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Keeping this separate from my post a moment ago. Once you get to this point, its time to ride, and to see if the symptom appears again. If it does, then you need to look into the wet fuel lines starting at the main fuel tank outlet . . . where there is a special rubber gasket and a mesh filter to replace (plus you MUST study the 'sprung a fuel leak' thread to become aware of the interference-fit coupling issue). Follow the line through the left-side to the undertank nipple. Then check the e-manual for the high pressure fuel lines after the fuel pump all the way to the fuel injectors. Act delicately. Observe every line for damage or indicators. There is a spot you can pull the line and prep the bike so you can observe fuel being pumped from the line into a can/jar and even inspect for debris. Then comes the question of the injectors themselves. One might be clogging but that symptom might differ from what you posted. Words are subjective. So if you have to hunt this path suggest you send-out the injectors for cleaning and flow test. Do an advanced search here for fuel injector cleaning. I have a spare set of injectors so can swap without delay and have the removed ones cleaned rebuilt tested. I have only needed to do it once in all these years. But bikes that are stored for years can go gunky funky.

In my sigpic is a link to my bike data thread that for now is posted in the Welcome Mat. Scroll to fuel injectors for by-mail source for injector rebuilds. BTW these are 4-hole injectors and sturdy. If you get a spare set then get stock or at least get a known major brand exact same specs. An Advanced search here for fuel injectors will yield a lot of good info.

Walking gently here. Keep in mind that this bike was cutting edge and Star was in fact a new Yamaha subsidiary and an American company registered and based in California, and in particular Warrior design took place in San Diego and Cypress Calif. So there were certain changes from previous Yamaha cruisers. Heck there were times things had to be discovered. So some early posts ended up being wrong. We all suffered it. Sometimes still do. Poorly or un-documented things took tackling to figure out. I mention this because careful reading will show some posts are wrong. One place is injectors. It turns out the stock injectors are great, and can supply more fuel than a stock motor needs. The speedstar injectors have a place. Plus turbo and super charging can benefit from more bigger faster. But otherwise most everyone tends to indicate the best bet are stock injectors. Its interesting to study.

Anyway, I hope this seemingly off-topic info helps you keep an eye out for tips and indicators that might send you down the right path on this pesky trouble. If you have to get into fuel rails and injectors and the symptom appears again then it will be necessary to hunt by hand into some electrical relays and sensors. It can get expensive. So hoping we stumble across the simple solution first!
 

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When I put the new commander 5 on after the break down ride it was connected to the coils. I have the plate under the tank with cut out for the coils and some sort of sensors. I made sure all of the connections were tight when i did it as a couple when pushed on felt loose. so i crimped them tight. But just to save face I will pull tank and check them tonight when i get home.
They are likely fine then. Have a look next time you are under there just to calm. But you did that work yourself so would know wassup already.

The relocated sensors are: 3 identical air pressure sensors (one for each jug intake plus one for ambient that does NOT get a vacuum hose) and each has a dedicated electrical plug that must serve the same intake as the vacuum hose. Usually mix-ups here generate error codes and more consistent troubles so no worries.

We were both typing at the same time so check my follow-up post a few minutes ago (just before this one).
 

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Discussion Starter #23
After replacing the fuel line with a 90 problem is still there. So i have gone through so many forum post on leaks. lol I do think i need to check the throttle position sensor as it had that spade attached to it and wonder if the might be causing interference. Im going to pull tank again pull up the wire harness and pull it off and solder the wire than put some shrink tubing on it. Don't think it will help but at least I can rule it out and check the wire harness. I think if it was fuel injection issue it wouldn't run good and miss a little or detonate. It is running with no hesitations and gets on it. Every once in a while it just feels like someone throws the kill switch off than on! I never ddid measure the ohms at the off and on switch so I will also check that. But I don't think it is bad. I will do these 2 things first and post back. If you think of anything let me know. Thanks in advanced
 

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Good work. And good idea to check the condition of the yellow TPS wire after having removed the crimp connector from prior owner's PCiii.

Once that is done, you can go digging into the underseat relay rack. Look for the Fuel Injection and Start Circuit (logic) relay. Remove it from the rack and pull the connector plug and look for corrosion or broken wires:

  • Start Circuit Relay: 5PX-81950-00-00 (2002-2003) so your relay will have this number on it.
  • Start Circuit Relay: 5KS-81950-30-00 (2004-2009) for those with newer model years who stumble across this in the future.
There is an old thread about where to find the turn signal flasher, and it has pics for how to access the relay rack. Its got push-pin fasteners so knowing which to pull and steps in order is a real help.

After this, if you have not done so recently, go ahead and locate the frame ground lug near the oil filler cap under the rider seat. Re-check for corrosion and be certain its tight but don't break off the stud lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Also I was wondering if replacing the cps is good insurance? The bike is 18 years old and they are a known issue on a lot of Yamaha to start having problems and not throwing codes. Whats do you think?
 

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I believe you indicated all recalls had been done by dealer? Its possible for the recall part to fail but not common. Its also possible the installer cut the wires to install the pick-up coil ( cps) faster, but its also not the norm.

So these bits were low on my list but you will find threads and posts about finding cut cps wires after recall cps installed. That will possibly help you visually check without all the dismantling trouble.

I'm going to be with a friend in the hospital for awhile today so might be out of touch. No worries others here can jump-in if you have specific questions. Later bro.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
okay so new update. I checked all my wires going to coils and such. even replace CPS still same thing! Ohm out yellow wire to tps and it was .000. from original commander 3. I pulled the commander 5 and took it off of the bike then i rechecked everything. Did not put commander 5 back on. Put bike back together. Dang no more shut off. Maybe original problem was the fuel line that had bent under the tank. Causing vapor lock? Not sure. Don't know why the commander would cause this problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Put commander back on bike per dyno jet and hooked up only fuel injection side and ran great, They think maybe an issue with that side of electrical connection to coils. but in all fairness it might be the plate under the tank causing the issues. not sure still waiting!.
 
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