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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Took an extra day off from work, so I was planning on riding today, but nooo. I took the warrior to the dealer first to see why it seeps oil from the bottom of the push rod tube. Dealer said keep an eye on it, and if it doesn't stop bring it in this winter, as it will be slow then.


Ok, so I decide to ride home and an idea pops in my head. The oil only seeps out when I take the RPM's to red line, other than that, no seeping. I was thinking maybe there is to much oil in the bike. The oil reads dead on to the maximum level on the oil stick.


So I take out a syringe (I don't have a pump & yes I could have taken the oil bolt off to drain a little) The syringe was large enough where it would not take much time to suck a little oil out. Well, as I was sucking out the last of my oil the plastic piece from the syringe falls into the oil fill hole. I felt like crying right there and started to panic. Well, I drained the oil and started to dig around. I immediately took the tubes that pump the oil to the crank case off, so that the plastic piece would not end up there. Ok, well now I know it's in the area under the oil fill hole and that is not a big area. So I get the flash light and start looking. Bang I see it right off the bat and get a metal clothes hanger and cut it so I can get the plastic piece. Well, I get it on the tip of the clothes hanger start to bring it up and it falls deep in the back of the oil tank. I no longer can see it in the tank. I start to panic again. I spend three hours looking for this fargin thing. I start to give up and tell myself I am just going to have to break the seal around the oil tank and get it out. Panic turns to sickness as I feel like throwing up now. One last try.


I'm looking at the oil filler neck and see one bolt. hmmmm I losen the bolt and the whole neck comes off, opening up a nice size hole to see all the way in the tank. I see the little *** wedged in there. I try making a small hook at the tip of the closes hanger and finally dig the lil sucker out. Sickeness turns to relief. As soon as I had the little plastic piece in my hands, I turned around and chunked that thing as far as I could. Seeing that it doesn't weigh anything, it went about 15 ft.


So much for my nice day off. Still don't know if this solved the seeping oil problem.
 

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haha fishing on your day off! that's so wrong on so many levels. nothin like a good poke when you're down to get ya back up again. glad you got it outta there, sorry you lost out on a day of possibly good riding. i'm curious about theoil leak, to the point i have been taking a look at my bike just to be sure. honestly with the bike being new i'm lookin at everything just to be sure all is well. let us know if droppin the oil level cures it.
 

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This say's it all
Rrrrrrgh


gremlin said:
haha fishing on your day off! that's so wrong on so many levels. nothin like a good poke when you're down to get ya back up again. glad you got it outta there, sorry you lost out on a day of possibly good riding. i'm curious about theoil leak, to the point i have been taking a look at my bike just to be sure. honestly with the bike being new i'm lookin at everything just to be sure all is well. let us know if droppin the oil level cures it.
 

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glad it finally worked out and way to persevere!

FWIW I have used a turkey baster to suck out a bit of oil from the filler neck before with success. It's nothing but a plastic tube with a rubber bladder at the end that creates the vacuum so there are no looses parts that could fall in.

Also let us know if the leak disappears or if it is still there. Overfill of oil tends to show itself via excess oil blowing out the breather typically. Oil leak at the base seems to me like another issue....Has the motor been worked on/opened before? What year is your Warrior and how many miles are on it?
 

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mdfdwarrior said:
glad it finally worked out and way to persevere!

FWIW I have used a turkey baster to suck out a bit of oil from the filler neck before with success. It's nothing but a plastic tube with a rubber bladder at the end that creates the vacuum so there are no looses parts that could fall in.

Also let us know if the leak disappears or if it is still there. Overfill of oil tends to show itself via excess oil blowing out the breather typically. Oil leak at the base seems to me like another issue....Has the motor been worked on/opened before? What year is your Warrior and how many miles are on it?
Yeah, turkey baster works well. As for that oil seep from under the pushrod tube: When I took the right side air box bracket off from that spot, I over-torqued one of the bolts and pinched the O ring under the front pushrod tube resulting in a real small leak...duh
. It's really not a big deal, but it's a great excuse for openin her up and puttin in some "go fast" parts to make up for the "go slow" mods.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
My bike is a 2008. Brand new with 736 miles on it.


Maybe I have tightened the bolts to tight and it's pinching the gasket. What is the torque specs for those bolts?
 

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Service manual page 5-21 shows the parts being named "valve lifter cases" and page 2-21 shows torque at 7.2 ft/lb which would require a special torque wrench to read very light torque. You'd also need the right allen bit.


However, generally, if you tighten one of the two bolts nearest the leak point, and not really tighten it but apply pressure to the allen wrench until the bolt rotates a micro-amount, it'll either stop the leak or just micro-tighten the other screw too. If it still doesn't stop leaking, you can continue rotating micro-tightening or disassemble and replace the bottom o-rings. Most of the time of you wipe off the oil after a micro-tighten you'll see it stops leaking.


If the TOP o-rings are leaking at the tube itself, then micro-tighten the bolts on top of the tube at the head. This o-ring area is alsosensitive. Too little o-ring compression and it leaks. Too mucho-ring compression and the o-rings get cut or pinched or pushed aside.


