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Discussion Starter #1
My 06 midnight now has 40000 miles on it. performance mods include hc pistons, dyna coils, speedstar exhaust, vbak, mildly ported heads (exhaust ports smoothed up), Ivans flash, pcv with dual autotune, barnett clutch conversion with green springs, 31 tooth front pulley.
Here goes...
Last summer it would randomly not want to fire up smoothly. sometimes it would misfire when it started up and sometimes even backfire and pop. once was so bad when i left work it was lurching and sputtering out the intakes and exhaust for about 30 seconds while rolling down the 1/2 mile driveway at work. always seemed to clear up for the most part. air temp and moisture had no effect on it. i thought maybe the tank was pulling vac when it cooled off but no. vents are fine. plugs are fine. throttle reads zero all the way to 100 percent with the pcv like it should. I lost mileage. it went from 45 to 55 down to 35 to 42 average. the autotune was trying to add more fuel constantly. the maps i am running are after tweaking it to run really great with the autotune and ive been on the same maps for long before this problem. bike still has gobs of power and i dont think im down on power.

one thing i noticed is the throttle feels "on and off" like it did before the ivans smoothed it out. even at 55 or 60 though i feel like its shutting off for a split half a second every time my hand moves. but its not haha. the random (its not every time) hard starting and misfiring when starting first made me think a lifter isnt holding its prime and having trouble pumping back up when it happens to be shut down holding a valve open.

so my thoughts are this:

bad lifter,
although i would think it wouldnt work itself out the way it does and id be down on power which i am not

Faulty coil,
if its getting intermittent weak spark i could see that screwing with the burn and the autotune but they both test the same with a multimeter

something with an injector,
maybe ones clogged up a bit and thats why its trying to add more fuel. i would think id be down on power though

some other wiring issue,
at first glance everything seems tight and a good connection. i dont have any obvious breaks in wires and no codes thrown

last fall i replaced plugs and wires again. that made no change. most of the time it fires up without a hiccup. but still seems off to me the way it behaves. there are no fuel leaks, i can hear the pump when i hit the key, the throttle bodies were synced two years ago(they required no adjustment) and everything looks correct on the powercommander software.

at this point im ready to tear into it. i have gaskets on the way to go as far as removing the jugs (ive had carbon buildup baddd on the piston tops in the past and i kind of want to make sure they are clean now that the tuneup is better.) i want to inspect the lifters and replace them possibly. shortly after i got my bike at 13000 miles, i replaced the lifters because i didnt realize the engine noise was normal. so i have the stock lifters i could put back in no problem. on my way into it ill check the valve clearances and what not as well.

anyone have any further ideas or what else i should test or look into before i tear this thing completely apart and test everything i possibly can? I have the service manual as well for reference
 

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Put the bike under a dark tarp or in a dark garage and start it up while watching the Dyna coils. The primary wires connect to the coils with fasteners, and they can be arcing to the fasteners holding the bracket to the bike. I used stainless button head Allen screws to get clearance.

Next, some secondary wires and/or their boots are made from materials that tend to slip off of the coils. More info on the Dyna website. So fiddle with the spark plug wires at the coils.

The stock spark plugs have threaded stud terminals but the Dyna uses conventional plug wires having terminal ends. Sometimes these thread-on terminal ends are not fully tight. And sometimes they are over tightened cracking the spark plug porcelain.

Let's hunt these down first to prove the coil mod before moving on. But while at it go ahead and also check out the stock decompression solenoid system, and verify warm idle is at 850~950 rpm, and also run down the handy troubleshooting steps in the manual for hard starts.

One key is that the bike's baseline setup needs to be verified before assuming the fuel manager is managing correctly. Even with autotune it could be reacting to setup conditions that are masking issues.

Another key is that intake air leaks can cause the ECU to act oddly, and force the system to hunt and seek which will be observable as hard starting. It also messes with fuel management.

