ridding style, and avoid it. The changes in lower rpm are very subtle. The 6 lbs, has a great effect at rpm. As it turns into tons of rotating mass. Example; A bullet laid on you chest is grams, But fired out of a gun, hits with hundreds of lbs of impact force. So low rpm isn't as affected.
 

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You should do a topic about this process, what you did and what the vendor did and how it disassembled and reassembled, and talk about some of these positive differences. I bet a bunch of guys would do that when the motor is apart anyway, if they knew what to plan for in advance. You could use views from the Star parts website in place of many pictures, such as [outdated attachment deleted, see Warrior parts manual or Star parts website for Pistons and Crank illustration].
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just bringing this post for comment again. Any comments about bigger injectors and/or fuel pressure increases?
 

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Mustfire said:
Just bringing this post for comment again. Any comments about bigger injectors and/or fuel pressure increases?
The only reason for bigger injectors is; forced induction...ie. turbo, or super charger. Increasing fuel pressure isn't nesessary for any street application. The pc III will handle fuel curv, and the stock injectors will handle most fuel requirements. Some guys have bought the bigger injectors, and the performance ecu from yamaha. I would however look at the timming module from dynojet instead. Both will give you a 500 rpm gain over the stock ecu. If you get aftermarket cams, you'll want to do one or the other. Everything I've seen shows the stock injectors will cary enough for most applications.
 

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where in florida is falicon located? i'm down here and wouldnt mind paying them a visit to talk shop
Ross said:
Can I suggest doing the crank, instead of port work. It's about the same money, but you'll be amazed at the acceleration above 3000. I had Falicon in Florida do it. They took 6 lbs. off the crank. I have not done head work or cams, yet. I have a BAK, and 10.5 pistons. I run just faster than my Dads M109r. And I have a 250 tire on the bike. Keep us informed on what you do, and how you like it.
 

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southboundchicken said:
where in florida is falicon located? i'm down here and wouldnt mind paying them a visit to talk shop
Ross said:
Can I suggest doing the crank, instead of port work. It's about the same money, but you'll be amazed at the acceleration above 3000. I had Falicon in Florida do it. They took 6 lbs. off the crank. I have not done head work or cams, yet. I have a BAK, and 10.5 pistons. I run just faster than my Dads M109r. And I have a 250 tire on the bike. Keep us informed on what you do, and how you like it.
Clearwater...let us know what you find out.
 
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