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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an old Power Commander i want to remove and just make changes to ECU. Can I simply just unplug it or do i need to do more than that to remove it? Seems to be a cable running up under the fuel tank.
 

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Is it a PC serial, or a PC3USB? I'm not versed in the serial. The USB model can be set to zero map so it has no effect. See the Power Commander website for instructions.


To un-install you need to be careful when you remove the connection at the TPS (right side between the jugs). That is the wire runningup under the fuel tank. If you stretch or break that TPS wire you'll want to drink beer and jump off a ledge. Be sure which wire belongs to the power commander and cut it, cap it, and tape it or what ever until you have time to remove that pesky connector. The newer PC's have a TPS plugat long last.


Removing the PC (or setting it to zero map)puts your ECU back in control. If you are the original owner of the bike then you will know if anyone has done an ECU bump before. If yes, those bumped settings take over again. Anyway, do a search for ECU BUMP or look thru the popular mods post under ECU for some helpful links.


This is a topic you might want to read a lot about first. You can open a can of worms real easy.


If you do BUMP your ECU remember to keep track of where you started by writing down the existingCO1 and CO2 numbers before you BUMP. That way you can go home again. Some guys write the original CO1 and CO2 numbers in their owners manual so if you are not the first owner, look there in case you get lucky.


You'll also need to know how to 'read' spark plugs. Look under SPARK PLUGS in popular mods for some charts. Plus the web is littered with them.


cltgt said:
I have an old Power Commander i want to remove and just make changes to ECU. Can I simply just unplug it or do i need to do more than that to remove it? Seems to be a cable running up under the fuel tank.
 

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There has been some debate as to wether or not the ECU adjustments effect the entire powerband, or just the idle. If I was you, I'd just continue to use your old power commander. Does the bike run correctly? Why do you want to remove it?
 

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Tell us more about why you want to lose the PC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, I want to replace it with a USB PC since no one around here want s to mess with tuning a serial PC. I am going with the V-BAK and I pulled the baffles from the V&H Big Shots. The bike runs fine,but it will need to be tuned to run correctly. I have not pulled the plugs to check them yet. Looks like I need to remove some stuff to do that. Need to get a manual...


To get back on track, If it is best to run a Power Commander, I will. I just need to upgrade it as the one thatis on there looks to be the first Power Commander ever built... :^)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It is a PC Serial. As a way to make money, shops keep saying I need to upgrade in order for them to tune my bike as they don't "have the capability" to work on a serial PC anymore...
 

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cltgt said:
It is a PC Serial. As a way to make money, shops keep saying I need to upgrade in order for them to tune my bike as they don't "have the capability" to work on a serial PC anymore...

You can keep the serial PC3 & add some fuel with the ECU CO adjustments. Since an O2 sensor is not in the system the ECU & PC3 work on preprogrammed parameters. Its a speed density open loop system. It operates the same as your cage if the check engine light is on.(open loop)


I have not checked in awhile but you should be able to download maps for it from the dyno jet web site.


As far as checking the plugs for color. You do not have to remove the fuel tank & air box to check all the spark plugs for color. Just check the 2 left side plugs which are accessable without removing anything but the spark plug wires. Be sure to use compressed air & blow out any debris around the plugs before removal.


Let us not get started with the ecu only works at idle thing because that statement is not true.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I like where you are going with this.. I will look into how to make changes to the ECU for more fuel. I'd rather just leave the PC in place since it is working.


The maps your are talking about, are they for the PC?


As far as ECu at idle, I agree. It works in the same way a car ECU does and has to be able to manage at idle, p.o.t and w.o.t.


Also, i will pm you price V-Bak Price. I know you sent it a long time ago, but I got so wrapped up in making the Cobra faster that I have neglected the Mighty Warrior!
 
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