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Discussion Starter #1
On acceleration bike cuts out/than back on like someone hit the kill switch. 2 weeks ago it did the same thing than died. Waited a few and started back up. drove a little and it did it again. Next morning started right up and drove her hard with no problems. (cooler) I Replaced the 3 usb commander with a new 5 commander. It is only doing it when it is 108 or so. I rode it all morning and even got on it real hard and she was fine until i took it out in the afternoon heat. Anyone else have this issue? She has 22k on her Bubs pipes barons vbak. Fuel break is good. Im at a loss any help would be great! All recalls have been done according to Yamaha.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
okay did the mod and didn't pay attention and super glued it the wrong way! doooh! But caught it before it was to late! Still doing same thing but now its all the time. At first it was only when it is was hot. Im leaning more to the tps or the pickup coil. I did replace handle bars today but Ive been having this issue for 2 weeks now. is there a way to test the pick up coil and the tps? Yes I know how to use a multi-meter. Also before i replaced the programmer i got error codes 15 and 19 and 26 which all control spark? I put new programmer in and reset codes and i don't have any codes now. The commander 3 usb was not installed with the perfect install. The one code i think is because i tried putting it in gear with kickstand down! here is bike with new bars!
249471
 

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okay did the mod and didn't pay attention and super glued it the wrong way! doooh! But caught it before it was to late! Still doing same thing but now its all the time. At first it was only when it is was hot. Im leaning more to the tps or the pickup coil. I did replace handle bars today but Ive been having this issue for 2 weeks now. is there a way to test the pick up coil and the tps? Yes I know how to use a multi-meter. Also before i replaced the programmer i got error codes 15 and 19 and 26 which all control spark? I put new programmer in and reset codes and i don't have any codes now. The commander 3 usb was not installed with the perfect install. The one code i think is because i tried putting it in gear with kickstand down! here is bike with new bars! View attachment 249471
My suggestion was for you to read-up on this, not to do the mod until we could help determine cause. But if you glued it wrong way and now it happens all the time then its a problem now even if the real problem was elsewhere before.

Lets use our time to talk about things and get the picture square first.

You have added a lot more info versus original post. Could you provide a timeline for each item. It might be best to start over from a time when it ran fine, and maybe a repair or mod was done after which this started. Or if the trouble started with no precursor then begin there.

And lets find out what disassembly and or testing you have done, with observations and results. Assumptions just cloud things.

