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Discussion Starter #1
Took me a bit but very rewarding.
I had in my mind about what sound I was looking for as well as looking mean and powerful.

I started off by trying out a shortened Cherry Bomb glass pack with 2.5” inlet and outlet. The Cherry Bomb is inside the big pipe.

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Next I picked up a 5” turn out exhaust stack, aluminized only.
Played around with some exhaust pipe fittings, cutting and grinding until I got a good fit.

Next comes the Tig welder, grinding wheel and paint.

just a quick note,
This is the first time in my life I have ever used a welder for steel. I’ve been a commercial HVAC mechanic for just over 30 years and I can weld the snot out of copper pipe with oxy-acetylene so I do have a good understanding of heat and what’s needed to join pieces of metal. Welds were ugly but good and deep with minimal porosity. Cutting the alumized coating off took a good while.

And ... a good retired friend of mine gave me the Tig welder for free, so what the heck.
Git er done.
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I did nothing real fancy and at anytime the slip on can be removed and put back to stock by re-installing the original muff brackets.

Also, while down there, I picked up a matching Galfer rear brake line. Now both front and rear brake lines match.

She’s got a real good tone, at idle she sounds like a big V-Twin. At wide open throttle she’s louder than #%^*!
But not loud to me since the sound goes back and away from the rider.

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am I seeing this correct? did you attach the bracket on your muffler to the same bolt as your rear brake?
 

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^^^ …. That's not going to last long at all. The swing arm is a dynamic suspension component and pivots constantly!
  • You'll want to attach your muffler bracket to the bike frame with the existing (2) M10 tapped holes you've plugged.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
^^^ …. That's not going to last long at all. The swing arm is a dynamic suspension component and pivots constantly!
  • You'll want to attach your muffler bracket to the bike frame with the existing (2) M10 tapped holes you've plugged.
Are you referring to the place where the lower stock muffler bracket attaches to the frame?
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Discussion Starter #9
Makes good sense. Thank you.

Now, I need the forum members help with ideas how to make this work.
Please help me with ideas.

Thank you all.


At my disposal is a Tig welder.
Tap and die set.
Grinder.
Many sizes of nuts, bolts.

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I'd say.. bend that bracket you've already got till it can attach to the stock lower exhaust bracket...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks guys, much appreciated.
Would have sucked real bad driving down the road and something give.

I kinda did a little bit of what the two of you suggested.
I bent the welded bracket but it was not quite there.
I didn’t want to weld again on the muff, thick metal to thin metal on a Tig is tricky for a beginner like me. So I cut a bracket, drilled a couple of holes and welded it to the existing welded bracket.

It fits very nicely.
On to prep and then paint.

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Discussion Starter #14
Finished up this morning and itching to take her for a ride but I have to let the paint cure for a day.

Here are the pictures with the slip on installed.
The last pic shows the inside and hopefully you can see the exit side of the Cherry Bomb that has a slightly modified 5” OD to 3.5” ID reducer.
The outside diameter of the Cherry Bomb is 3.5” and the reducer is welded to the case of the Cherry Bomb, about 2/3rds forward of its inlet with small welds on the trimmed down 5” to the inside of the pipe.

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just glad we were able to help out..

you solution sure looked cleaner.. but this way your new exhaust will survive riding
Or could just add some flex-joint...
Looks great!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 
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