[edited for clarityby arizonawarrior]
 

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Another special tool !!!??? Turkey bast**d' thingy - which page shows that ruddy tool... does it go clockwise or anticlockwise.. do you suck to blow, or blow to suck a micro...? where are my glasses when i need them...it's not April is it?


And i thought that could only happen to me, seemed so easy didn't it - just suck a bit of oil... and..
[:'(] - full points for only throwing the plastic thingy
 

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fake said:
So I take out a syringe (I don't have a pump & yes I could have taken the oil bolt off to drain a little) The syringe was large enough where it would not take much time to suck a little oil out. Well, as I was sucking out the last of my oil the plastic piece from the syringe falls into the oil fill hole.

And that kids is why you should never share syringes... oh yeah, and AIDS I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Arizona Warrior said:
Service manual page 5-21 shows the parts being named "valve lifter cases" and page 2-21 shows torque at 7.2 ft/lb which would require a special torque wrench to read very light torque. You'd also need the right allen bit.


However, generally, if you tighten one of the two bolts nearest the leak point, and not really tighten it but apply pressure to the allen wrench until the bolt rotates a micro-amount, it'll either stop the leak or just micro-tighten the other screw too. If it still doesn't stop leaking, you can continue rotating micro-tightening or disassemble and replace the o-rings. Most of the time of you wipe off the oil after a micro-tighten you'll see it stops leaking.


This o-ring area is sensitive. Too little o-ring compression and it leaks. Too mucho-ring compression and the o-ring gets cut or pinched or pushed aside.

Arizona Warrior, is there any more info on the o-rings. I did a search but not much info came up on the o-rings. I tried losening the bolts again, but it's still leaking. I hate to take my baby into the dealership and letting them do the service. How hard is it to disassemble the push rod tubes to get to the o-ring?
 

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Its a real chore to disassemble as you can see from the service manual pages I gave you. Its a 2008 so its still under warranty - make th dealer do it until its fixed right. Don't tell them you tried to tighten - levae it their problem if you know what I mean. Here's the factory in case its helpful:


Yamaha Motor Corporation, USA
6555 Katella Avenue
Cypress, CA 90630

Sales, marketing and distribution of Star Motorcycles.

Customer Relations
(800) 962-7926, press "1" for Star Specialist.


O-Rings:




18
93210-40745-00
O-RING

2




19
93210-472A9-00
O-RING

2




24
93210-54175-00
O-RING

2




25
93210-54452-00
O-RING

2
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
well, seeing that the moderator locked my last post in the tech section, I have to post in here, even know this is a tech issue now. How do I check if the crank case vent tube is blocked? What would cause the tube to get blocked. This would cause excess oil pressure, would it not? What else would cause excess oil pressure?
 

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fake said:
well, seeing that the moderator locked my last post in the tech section, I have to post in here, even know this is a tech issue now. How do I check if the crank case vent tube is blocked? What would cause the tube to get blocked. This would cause excess oil pressure, would it not? What else would cause excess oil pressure?
The crankcase vent outlet is on the rear header on the rear/right side. The hose which connects to it is mated to the silencer box under the tank. If there is a blockage it will be really hard to correct as it involves removing & disassembling the silencer box. Assuming this is the source of the issue you will still have to tackle the leak. Once the rings have failed you are committed to replacing them.

If the bike is under warranty, get them to fix it, this should not be your headache.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
well, I just spent 2 hours taking the tank off and checking all the tubes and cleaning them out. I also unscrewed the screws to the push rod assembly and let it sit awhile before I re-tightened them to the 7.2 lbs with a tq wrench. If this doesn't work, I'll go in on Monday to make an appointment to get it fixed. I have been searching this site by searching "oil leak" and this appears to be a common problem. Not a large problem but many people have experienced what I am experencing right now.
 

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Okay so you've done the right stuff and now you know where things stand.


Regarding the question about the hose (which is shown in the service manual), there is a typical automotive black rubber hose coming out of the silencer airbox and in all the bikes I've seen it just dangles someplace near the right side cover. Some riders put a krank vent orfilter on the end of this hose to capture drips from hard acceleration gearbox pressures. Most often its just an empty end. Some replace it with a longer hose and run it out the battery box and dangle it near the front of the rear tire behind the battery box, most often near where the rear master cylinder mounts. The odds of this hose plugging are remote.


Thanks to your efforts today checking these things out, the odds seem to be shifting to 'its a kinked or sliced o-ring let the dealer handle it and don't admit to trying to fix it!'


fake said:
well, I just spent 2 hours taking the tank off and checking all the tubes and cleaning them out. I also unscrewed the screws to the push rod assembly and let it sit awhile before I re-tightened them to the 7.2 lbs with a tq wrench. If this doesn't work, I'll go in on Monday to make an appointment to get it fixed. I have been searching this site by searching "oil leak" and this appears to be a common problem. Not a large problem but many people have experienced what I am experencing right now.
 

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So those thins happen to others too, I feel a little better. I loved that story!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks!





I ordered a Crank Vent to see if the oil leak stops. I spoke with another officer I work with, who has been working on MC's for 20+ years. He said this will probably solve my oil leak problem. I just need to go buy a longer hose and filter so I don't hear the dang thing.
 
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