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Notice my comment was ALSO. I think you discovered one trouble. These are the indicators to me the injectors should be serviced. Or replaced. I have a spare pair for convenience.

Here's why I'm also suggesting injector cleaning. The picture of the TB's throat and top of top flange, plus 40,000 miles, plus you said this:

"Last summer it would randomly not want to fire up smoothly. sometimes it would misfire when it started up and sometimes even backfire and pop. once was so bad when i left work it was lurching and sputtering out the intakes and exhaust for about 30 seconds while rolling down the 1/2 mile driveway at work. always seemed to clear up for the most part. air temp and moisture had no effect on it."

Part of the observations you posted in your entire first post could be the coil connection. But the intermittent coil would not routinely correct itself as you described it did. Also, the coil might be responsible for some sort of pop but odds are the bike would have tried to run on one jug and you would have known it. So, when taken together, your observations lead me to strongly suspect at least one fouled and/or dripping injector also exists.

Happily, while it's apart to that point anyway its a very fast removal. Plus it's about time based on years and mileage. Check the e-manual for the work and don't get yerself squirted! Also, fuel system cleaner will not solve it.

I'm uncertain if you also have hotter cams and/or injectors to go with the HC pistons, but in this case it does not change this being my best guess. I realize I could be wrong, but the odds are heavily weighted. And its probably overdue anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Notice my comment was ALSO. I think you discovered one trouble. These are the indicators to me the injectors should be serviced. Or replaced. I have a spare pair for convenience.

Here's why I'm also suggesting injector cleaning. The picture of the TB's throat and top of top flange, plus 40,000 miles, plus you said this:

"Last summer it would randomly not want to fire up smoothly. sometimes it would misfire when it started up and sometimes even backfire and pop. once was so bad when i left work it was lurching and sputtering out the intakes and exhaust for about 30 seconds while rolling down the 1/2 mile driveway at work. always seemed to clear up for the most part. air temp and moisture had no effect on it."

Part of the observations you posted in your entire first post could be the coil connection. But the intermittent coil would not routinely correct itself as you described it did. Also, the coil might be responsible for some sort of pop but odds are the bike would have tried to run on one jug and you would have known it. So, when taken together, your observations lead me to strongly suspect at least one fouled and/or dripping injector also exists.

Happily, while it's apart to that point anyway its a very fast removal. Plus it's about time based on years and mileage. Check the e-manual for the work and don't get yerself squirted! Also, fuel system cleaner will not solve it.

I'm uncertain if you also have hotter cams and/or injectors to go with the HC pistons, but most often that does not change this bring my best guess.
thanks! i have wondered the shape of the injectors and after asking you about them i stumbled on some of your old posts about having them rebuilt. I will definitely send them out somewhere. i have stock cams (went 260 rear instead of cams last year) and stock injectors. yea i am beginning to think my issues are all little seperate problems working together to make it run like **** randomly haha. and i havent even turned a valve cover bolt yet! ill get the injectors sent out asap because they will be what holds me up at this point. i plan on repainting the valve covers, pushrod tubes, exhaust, and some other parts that have been due for a fresh coat of black for a while now while ive got it apart. its been three years since the throttle bodys were off so while it looks like they might not have had a good seal they didnt give me issues for 2 years and the bolts were tight still. THAT was a fun time. pulled the bike out of storage and it wouldnt run. pouring gas out the exhaust, had good spark. it wasnt till i put it in gear and it rolled too easily down the driveway that i realized something else was up. i had 2 exhaust valves seized open. one on each cylinder. did an overnight teardown and got them freed up before rebuilding it and thats how i probably got dirt that fell into the throttle body gasket. live and learn. crazy part is that same year my 1950 farmall h had the exact same problem with 3 exhaust valves. shitty gas or something!

I will keep you all updated
 
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When you have it back together, there is a pdf in Documentation about setting the Warrior up before tuning. Working thru it will help you catch things and establish a correct baseline. It's been helpful even just for spring wake-ups lol.

There is another pdf there somewhere about if you have troubles after installing a BAK or VBAK. It's surprisingly helpful after a tear-down.