What year is your bike?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
02 Warrior -Yes I did do the mood wrong but I caught it before it set. Timeline. here goes i will try my best.
A year ago I went to bobs bike bash for pch event and after the rev up, when we hit the freeway about 3 miles up the 51 hwy it dies for about 3 to 4 seconds. then came back on and has been fine for 10 months. Ive put 2500 miles on it since then.
4 weeks ago- I tired 2 different tunes on my bike that i had used before, With no problems. 1 tune it was kind of sputtering on hard acceleration and the other tune it loaded up like it was going to die. I think these issues were because of the programmer. with the 2 grounds going to frame and not the digital ground. Programmer was from 2004. so 16 years old and under a seat that kept getting squashed.
3 weeks ago- Oil change and filter pods cleaning. Which require moving the tank. found a bad gas house gong to the tank under the seat and replace it. .
2 weeks ago during a 300 mile ride it cut out about 30 miles from home. but only for a second. Came back on. as i got closer to home it did it again.twice! when i was about 6ish miles from home it died. Coasted to a stop. I tried starting it and nothing. put kickstand down and opened tank (i thought vapor lock) no hiss like escaping gas. tired to start nothing. Called my daughter to come get me. Got off the phone and started up. Drove a mile or 2 and it died again. Got it started again after a few min drove almost all the way home for it to die about 3/4 mile from home. I tired to start but battery was pretty much tired of me cranking on it. So i didn't want to kill it all of the way. I pushed the bike home in 114 temp. (yes it sucked) I got on the forum and learned about the perfect install through ArizonaWarrior- I did it and she seemed to be back on cue. But giving the age of the programmer and the fact that I have smashed it I figured i would replace it. Talked to tech support from dyno jet and they said it "could be causing the problem" But not making any guarantees. the old unit was a commander III usb. The computer was giving me error codes 15 and 19 and 26 I replaced it with new commander 5 with a map/tune they installed and she came alive felt like more power (probably in my head). I went out at Noon in 107 temp and went to the store. Left and hit the freeway/northern express way and maxed it out. Never had done that before as I had a faring on it and it would buffer and vibrate the front end. No problems with it off. So I rode it hard for a good time. Never any problems.
this week-
I put new bars on it Friday night. Rode to a buddy's house Saturday morning and ran great. Let my buddy ride my bike with the new bars and faring off and he was amazed at how fast she was. He is a HD owner. I rode around and then went home for 2 hours. Had to be somewhere at 2pm so I wanted to make sure bike was good and took it out. It was 110. Running good at the start. Stopped got gas. Started heading to my destination and than a quick little cut out. Than another. I turned around and headed home It did it about 6 times but I made it home.
I did the lean sensor last night at first i did glue it wrong but i caught it and fixed it before glue set. When the lean sensor is not working the check engine light will flash. Thats how I knew it was wrong. I pulled it apart and redid it and she fired right up. Went around the block and she cut out several times again.
Thats the best I can recall. currently there are no codes.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
cps check= My meter does not do ohms x100. But i think this is right not sure may have to go get another meter?
 

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You've been busy. No worries, as you know the ohms vary with temperature.

From your recent history, I would agree the LAS was probably not your culprit and its good to have it off-the-table.

Next are the fuel and vent lines between the main (top) fuel tank and the auxiliary (underseat) fuel tank. You said the drybreaks are okay and separately you said that when you opened the fuel filler door there was NO SOUND of rushing-air due to vacuum.

Thing is, sometimes the vacuum temporarily resolves itself and the loss-of-fuel symptom occurs at the same time as fuel might flow a bit more (coincidentally from force of vacuum in cases where a hose is crushed).

When you open the fuel filler door you can see the underside of the cap, and down into the filler opening. There should be an orange-ish rubber hole assembly beneath the filler door hinge. Check for cracks or damage.

There is a vent line between the main-tank and the auxiliary tank via the underseat drybreak. The lower portion of that vent line is rubber hose and it sometimes gets crushed between the bike frame and the underside of the main fuel tank. Check for signs of crushing, and be certain the route is clear for that rubber hose. If its crushed too much it creates vacuum lock. If its crushed to a certain lesser extent then the rate of fuel demand can momentarily outpace flow, but it recovers quickly. Maybe your symptom.

Lets see about taking all these bits off the table. Go ahead and disconnect both drybreaks (left side and underseat) just because. Spray WD40 into both female halves. Reconnect gently until audible click is heard. Then pull the two tank nuts and gently raise the tail of the tank just an inch or two and gently insert a block of some sort to hold it up. Have a look at where that rubber hose is routed. Notice any obstructions that would crimp the hose when the tank is bolted down.

While here, be aware that 2002 bikes had fastener issues and a recall was issued to correct the tank bolt-down height above the frame/bracket. Go to the recall documents and notice the fastener-parts and their precise installation order to maintain the needed height. Of course the recall was intended to raise the tank to avoid ripping the bottom welds off the underside of the tank. But raising the tank to that height also may create that hint of extra room for the vent hose. Who knows. So its worth revisiting the fuel tank recall documents just to be certain you have all the bits in the correct order before bolting the tank down. Rare as this issue might be.

I realize you might have glanced at those bits before, but lets do this as its own focused task. Lets get it off the table to your satisfaction before moving forward.

