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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Bought my Warrior about a month ago and had some turn signal issues. The rears were badly corroded and both bulbs burn out and the fronts were missing altogether. Got the rears cleaned up and replaced the bulbs with LEDs but took me forever to figure out what I wanted to do with the fronts. Finally landed on the LED fork strips and couldn't be happier with how they turned out.

20210422_203011.jpg 20210422_202920.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Looks good. How did you correct the turn signal flash rate? Do you still have the stock license plate light installed?
Haven't corrected the flash rate yet. My biggest priority was getting working turn signals because when I bought it there were none. I've been reading up on here the different solutions people have came up with to fix it. I will most likely just go the load equalizer route. That will be next on my agenda. And no the license plate light was taken off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Read up on the C.O.D. (Click of Death) to prevent any future mishaps as well.
I came across some discussions about the COD when I was looking up turn signal ideas and read a lot about it. I know a lot of people have talked about wiring a light into the running lights inside the headlight can. I'm wondering if since I wiring these up as running lights as well it will prevent it. I will be doing some experimenting and see if I hear it.
 

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So if you have the rear license plate light hooked up

Will that take care of the COD issue

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That wire is interconnected with the running light wire in the headlight bucket and both front and rear running lights have incandescent bulbs. Without those strategically placed incandescent bulbs the bike would have cod from the factory. I figure Yamaha knew about / discovered the trouble and solved it by keeping a few incandescent bulbs in a bike that is pretty much all led otherwise. Maybe not, it's just my whimsy.
 

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Since I've removed my license plate light and am running an integrated tail light, I have a fast flash but no C.O.D. Would just adding a properly sized resistor from the license plate light wire to the frame be a solution? I know there's a lot about adding resistors to the front signals (which I'll most likely do when I go LED up front) but just curious about the fastest solution with the minimal amount of work. If this does work, what size should that resistor be?

I'm partially asking for me but also for all the new guys that are buying Warriors for the first time and are stumbling into this issue. I've thought about trying to make up some sort of plug and play kit that everyone would default to. Something that every Warrior would want so they never have to think about C.O.D. and is easier than changing a battery.

Just a thought. Always interested in fast, simple solutions that everything from a stock bike to the most modded out sled could benefit from.
 

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@random_guy

"Would just adding a properly sized resistor from the license plate light wire to the frame be a solution? "

Possibly, but remember the resistance needs to be quality so it does not fail. Plus there should not be an LED license plate light in the added circuit. As for types of resistance, remember that the factory setup has 4 incandescent bulbs on the circuit available to drain residual ecu energy at shutdown. That redundancy pretty much assures that three incandescent bulbs can burn out and the remaining would still solve what around here is called COD. It's helpful to also be clear about what COD is and what Fast Flash is.

Fast flash is solved by adding resistance back into the left blinker circuit and the right blinker circuit. Many types of resistance can do this. Plus an electronic flasher module will solve fast flash BUT you lose the auto-cancel safety feature in the turn signals (which most members want to retain for obvious reasons). So replacing some portion of the lost resistance appears to be the superior solution in the minds of most members.

Changing gears.

COD is solved by adding resistance back into the running lights circuit. That circuit includes for example the front running lights (one of the filaments in the 2-filament front bulbs), the rear running light (tail light), and the license plate light. The stock tail light is LED in most countries (some England and UK Warrior's have incandescent / filament tail lights). LED tail lights do not replace resistance so do not solve COD. That leaves the incandescent front running light bulbs and the incandescent license plate light bulbs to solve COD. If these are both removed then you need a replacement resistance as a COD solution.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
When I was buying the bike and being told the turn signals didn't work I was thinking oh turn signals are easy I can get that fixed pretty quickly....never thought there would be so much with the lights on these bikes 馃く
 
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