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Discussion Starter #1
As some of you know, my Warrior modification process started.
The planned schedule is:


1. Complete electrical system restoration
2. 280 tirekit (done by G&S Cycles)
3. Custom front and rear fender (done by Montreal Choppers)
4. Paint job (done by Montreal Choppers)
5. Several cosmetical enhancements


I want to post a special thank you to Manny at Montreal Choppers who not only gave great advice related to the overall bike design but also offered an impecable customer service. Don't hesitate to call his shop and ask how he can fully service your Harley or any other bike, you will not be dissapointed. Just tell him Floren (the Warrior guy) refered you, he will take good care of your bike on every aspect.


I will post pictures with the work in progress. For now, you will have to enjoy how my Warrior looks stripped.









Tuesday, May 19 2009


The 280 kit and 2 blue lighted skulls are installed... the challenge was to make both skulls sit at the same height.
Carlini bars installed, as well the levers matching the forward controls.
Dyna coils installed to original location. No way to have them fitted onto the AkitaDog's plate...
LowandMean fairing scoop installed temporary, will be removed for painting.


Note: A little left of the electrical wires still shows for the vertical side plate...










Monday June 1st, 2009


Barnett SR-2 clutch conversion kit installed (red springs).












Friday July 31, 2009




Finally, the rear fender is finished. It matched the budget I fixed myself for it. Because it is a custom chopper shop, for sure it is not cheap. However, it is worth every penny to me. The attention to detail and how well the fender was fabricated is simply superb. Really happy with the final result.




Work in progress, note the precise measurements on each step. The Tricky Air Ride is lowered:










This is how the final fender looks, with the Tricky up:








Side view, with the Tricky lowered:





The final product with the Tricky up. I will ride my bike a lot lower then this:





The electrical wiring is well designed and thepointed tip is alsoreinforced.
Aset of Radiantz LED stripswill be fitted in the back as stop light, beside the blinkers who run as R/T/B:








Friday November 6, 2009


The gas tank was streched. I'm very happy with the end results (see large pictures):








The FatKatz 13gauge front fender is already in the shop, ready to be worked on.
It was custom cut to a 5.5" width to fit perfectly the stock Warrior tire(see large pictures):





The image you see below give the impression there is no space in between the fender and suspension arms.
Actually there is plenty of space, the camera angle made look like that:








April 10th 2010


The parts started to be painted. This is the first stage paint, black with 3 clear coats:






I will have a local painter do the airbrush with true blue fire, followed by another 3 clear coats, for a thick "candy like" finish.
It is unfortunate Dennis (WashingtonWarrior) was busy, I recommend everyone to see him for a paint job.


This is how the tank bolts are installed, using the stock bracket:






The marks you see is resine from the seat mold, not scratches.

The custom seat construction started also. A custom bracket needed to be fabricated, in order to relocate the lock:







Also, the front fender is nearly completed.
I still need to have the front of the fender adjusted to match the rear design (notice the red marks):





But this is how the overall design will look, beside the chopped front pointer:







Notice the nice bracket design, it looks like it was build for Warrior, straight from the factory.
Sebastian, the Montreal Choppers machinist, did an amazing job to fit the fender like a stock one:









April 12th, 2010


Ipurchasedfrom eBay an very rare Dyna coil mount, clean with no ignition holes ($100):





That means I will move the coils on the side, behind the existing skull. The blue LED's I have now installed will make the coils look great at night. For the right hand side, I decided to remove the skull and install a DM air filter, just for looks. Inside the filter, I will house the Tricky air ride compressor. It is the only viable location that is protected from bad weather. From my volume calculations, the compressor will fit nice inside. We will actually to a quick test at the shop and see how the fitting goes. The air filter will be waterproofed on the inside, so the actual look is kept intact.


This is what I plan to install on the right side:





I like the idea that the cone is half way closed, so I need to do less waterproofing.





April 30th, 2010



More parts were fabricated and painted. After much thought and deliberation, I decided to stick with a very clean paint: black. Montreal Choppers have their own custom glossy black and it looks really nice on all the choppers they build. I'm super happy how the front and rear fender came out, once they were painted. Don't mind the finger prints, the paint has to be buffed in order to get the glossy look:
(see the entire front fender process)








The rear fender is not installed yet because the stays are being chromed. The fender was cut to fit perfectly the Warrior body:
(see the entire rear fender process)










This is how the electrical wiring is to be installed under the fender (metal pipes are welded):






This is how the Dyna coils bracket was installed:





The coils have no polarity. Both coils have a Black/Red wire in the harness. I will install the B/R wires to the connectors located near the chromed bracket:






The skull will be installed on top of it. If you notice, I placed the coils with the wiring down because I don't want to have exposed any wires. I'm still looking for some blue wires that will do the job. So far, I found the Taylor coil wire repair kit that I like for its intense blue color that will match the LED lights.