One last thing in mind, but for now keep it mentally-separate to avoid expensive mistakes. The Warrior fuel pump has an internal relief valve so if the fuel hose pressure 'exceeds' spec then it believes the fuel line is clogged so the relief valve sends fuel back to the underseat fuel tank. That fuel line could be clogged crimped crudded-up or the hard fuel filter inside the auxiliary fuel tank, at the bottom/input of the fuel pump itself, could be clogged. Rare. But Burp.
 

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Okay im not sure, but might this be the culprit? I replaced this hose because the old one was worn out and cracked through. But if you look at the pic it looks like the hose is collapsing and cutting off fuel? I changed it before i went for the ride 3 weeks ago when i did oil change. I would think the first 300 miles it didnt pinch over enough to cause a fuel restriction.
249479
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I moistened the dry break at the aux tank when i replace the line. But thinking back Im wondering if I didn't have 2 problems originally or the same one causing multiple issues. It was fine the last couple of time I rode after replacing commander. Had to move the tank relieving the pinch line. Didnt fill up tank. Now fill up tank and the line pinch might be an issue. Is there a dry brake i can get for the left side of the bike where it is mickey Moused together? No i didnt do this to the bike I got it this way.
 

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keyman6868;

arizonawarrior has got you on track with this trouble shooting. As for your asking about the dry brake for the left side, I am attaching the oem schematic for the 2002 RSW tank
assembly (your bike). You can buy either an all new oem set-up thru a vendor like partzilla (look at schematic and order appropriate parts) or ebay has a ton of used ones on
that site. I typed in "Yamaha Road Star Warrior fuel lines" and up they popped. The only bad thing about buying on Ebay is you never know if it is serviceable or not. You might
put up a "Wanted" post on this forum for the required part(s) as these guys are family and we do try to look out for each other. Worth a shot....I hope this helps and Good luck
as I think you might have found the culprit with azw's help. Let us know how it turns out.
Rg
 

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Okay im not sure, but might this be the culprit? I replaced this hose because the old one was worn out and cracked through. But if you look at the pic it looks like the hose is collapsing and cutting off fuel? I changed it before i went for the ride 3 weeks ago when i did oil change. I would think the first 300 miles it didnt pinch over enough to cause a fuel restriction. View attachment 249479
Yes that appears to be the vent line. On my phone the pic appears to show with the tail of the tank lifted, is that right? I see the crease, its not shown crimped where it would have an impact. But if the tank is in fact lifted in the pic then observe hose as tank is lowered into position for crimping. Move the hose into the stock 'route' under there where space already exists. If the replacement hose is a different length it can impact that route.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yes sir tank was lifted! Ordering a new hose today! Will keep you posted as to the outcome! Thank you again for all of your help.
 

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Okay. This is a shaped hose so ordering it stock is fine. Its also possible to use a heat gun to shape the undertank end of a length of store-bought hose well enough but its a pita slow process and not as good a bend result. Or buy a good quality 90-degree barbed 'L' in the correct diameter to effect the bend. This need assumes your hose is indeed impacting things and kinking enough when tank is installed. It shows signs of bending. Maybe its worth a shot just to get it off the table.

While waiting, next free step is corrosion check on the ignition coil primary wires. Five minutes if you have stock coils. The rear jug is #1. Follow the spark plug wire from the back jug to the coil. That coil serves #1. It should have black-red and black-orange wires. #2 should have black-red and black-white wires. Both stock primary wires have copper push-on spade connectors. Gently pull off one connector at a time, wire-brush or similar dry clean connector and spade, gently push-on to replace. Observe for obvious signs of broken wires or insulation damage. The sort of ignition interruption you might get from it seems to differ from what you describe, but words can be subjective so lets get rid of this in a five minute zap.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
When I put the new commander 5 on after the break down ride it was connected to the coils. I have the plate under the tank with cut out for the coils and some sort of sensors. I made sure all of the connections were tight when i did it as a couple when pushed on felt loose. so i crimped them tight. But just to save face I will pull tank and check them tonight when i get home.
 
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