You can use Akita's plate but you will need 0.4" spacers to lift the coils. Everything is very very tight. Plus my goal was to install the compressor there. Yes, you are right about the engine heat and humidity. I simply do not want to install the compressor under the seat and create again a pure mess like it was before. Search for my posts and you will is what pure disaster was the electrical system from previous owner. I simply wanted to have everything brand new... electrical is so important for a bike. This is what I had under the seat (click on the picture to expand):
About the side plate, ya. I will follow your advice. I still need one, because the side plates will be painted. After more thought, I decided not to chrome the rear caliper. I talked to Eric from GS Cycles he told me that the chrome will come off after a while, plus some of the calipers leak, once chromed. Anyways, I have plenty of more important things to do before the chroming of the rear caliper.
That is a **** mess....i'll try to get a pic of mine up...I have the compressor and other stuff under the seat, It ain't perfect, but, it looks pretty close.
Guys, I need your help. I cannot find anymore the link where it explains how to align the rear pulley with the rear wheel so they match perfectly. Right now, you see they are offset a little.I can't believe I completly forgot about this issue...
i thought it was as simple as unbolting it, clocking it, then resecuring it ?? but then again its been a long time since i have messed with the stock wheels
More work was done on fender. It is not painted, just got a black primer.
The Raider luggage rack is installed and can be easily swapped with a Corbin passenger seat that matches the Hollywood Solo.
You can notice that some tubes were welded on the side. They are neded to keep in place the wires that will hook the LED's following the rear end contour. Some reinforcement needs to be added also. In this way, the pointed part will not bend by accident.
Looking reallygood .... but i'm not sure what your motivation is to use the Barnett Red coil springs with your current engine components unless you're wanting to do wheelies with a 30T frt pulley and the 280 tire
Looking reallygood .... but i'm not sure what your motivation is to use the Barnett Red coil springs with your current engine components unless you're wanting to do wheelies with a 30T frt pulley and the 280 tire
To my knowledge, red springs are recommended if you run on a 260+ tire? I read that somewhere in the forums. Other users reported that the red springs are not bad at all, once you get used to the tension... Also, the red springs pull about as hard as the Stage IV springs, as feeling comparison (correct me if I'm wrong). I'm going to do some forearm exercises for the increased "load". If I really don't like it, I will go for green springs... once I kill my left arm.
Looking reallygood .... but i'm not sure what your motivation is to use the Barnett Red coil springs with your current engine components unless you're wanting to do wheelies with a 30T frt pulley and the 280 tire
To my knowledge, red springs are recommended if you run on a 260+ tire? I read that somewhere in the forums. Other users reported that the red springs are not bad at all, once you get used to the tension... Also, the red springs pull about as hard as the Stage IV springs, as feeling comparison (correct me if I'm wrong). I'm going to do some forearm exercises for the increased "load". If I really don't like it, I will go for green springs... once I kill my left arm.
Really? I thought it is important to have equally distributed pressure in all springs to balance the SR-2 plate.
You probably used green, yellow, green, yellow, green, yellow combination. IMO, I think is best to stick with one color, everywhere. Curious what others say, on that issue.
To my knowledge, red springs are recommended if you run on a 260+ tire? I read that somewhere in the forums. Other users reported that the red springs are not bad at all, once you get used to the tension... Also, the red springs pull about as hard as the Stage IV springs, as feeling comparison (correct me if I'm wrong). I'm going to do some forearm exercises for the increased "load". If I really don't like it, I will go for green springs... once I kill my left arm.
Really? I thought it is important to have equally distributed pressure in all springs to balance the SR-2 plate.
You probably used green, yellow, green, yellow, green, yellow combination. IMO, I think is best to stick with one color, everywhere. Curious what others say, on that issue.
Alan, what do you recommend me to do now? Stick with the red springs or go for green or yellow ones (in the future)?
I really hate those stupid complications, because my lack of reading the information available into forums.
You’re already committed to the red springs so just see how you like the action! To R&R themisn’t a big deal at all. My comment is solelybased on a comparison between my bike and 357WARRIOR's that has the Speed*diaphragm spring and to enlighten you that the Metz 280/35 isn't thattall of a tire.
Here's a query "red springs" and maybe you'll feel better
Nice work so far Floren....the Carlini bars look great and I can't wait to seethe completed bikeonce your finished!
I'm interested in what you have planned for the rear end? I believe that in Canada, you have to comply with a rear mounted number plate and lighting set up, similar to what we have in the UK? Since your installing a custom fender on the bike, how will you acheive this...? Arecontoured LED's ok touse in Canada...?
Right now, I'min the process of widening thestock fender on my bike to accomodate the 280, butI've also justbought a 13'' wide, 14 guage custom fender from the states that I might chop to suit, if I can find a legal rear end set-up that will look good and still take a passenger seat......
Anyway, good luck with the project and keep us all updated...
Well, I always thought the red springs will make it a little harder to pull the lever, while giving a more precise clutch control. But you scared me when you asked if I want to do wheelies with a 30T frt pulley and the 280 tire. Can you explain what I expect to get as riding experience, if you compare the red springs to yellow ones for example? Thanks.
Nice work so far Floren....the Carlini bars look great and I can't wait to seethe completed bikeonce your finished!
I'm interested in what you have planned for the rear end? I believe that in Canada, you have to comply with a rear mounted number plate and lighting set up, similar to what we have in the UK? Since your installing a custom fender on the bike, how will you acheive this...? Arecontoured LED's ok touse in Canada...?
The rear will look like that (lights, plate disposition, etc.):
The Kuryakyn blinkers are hooked into a R/T/B, so they can also act as running lights. The leds will light-up only when you break. The plate will be a vertical one. It has the legal red light, as well it illuminates the plate.
Well, I always thought the red springs will make it a little harder to pull the lever, while giving a more precise clutch control. But you scared me when you asked if I want to do wheelies with a 30T frt pulley and the 280 tire. Can you explain what I expect to get as riding experience, if you compare the red springs to yellow ones for example?
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No, i can't, since i installed the std Gold springs with my SR-2 revA
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Simply put the stock or Speed*Diaphragm clutch spring collapses with an overriding feelingwhen the cluch lever is bottomed out on the grip and is easier to hold-in at a stop light if that's your style of riding.
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The Barnett uses 6-coil springs that have a linearrate so that the clutch lever forces increase as the lever approaches the grip. Therefore, there will be more effort disengaging the clutch as you increase the spring rates from Gold, Blue to Red[/list]
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The modulation of the clutch with the Barnett plate is decidedly better[/list]
I will stick with the red springs. This is coming from a trusted mechanic:
"I always go with the red springs because, I've slipped clutches with the gold springs, I've slipped clutches with the green springs too, the only ones that have always got the job done were the red springs. If your going to spend the money and take the time to put a race clutch in, you should set it up right the first time, or don't bother doing it."
He was aware of the defect present into all Barnett SR-2's, with the manufacture date previous to April 2007.
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