Use the Documentation forum table of contents then browse to. There are no live links due to security and because software upgrades and migrations like to kill links.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
When you have it back together, there is a pdf in Documentation about setting the Warrior up before tuning. Working thru it will help you catch things and establish a correct baseline. It's been helpful even just for spring wake-ups lol.

There is another pdf there somewhere about if you have troubles after installing a BAK or VBAK. It's surprisingly helpful after a tear-down.

Use the Documentation forum table of contents then browse to. There are no live links due to security and because software upgrades and migrations like to kill links.
For sure! i definitely want to go through everything with a fine tooth comb putting it back together and make sure all the adjustments are set right before i let the pcv autotune retune my maps!
 
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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
havent pulled the heads off yet. injectors are in the mail sent to get flowtested cleaned and rebuilt but did pull the rockers and pushrod tubes off. hmm found my tick haha
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252655

the first lifter is the front cylinder intake and the second picture is the rear cylinder intake. wondering if i should pull the cams out and check the clearances where they ride in the cover next to the gear. going to have to get down there to check the cam lobes anyways it looks like. might need new cams and at least lifters for sure. i still have the oem lifters i can put back in. these lifters have about 25000 miles on them.
 

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Good job! Buy new Melling lifters locally. Melling #JB-2011 Hydraulic Lifters. Woody (Churchkey) told me about them, got mine at a local Autozone. Replace all 4. Remember to prep them first and also get good assembly/break-in lube and apply it liberally!
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Good job! Buy new Melling lifters locally. Melling #JB-2011 Hydraulic Lifters. Woody (Churchkey) told me about them, got mine at a local Autozone. Replace all 4. Remember to prep them first and also get break-in lube.
haha actually now that you say that i wonder if these chewed up mellings have a lifetime warranty from my local autozone. ill have to find my Receipt! most likely 6 or 7 years ago when i found the part numbers i was probably looking at either one of your posts or like u said churchkeys. definitely found it on this forum. my oem ones have 13000 on them and i still have those laying around somewhere too. ill check the condition of them. i only replaced the lifters then because i was worried about what turned out to be normal running noise for these warriors.
 
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haha actually now that you say that i wonder if these chewed up mellings have a lifetime warranty from my local autozone. ill have to find my Receipt! most likely 6 or 7 years ago when i found the part numbers i was probably looking at either one of your posts or like u said churchkeys. definitely found it on this forum. my oem ones have 13000 on them and i still have those laying around somewhere too. ill check the condition of them. i only replaced the lifters then because i was worried about what turned out to be normal running noise for these warriors.
Hopefully the lifters are the sacrificial wear item here and the cam lobes are still in spec.

Those lifter markings remind me of initial start-up markings when normal oil was used for assembly and break-in, and then the tappet adjustment was a bit tight.

Plus it looks like the front intake lifter maybe didn't want to rotate.

Maybe soak the new lifters in new motor oil AND use more good quality cam-lifter assembly lube. Fully cover the cam lobes and bearings and put more under the wet lifters.

All said, I could be wrong.

I wonder what @Churchkey thinks.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
well i have both jugs off. pistons and heads look way cleaner than they did 3 years ago. then it was running really rich and had built up a very thick layer of carbon i had to practically chip off. Im on the fence about tearing the cams out now after looking down at them. they seem fine and I know my bike has 40k miles on it so everythibgs going to be worn. ill have to put the bike on hold for the next few days so maybe when i get back at it ill find some new motivation to keep tearing it apart further. Ill still be putting new lifters in regardless. The rear cylinder is definitely showing its age. It has wear that i can feel with my fingers. its going back together like that for now. maybe in the not too distant future i can do the big bore and cams like ive always wanted. here are a few pics.
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front cylinder is smooth without any wear like the rear. Everything will at least be clean and shiny before I put anything back together!
 
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Discussion Starter #30
My injectors are on the way home already. Jim at Injector Repair llc was awesome. he said they were perfect right out of the box but cleaned them inside and out and gave me all the info before and after on them.
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