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Discussion Starter #1
Just got the Warrior back together. I tried to start it but no spark..... I tried to do the relay unit diode test but I am not sure I am doing it right... THe picture on page 459 of the manual is confusing for me because the colors they mention dont match up to the colors on my wiring harness....

I attached pictures of the relay unit and from what I can tell I am not getting the proper readings on the tests. Again I am not sure I am on the correct terminals.

I also attached a picture of my meter to show you what setting I am using.

ALSO FYI one of my friends wanted to learn a little about bikes so I had him over to help a bit. I told him to put the battery in, figuring anyone knows how to do that, and he hooked it up backwards! The main 30A fuse blew but I dont know if possibly that could of lead to this unit failing of if it helps with any suggestions
 

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Possible problem!

Ok so from what I remember from my Electrical Apprenticeship classes, and a quick google reminder, Diodes only flow voltage one way.

I took apart the start relay diode and took my meter, set to continuity, to each diode, there are 5. Again from what I remember and find on a quick search, my red or positive lead goes on the end of the diode with out the band and the black or negative lead goes on the end with the band, thats way voltage should go.

The 2 diodes at the top of the board d5 and d3 flow voltage both ways. the other diodes only flow from non banded to banded side. So I think this is the culprit.

Any thoughts on that is there something here I am not seeing, dont know or are mis understanding?

Sorry for the quick posts like this once I find an issue I cant sleep or do anything else other than think about it.....
 

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Look in my signature for the wiring diagram and troubleshooting procedure. The relay units differ (Early & Late) ... there should be a hyper link within the wiring diagram for the proper cut-sheet to ring out the diodes.

I would suggest you do a search using "alanh" and relay unit (also check my flickr gallery in Warrior misc for the diode ID's) for the details. I'm at work but two of the diodes are supressors for the relay coils and you'll get a feed back so beaware :>) .. btw i don't claim to be a guru
 

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bravo alan.....

fingers crossed for you monty it's all i can offer i'm sad to admit

is this a case of electronics isn't electrics ?

let us know if you need a part in the post

i've read everything you both said... i've no idea what you said ...google translate just laughed at me !

all i've learnt so far is don't let a friend put my battery back

bump
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok Alan using your Hand to hand combat file in your signiture. I was able to better understand how to test my relay diode. I am not getting the readings they are saying in the set mode. I am getting continuity exactly opposite of what they are saying I should have. I am figuring my diode is bad.

Again from other topics I have been reading this will cause everything to function properly but not provide me spark?
 

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Ok so from what I remember from my Electrical Apprenticeship classes, and a quick google reminder, Diodes only flow voltage one way.

I took apart the start relay diode and took my meter, set to continuity, to each diode, there are 5. Again from what I remember and find on a quick search, my red or positive lead goes on the end of the diode with out the band and the black or negative lead goes on the end with the band, thats way voltage should go.

The 2 diodes at the top of the board d5 and d3 flow voltage both ways. the other diodes only flow from non banded to banded side. So I think this is the culprit.

  • that's correct-you are reading feedback thru the relay coil as i stated in my OP this afternoon. These diodes protect the ECU from transient voltage only and don't affect the Starting LOGIC. by AlanH
Any thoughts on that is there something here I am not seeing, dont know or are mis understanding?

Sorry for the quick posts like this once I find an issue I cant sleep or do anything else other than think about it.....
You'll want to test the diodes according to the revised cut-sheet by this writer for the later bike (04 & up).
It's important you check the continuity using the terminals of the relay unit and not directly across the diodes.
This way you'll be able to identify burnt or cracked tracing of the PCB ... just my two cents.
gl
 

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Ok Alan using your Hand to hand combat file in your signiture. I was able to better understand how to test my relay diode. I am not getting the readings they are saying in the set mode. I am getting continuity exactly opposite of what they are saying I should have. I am figuring my diode is bad.

Again from other topics I have been reading this will cause everything to function properly but not provide me spark?
___________________________

Page 7-25.1 has the proper procedure shown below by this writer

http://www.rswarrior.com/forums/attachments/technical-discussion/26961d1376753999-code-43-chapter-7-pgs-23-27-warrior_service_manual.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok I brought the part to work with me to test it again. So I have verified according to your drawing Alan I am getting the exact opposite readings that I am supposed to be getting. I did all the testing at the terminals as you suggested.

I guess I am going to see if I can find one of these thigns local here in Russia. If I cant I will be back in the States for a week mid March I will pick on up then. I just hope this is my problem.
 

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Excellent Trouble Shooting

Ok I brought the part to work with me to test it again. So I have verified according to your drawing Alan I am getting the exact opposite readings that I am supposed to be getting. I did all the testing at the terminals as you suggested.

I guess I am going to see if I can find one of these thigns local here in Russia. If I cant I will be back in the States for a week mid March I will pick on up then. I just hope this is my problem.
Monty,
Hats-Off to you for bringing this to my attention in the open forum and i say that with deep respect :)

The Yamaha Factory Shop Manual procedure for testing the Diode Units (Early Bike) is not correct and I carried it over to my page 7-25.1 for model years '04' & UP.

I've helped many a member with blown diodes and/or PCB burnt tracing and not one owner ever challenged the incorrect polarity for the diodes.

I've never had to test my Relay Unit (only armchair quarterbacking) ... the marked-up photo i posted was sent to me from a member and i embellished it based on my understanding of the schematic.

Bottom line you don't have a problem with the relay unit so you'll need to move on.

I've enclosed Updated files showing the correct polarity.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I think I have the lead on something but wont have time to look into it until Sunday. I will update then.

I dont want to muddy this post up to much. Its my goal to find the problem and post it back up here. During my searching of the forum so many times I found someone with a similar problem and their post just ends with ohh its fixed never what the problem was.
 

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Monty you hit a nail hard on the head :)

We don't ask anything for helping .... Even guys who pop on and pop off with good info ...

so it will always be great for the fix to be mentioned and recorded for the future

Hope you're detective skills have found a solution .... It's always good to have someone like alan, with great knowledge, thinking it thru with you

Alas I'm no still wiser on this diode info
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Problem solving

SO to recap after cleaning everything this winter I put the bike back together and had no spark. After testing the Start Relay Diode it checked out ok.

I took apart the connection going to the CPS (crankshaft position sensor) I used my meter to check the resistance.
I had an open circuit when there should of been around 280 ohms of resistance.

After making that discovery and consulting with AlanH I started to follow the wires back towards the CPS. As I was trying to trace them back I decided it would be better to remove the pulley and the housing behind the pulley, I had done this earlier in the year because I dropped a bolt done by the battery box ended up taking the front pulley and housing around it off to find this missing bolt.


Its fairly simple to remove the pulley just take the center nut off and. Next take the 4 bolts on the right off, they go to the bracket that connects the transfer case to the frame.


Remove the pulley and this is what you have. Now to take that housing off. First its easiest to remove the cover that hides the reserve fuel tanks. Then there are 5 allen bolts in the center around the pulley shaft and also there are 3 bolts to the left you have to remove. After thats done the housing will just pull off its kind of a pain but it will pull off.


When I got that housing off I found whats in the picture above.... When I put everything back together this winter I had smashed the wires going to the CPS.


I cut everything back to have a look at the wires and they were pretty much trashed.
 
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