Thursday, May 13, 2010



The internal frame and handlebar wiring is almost done. This is where the frame neck was punctured:
(see the entire wiring process)













You are probably wondering why I decided to punch a hole into right side of the neck, instead of a central position, like everyone else. The answer is simple: in the current position, the wires are positioned almost straight inside the neck, allowing a very minimal contact with the actual axle. On top of that, a double plastic sleeve was used, reducing the risk of wire damage to zero.



I plan to install on the winter season a Headwinds 7" Vampire headlight that will be mounted in a way to fit the existing tacho on top, like the original part. For now, a hole was punched into existing headlight, to accomodate the wiring:







The Vampire headlight has a pointed bezel design, very similar to current front/rear fenders:





I believe that will enhance even further the overall bike look, without actually modifying the original design. The great part about this headlight is that is offered in polished aluminium also, not just chrome. That will allow me to cut the necessary holes on it (as well the rear of it), in order to fit the tacho on top. As I mentioned before, my goal is to keep the front racks stock. I love the current design very much and how the bike is handling.





Thursday June 11, 2010


All the parts are installed on the bike. There is still minor work on certain electricals, like for example connecting the blue LED lights behind the coils and air cleaner, as well building the custom seat.
So far, this is the overall look of my Night Demon project (see large pictures of all images listed below):





Here you can see the installed Dyna coils. Also notice the new location of the Ferracci dry break:
(the LED wire still needs to be attached and hidden behind)






This is how the D&M air cleaner was installed:





In order to accomodate the tank design, a new bracket needed to be fabricated to reposition the seat lock:






This is how the rear end lights look installed:





Once done, it will probably take me all day to clean the Night Demon and remove all that dust accumulated from over one year.





Thursday July 15, 2010



The seat pan is fabricated, all what is left is to cover it with black leather and do the flame embroideries:
(see large images of all pictures listed below)








What I like about the design is how well the seat contour follows the bike. The pointed tail was cut to match perfectly the fender rear.





Friday, August 7, 2010


The oil coolers are finally installed. I used a 20mm thread Mocal sandwich, controlled by a thermostat at 180degrees. Special thanks to Reza at CycleImage for giving me a discount on the coolers, because I did not purchased his Barons sandwich. I really wanted to get a Mocal, they are the most reliable thermostat controlled sandwiches.To avoid the extra plumbing and avoid any oil flow blockage, the original BSP ports were machined to fit a standard straight AN fitting. I used the 3/8" Rusell lines that came with Reza's kit:
(see large images of all pictures listed below)











The front of the bike will be covered by the scoop, so nobody will see the "lose" cooler brackets at the bottom.
I don't know why the collers look crooked in the pic, they are perfectly aligned in real life:








Friday, August 14, 2010


I tried (without much success) to record how I setup the rear electrical, as well the LEDfast blinkingon my Warrior.

In the video: Manny (shop owner), Joe, Nelson and myself, at Montreal Choppers shop.








TODO
- Minor electrical adjustments
- Front brake lines to redo
- Custom seat to build
- Clean and polish the bike to make it showroom ready
 

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Hey Teck ...noticed one of those quite small lifts under the girl...do you feel good lifting her on that!!?..interested in one if you're ok with it!!?..any does and don't s when using one?
 

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I hope you'll add the progress pic here 'cause I'd like to check back and see yourstep-by-step success! Its gonna look hot!


TECK said:
As some of you know, my Warrior modification process started.
The planned schedule is:
TECK said:
1. Complete electrical system restoration
2. 280 tirekit with custom fender (done by G&S Cycles)
3. Several cosmetical enhancements
4. Blue flames full paint job



I will post pictures with the work in progress.
 

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best of luck! But I gotta ask, why at the beginning of the riding season? Any idea on how long it will take and when you can get rolling again?

