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Discussion Starter #1
So im coming home wednsday night from my familie's festive meeting ground - Monterreys. The moment i hit my driveway the bike dies and says "Er. 1". I dont have a manual but i figured if its the first thing that could go wrong its prob. a fuse. Indeed it was, the 10a ignition fuse. So i replaced it and thought nothing of it.. I take the bike out again yesterday and it rode finefor about 30 min. and then it did it again.. luckily i had one spare left so i rode to autozone and picked up a pack of them in case..5 min down the rode it broke again.. so while parked on the sidewalk on the side of the rode i replaced it and left the seat open and cranked it and instantly it broke again... replaced it again and rode to my friends house to see his new vrod muscle.. praying that it wouldnt do it again.. Luckily the good lord got me home with 3 fuses left in the pack. WTF is going on. I remember reading that when taking apart the right hand housing if you break that little tab it causes a bad connection but i dont understand why... its plastic and plastic isnt electrically conductive.. Plus i did that like 3 months ago and havent had the problem until now. Just installed 2 Kuryakyn silver bullets in the back with quick disconnects so maybe they could be poorly wired but they have a different fuse.. Need some input.. im really hoping to not have to go buy a new housing.
 

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If your popping a fuse some thing is shorted or its going to ground. I do not have a print but you should be able to find one on this site. I would suggest you look the wiring over extrmely well. sinces it is the ing fuse look the coils over and the wiring going to them. A buddy of mine had the same problem on his Honda. Fund an expose wire going to the frame. we would be riding along fine then pooof his bike would die and the ignition fuse would be blown.


Let us know what you find
 

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Reminds me of a pinched wire instead of a cut wire. Retrace the wiring to the rear of the bike starting at under the seat to be sure the battery isnt mashing the wires there then on through the gromet to the rear and so on. Had my yellow wire get pinched a few years ago back there and with your recent activity that might be it. Also dont know if you have a PCIII but if you do recheck its wires too. Good Luck
 

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Yea i think it probably has to be a pinched wire.. I have the excess wire stuffed under the metal bracket under the rear fender so it doesnt dangle.. Also under the seat when i put in the load equilizer it came with those little red wire clamps that just snap together and those could be going wrong.. .. Blah... I hate going through electrical lines to find a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Exactly.. Plus the turn signals have a seperate fuse.. I have a gut feeling that its either in the wireing that i have done myself under the seat for the load equilizer and the leds i installed for my side mount plate... And that wreched killswitch peg that i broke off when reinstalling the housing..
 

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There is a loop wire that runs back there, the yellow. Which also indirectly ties to (ignition, lights, tach, key switch). What most would call a switched hot wire, when the key is turned it goes hot and stays that way.
 

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Hey bro got your message, lemme have a minute . . .


Yours is a2002 hot rod with a few nice mods, and as I recall it has run very stable for you.


Er. 1 [does Er1 continue to show?]


The problem: 10a ignition fuse blows repetitvely but not necessarily immediately.


[Let's play follow the juice: Battery+to the main fuse - to the main switch (key) - to the ignition fuse - to the handlebar stop switch AND the starter relay- plus to the ECU to check sensor data. When all ECU conditions are met: starter relay acts - starter motor turns.] [Service Manual Page 7-23]


Your observations:


Has broken tab in right hand housing (3 months been okay). [open this up and check the red/white wire at your killswitch for sparking marks or exposed conductor wire] - and - Thekillswitch peg that i broke off when reinstalling the housing. [these two items are the same] [if you don't find damage to the red-white wire along the way, then this is your second most likely problem area]


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Your other observations probably not causing this problem:


Just installed 2 Kuryakyn silver bullets in the back with quick disconnects (have a different fuse). [no matter if these are running lights plugged into the tail light circuit, orsignals plugged into the L and R signal circuits,they are fed by the 10-amp signal fuse] (see also below)**


The wiring that i have done myself under the seat for the load equilizer and the leds i installed for my side mount plate. [the tail light. plate light, and rear brake light operate thru the 10-amp signal fuse]


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** [Just FYI the front "running lights" use the headlight fuse]
 

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OK.


Your problem circuit can only be the ignition circuit AFTER the 10-amp ignition fuse. The only two potential problem items, other than a bad wire along the way, are the handlebar kill switch (red/white wire)or the starter solonoid (also off the same red/white wire). The only other connection this wire sees is the ECU and its working fine, obviously.


Follow and inspectthe red/white wire from the 10-amp ignition fuse to the handlebar cut-off switch as much as able. The red/black wire from the handlebar cut-off switch runs to the ignition relay and te coils (corrected sorry).


Follow and inspect the red/white wirefrom the same 10-amp ignition fuse to the starter solonoid (partly a shared wire).


On the first pass, ignore parts that are inside a harness since they are protected from abrasion.


I believe your problem is in that circuit, either an exposed wire, or a bad handlebar off switch, or a bad starter relay (although this seems unlikely check it anyway).


Try these thingsfirst okay?


You still have the TT bars right? Or have you added internally-wired bars?


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Keep in mind, with vibration and kink damage, if there's one wire damaged in an area,there are probably other wires at the locationalso damaged that just haven't bit you yet.


I need someone else to chime-in: does the red/white ignition wire pass thru the headlight bucket on its way to the key switch or handlebar cut off switch? That is an area where abrasion occurs due to tight quarters and a nearbyheat source (the bulb).
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Your help is more than apreciated.. im just now about to take the tank off and check all the wires bc ive had alot to do today.. Yes i still have the tt bars and no the error message does not keep occuring after i have changed the fuse. Hopefully i'll be getting back to you soon and saying ive found the problem.. I gotta show out tommorow i dont think i can make it with no bike tommorow.. i observe the sabbath in my home. :)
 

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After many setbacks and a complete gastroectomy im still SOL. Followed the red and white wire all the way from the fuse box through the headlight and into the killswitch and saw no problems but still closed the butt joint inside the headlight, rewrapped the wires coming from my side mount plate, resoddered the red/white at the killswitch and it still keeps blowing them. It feels sooo **** good outside i feel like god is laughing at me. Im afraid im going to have to break down and spend the 200 to get a new killswitch.. all for a 3mm peice of plastic that broke.. Does anyone know if i can put a housing from a midnight on my 02 bc ive got them painted black and i never ever want to take the right one apart again so i would like to avoid having to paint a new one..
 

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Follow the red/black wire from both coils back to the starter relay, then back to the kill switch. Check if the coil wires are attached (don't press too hard the tabs bend easy). You have a direct-short to ground, most likely a wire or a wire end vibrating around. Lemme know.
 

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I believe the midnights are identical, just black. Some years have the function icon on the button, others on the housing, no biggie.


Arcinfidel said:
Does anyone know if i can put a housing from a midnight on my 02 bc ive got them painted black and i never ever want to take the right one apart again so i would like to avoid having to paint a new one..
 

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I know they are a pain in the u know what. - and there is no easy way to find. WE probably went through 20 bucks worth of fuses till we found the problem on my buddy's bike - and i think we were lucky when we finally found it.
 
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