I think your solution is along these paths. Its likely some simple thing. But if not then look in Documentation for its Table of Contents, then look for setting up the Warrior for tuning, then browse to that and download it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i will run it in the dark and check for arcing. great minds think alike as i have already verified the spark plug boots and tested the resistance of the wires. i filed down the heads on the coil mounting bolts when i mounted them to give clearance to the terminals. i can slip a credit card between them easily. warm idle is 950 right on the dot. my solution to the thread on spark plug caps is to take a pair of side cutters and mess up the threads on the plug itself. then thread the caps on over the messed up threads so they cannot vibrate loose. has always worked great and i have already verified they are still all tight. seems like last year i was checking out the decompression solenoid but i will revisit that again to be sure. i dont think its the pcv or autotune, i think it is trying to compensate for something else wrong. the throttle bodies have plugs on them from me removing the lcv and in the past i had a plug rot off so I am constantly checking and replacing them with fresh ones. I will put a straw on a can of starting fluid and check for leaks at the throttle bodies though. maybe I will be able to try these things today. i have only ridden it once to work this year so far. both starts were fine but it was popping a bit on decel until it was warm and the throttle was acting "on and off" like i was saying. when ive had trouble at starts last year it would fire up no problem but would be misfiring and rough for a few seconds to a minute. one of the last times i rode it last year was on a 450 mile day ride and it did alright. the problems have not gotten worse nor better. I will report back after ive investigated a few things.
 
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I wonder if your TPS could be faulty causing the rough running and backfiring. Just taking a guess at the problem since you have done most of the things that are obvious.
 

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Along with the intake air a bad connection to o2 sensor might make the pcv add or cut fuel due to erratic signal.....I agree with checking spark then intake but this would be my next thing is look at, good signal throughout
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I wonder if your TPS could be faulty causing the rough running and backfiring. Just taking a guess at the problem since you have done most of the things that are obvious.
last year with the computer hooked up to it every percentage of throttle was reading correctly with the pcv software and it was doing it smoothly. i know thats not a foolproof method of testing it haha but it didnt show anything obvious. Ill check in the manual if theres other testing to do with it
 

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When it acts up does it do it enough that you could take temp reading on header pipe to see if one cylinder is the problem or both?
 

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And the problem with the computer scan is that if it's bit acting up at the time, the issue won't show up..... gives a false sense of things being ok.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
so the one ride i took the speedometer wasnt working. i figured it was just a glitch but now theres more to it maybe. i just fired it up on the stand and speedo still isnt working so i unplugged my speedohealer and that didnt fix it. it ran just fine and smooth though. there might be a slight tick sometines comming up by the cam and lifter area. i grabbed every wire under my seat and wiggled everything without it affecting the idle in the slightest. ill get the tank off then try to see if there is a leak near the throttle bodies and ill take the headlight out and see if theres something astray that will explain the speedometer suddenly not working. tach works and all the lights work but the tach is flashing constantly.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
nothing in the headlight bucket is visibly damaged and all the wires i played with and could not get the speedo to start working. started it in the dark and no arcs anywhere that i can see.
 
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Discussion Starter #12

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Your lifter is a separate trouble. Try removing maybe a quarter of motor oil and making it up with marvel mystery oil. Ride it until fully hot. See if it quiets the sticky lifter.

Of course the rattle could be air:fuel induced. So if the MMO does not produce results it's back to the fuel manager.
 

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My warrior occasionally runs bad won’t idle properly stalls pops n bangs on down change and back fires through the intake when starting
but it’s always the same thing causing it so check your vacuum pipes and the connecter to the linear control valve
even if the pipes are kinked it will cause problems
hopefully that does the trick we’ll probably the easiest trick 😁
252458
 

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Discussion Starter #16
quick little update. havent had the time to work on it much but currently have it down to having the throttle bodies removed. so far i have found 2 things. one of the leads to the left side coils was slightly corroded. the wire was still connected but you can feel the corrosion when you wiggle the wire back and fourth so about 10 lefts to rights and the wire is going to seperate completely off the eyelet.
252599
ill fix this before reassembling it. the other thing and possibly the main problem is the throttle body for the front cylinder. when i pulled it off it had dirt and sand against the gasket. i figured this was just from it dropping off at first as i unbolted it but i see little etches where it was tightened down like that. could have been leaking there for sure.
252600
252601
 

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Discussion Starter #17
My warrior occasionally runs bad won’t idle properly stalls pops n bangs on down change and back fires through the intake when starting
but it’s always the same thing causing it so check your vacuum pipes and the connecter to the linear control valve
even if the pipes are kinked it will cause problems
hopefully that does the trick we’ll probably the easiest trick 😁
View attachment 252458
I checked both connections. Both are still capped off. haha havent had a lcv for years! but yes ive had these plugs tear and does exactly what you are describing!
252606
 

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Discussion Starter #18
well crap i took a picture of the wrong coil haha. the right side is the one that was worse and it did break off when i moved it. i guess ill be replacing all 4 leads just to play it safe!
252607
 
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Discussion Starter #20
From symptoms and pictures you need to also have your injectors rebuilt and flow tested.
can you describe from my pictures (and i can take new ones of anything) what you are seeing that leads you to say that? and what type of place does that?
 
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