BTW, I agree on the Sears Pro jack - I have the same one!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
mdfdwarrior said:
best of luck! But I gotta ask, why at the beginning of the riding season? Any idea on how long it will take and when you can get rolling again?
It is actually simple. Most important reason: Cash, heh. Second, I wanted to go with a custom fender and a 280 kit. That takes longer to build.I don't care if it is the riding seaon, I will have plenty of time to ride my Warrior for years... Those are major changes to the bike so after that pretty much all the minor things can be done off season. I expect to have everything ready (bike ridable) by the end of May. Then another week to do the paint...


What is important: I got everything paid (finally no more debts related to the bike)... and the 280 kit is superb.


The custom fender (12 gauge badass) will be cut with a unique shape, pointed at the end and reinforced... hard to explain, you will see the pictures. The Carlini bars are already installed, I need to order the Barnett/Galfer stainless cables. They need an extra inch, not two, asI thought. Thank God I waited, before I installed the bars. Also, the electrical is almost completed... I need to find the **** Tricky compressor. I had it in the house, dusing winter. It was all rusted, so I clean it nice and painted. I was looking for it yesterday everywhere and I cannot find it. I hate those things, when they happen... I just hope my ex-wife did not throw it out, she was good at those things.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Next on the TODO list:
- Replace all cables with Barnett and Galfer (hydraulics also)
- Rebuild the Tricky pneumatics, with compressor located on AkitaDog's plate
- Start building the rear fender
- Chrome the rear caliper
- Install Kuryakyn halogen lights
- Internal wiring
- Paint
 

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Discussion Starter #12
If you look carefully, you will notice that a PR BAK + Krank vent is already installed.

Guys, I need a side cover (left that covers the reserve tank). The one I have is destroyed by a hole the previous owner did for the Tricky ride switch. PM me if you have one in great condition. I will also post it into Wanted forum.
 

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Too bad you couldn't make the new coils fit on Akitadog's plate. It does work with Churchkey's V-BAK. With your former interest i would of thought for sure you would go that way. So far your bike is looking sweet. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks! I'm excited also! I actually like it better this way (dyna's). :)
I will use the free space to install the Tricky compressor onto plate. So the space is not lost.


Eventually, I will ask Akita to make me a custom plate with a special cut for the compressor.
 

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Great updates...and the pics are awesome.
I have a couple of questions:
Why do you have to replace the electrical system?
I have heard you say (a couple of times) that you couldn't get the Dyna coils in the Akita's plate, but, others have done it, is there something on your bike that is getting in the way (I have the Akita's plate and am ready to pull the trigger on the coils)?
aren't you worried about the engine heat getting to the compressor?

FWIW, you can get a temp plug for the hole side cover and ride it until you get a replacement...it comes on and off pretty easily. (You can replace the security bolt w/ one of off of the belt guard)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
You can use Akita's plate but you will need 0.4" spacers to lift the coils. Everything is very very tight. Plus my goal was to install the compressor there. Yes, you are right about the engine heat and humidity. I simply do not want to install the compressor under the seat and create again a pure mess like it was before. Search for my posts and you will is what pure disaster was the electrical system from previous owner. I simply wanted to have everything brand new... electrical is so important for a bike. This is what I had under the seat (click on the picture to expand):





About the side plate, ya. I will follow your advice. I still need one, because the side plates will be painted. After more thought, I decided not to chrome the rear caliper. I talked to Eric from GS Cycles he told me that the chrome will come off after a while, plus some of the calipers leak, once chromed. Anyways, I have plenty of more important things to do before the chroming of the rear caliper.
 

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TECK said:
You can use Akita's plate but you will need 0.4" spacers to lift the coils. Everything is very very tight. Plus my goal was to install the compressor there. Yes, you are right about the engine heat and humidity. I simply do not want to install the compressor under the seat and create again a pure mess like it was before. Search for my posts and you will is what pure disaster was the electrical system from previous owner. I simply wanted to have everything brand new... electrical is so important for a bike. This is what I had under the seat (click on the picture to expand):





About the side plate, ya. I will follow your advice. I still need one, because the side plates will be painted. After more thought, I decided not to chrome the rear caliper. I talked to Eric from GS Cycles he told me that the chrome will come off after a while, plus some of the calipers leak, once chromed. Anyways, I have plenty of more important things to do before the chroming of the rear caliper.

Looks Great! Yes you are right about the rear caliper I decided to get them powder coated just to give them a nice clean look.
 

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Looks great Teck! What kind of grips are those? I've been looking for ones to match my pegs.
 
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