[Cuddy14]

Hey everyone new to the Warrior Family. I have and 05’ Warrior but having some fuel delivery issues. No signs of gas leaking but strong gas smell under seat. Possible culprit is dry break in that location due to the fuel residue around in that area. Checked exterior left side no dry breaks no gas odors. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Cam

 

[PeterSik]

welcome to da club..

the dry breaks have been discussed a lot use the search function of the site to find relevant threads..
if you don't have one on the left side.. send pics.. there should be one (+we love pics)

 

[CT_Warrior]

Welcome to the forum Cuddy14!

 

[arizonawarrior]

Hey everyone new to the Warrior Family. I have and 05’ Warrior but having some fuel delivery issues. No signs of gas leaking but strong gas smell under seat. Possible culprit is dry break in that location due to the fuel residue around in that area. Checked exterior left side no dry breaks no gas odors. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Cam

Study observe compare. You'll find it.

How Many Warriors Have Sprung a Fuel Leak?

Updated April 4th 2014: It seems another large number of fuel leaks have occurred since the last update in September 2012. I expect we should be wondering why Yamaha has not done a recall to cover the 2002 left side dry-break, and also the fuel tank outlet Filter Assembly for the...

www.rswarrior.com

 

[Heftysmurf]

Arizona got you pointed in the right direction. Make sure you disconnect the dry breaks, squirt some WD40 in there, maybe even clean them up a bit so the crude is gone and them make sure they "click" back on when you connect them again.

 

[Cuddy14]

Arizona got you pointed in the right direction. Make sure you disconnect the dry breaks, squirt some WD40 in there, maybe even clean them up a bit so the crude is gone and them make sure they "click" back on when you connect them again.

So I removed cover off left side of bike discovered this set of Dry Breaks also the one in under rear seat looks soiled a tad bit. I will disconnect them and use the WD40 on them. Hopefully that does the trick. Thanks everyone for the welcome and the tips, I will keep you all posted

 

[random_guy]

That's not a standard fuel line connection. I'd double check the entire length of that hose and the connectors and clamps on both ends. Also, it looks like you've got some fabric in a place where there shouldn't be. Can you take a couple wider shot photos so we can see what you're working with?

 

[arizonawarrior]

I agree the hex/slot clamps may not stay round, so could have cut into the Fuel hose or some such. You might remove them from both the side and underseat and inspect. The crimp-type clamps provide better service which is why the factory used them in these spots even though they are not high-pressure lines.

The left side dry break seems like it has more gap than there should be. Maybe it's just my old eyes. I agree it's maybe good to zap them all with WD40 as Hefty suggested, and gently snap 'em together firmly listening for the click. If you look inside the dry break halves and see crud in the ball valves in either half, it's time for a cleanup.

Did you read through that entire fuel leak thread? It's long. But it drives home stuff you need to know.

 

[Cuddy14]

So here is hopefully a wider shot sorry about the debris had to evict a family of ants. Bike has sat for about 2 weeks

That's not a standard fuel line connection. I'd double check the entire length of that hose and the connectors and clamps on both ends. Also, it looks like you've got some fabric in a place where there shouldn't be. Can you take a couple wider shot photos so we can see what you're working with?

View attachment 256516

 

[random_guy]

So here is hopefully a wider shot sorry about the debris had to evict a family of ants. Bike has sat for about 2 weeks View attachment 256518

Oh man! I don’t think I’ve seen a mess like that before… yeah, start with your hose and clamps. Take lots of pics, especially when you pull your tank.

 

[arizonawarrior]

If it were me, I would remove the top fuel tank and set it safely aside. Then I'd carefully lift all wiring from under the rider seat, including ECU and its tray, rag-wipe everything while lifting. Notice extent of fuel contamination. Disconnect and remove the battery, clean it too, then wipe-out the battery box and clean the little drain hole. Next, lift out the relay rack in the right-side of the battery box, clean, and clean the little drain hole on that side of the box. There is a pdf attached here showing how to lift the relay rack out of the battery box:

Replacing or Modding the Flasher (with pictures)

I've been dutifully working on the problem of fast-flashing turn signals after replacing incandescent's with LED's. I promised to document how to remove the pesky turn signal relay next time I'm in there, so the purpose of this post is just to illustrate how to get to the flasher. This post is...

www.rswarrior.com

Then identify what all the extra wires do.

Then replace the fuel dry break screw clamps with crimps. Replace any damaged fuel hose.

BE GENTLE WHEN WORKING ON TOP OF THE UNDERSEAT AUXILIARY FUEL TANK. THE PLASTIC NIPPLES FOR THE FUEL LINES ARE DELICATE AND HAVE BROKEN IN THE PAST. YOU WANT TO AVOID THAT. ALSO, BE CAREFUL WHAT WIRING AND DEVICES YOU SET ON TOP OF THE UNDERSEAT FUEL TANK FOR THIS SAME REASON.

 

[Heftysmurf]

I concur with Arizona. You gotta start with a "clean" slate to see what is going on. Remove tank and blow all that debris away and give the old girl a good wipe down. Also those hose clamps when put on too tight have a tendency to start to cut into the hose. So it would be a good idea to physically check the hose while getting the proper hose clamps to replace that one.

 

[Cuddy14]

Hey everyone, thanks again for all the forum welcomes and priceless information. I was able to disconnect both dry breaks clean and reconnect them with WD40. The pic of left side dry break that I submitted earlier in the post shown it wasn’t fully snapped in smh(Thanks arizonawarrior). After the disconnect and clean and reconnect. The bike started and I let idle for 15 mins with no leaks or strong gas fumes. Took for about a 10 min ride in the neighborhood nice power and no hesitation. Came back home and let idle for another 12 mins to check for leaks or fumes and I had nada. Seems as if I’m ready to roll again. Would anyone suggest a high temp silicone applied on the dry breaks to keep them from separating again? All info is definitely appreciated. Thanks everyone for the input. Also bike is undergoing a full detail and clean up with wires, exterior, etc.

 

[Thommy_STC]

Welcome from Germany, ride safe !

 

[arizonawarrior]

@Cuddy14 good job brother!