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Discussion Starter #1
So I searched the forum for some cheap alternatives to paint a couple extra covers and parts to match the stock titanium color and after my trip to walmart and $22.50 in primer, Midnight Black Metallic paint and crystal clear I have a question for those in the know about painting.


The colorcan says that a color coat can be applied to the primer immediately. The primer cansays that it take 15-30 minutes to be dry to the touch and 48 hours-ish till it's 100% dry. Thecolor can also says that you should apply the crystal clear about 10 minutes after you finish the final color coat. I guess i want to make sure I don't screw up or waste down time for nothing but what I am getting out of this is that you prime it, 5 minutes later yougo ahead with the color coats and 10 minutes after however many color coats you are going to do you should start applying the clear coats...does that sound right to you guys or should I be waiting a coupe hours,or whatever, in between primer, color and then clear. Any advice you guys may have would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks, Roger
 

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I have not used the product that you are using but I have done some painting. I think you might want to wait the 30 min between primer and color coat. 10 min between color and clear sounds about right. You want the color coat to tack up but not dry before you apply the clear. If you don't allow some time for the color coat to flash you might get runs if you apply the clear immediately. Just my 2 cents ( I am in no way a painting professional).
 

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Rogerswarrior said:
I sure do wish we could get some painting pros to offer up some advice before I screw this thing up.
Yea, i bought a Fuji hvlp paint sprayer and would like to paint my tins a new color on the warrior and would like some advice from a painting pro. Any advice from fellow forum members who are also an experienced painter ?
 

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Ive only used rattle can rustoleum with awesome results. ruff the surface up, clean thoroghly, apply 2 very light coats, wait 15 min, apply a thickercoat. If there were irregularities in the prepped piece (such as scratches or pitting) I will then leave it over night, sand smooth then apply final 2 coats. If there are no blemishes then I leave it for about an hour then apply final 2 coats with 15 min in between. So, in effect Im using the paint itself as bondo to fix the blemishes. Rustoleum is VERY thick so its no problem.
 

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Ok I Painted my bike with good results. Make sure your prep work is good a good can of aircraft paint remover is in store. Clean all tins down to metal. wash the tins with soap and water and allow at least 2 hrs to dry and the fumes form the stripper to dry. fyi gloves and a breather dust mask is required this stuff will take your skin and burn it like scalding water. THen prime and allow to flash good and dry. Then apply multi thin coats of color spray very lightly and insure coverage. as your coats of paint get thicker allow more drying time. you should be able to do all the paint in one day. allow at least 1hr between coats. Then get a hose and some 1500 grit sand paper and wet sand slowly and clean out the orange peal out of the paint. no power sanders you will burn the edges around the gas lip and around the edges of the rear fender and really piss your self off. this is the most important step becaue if you dont get all the peal out your clear will look like aZZ. After sanding and the stuff drys good. Apply clear in the same fasion as the paint. Off the shelf clear dose not have the fast drying agents that real body work products has it tends to be softer and not as resistant to gas and heel marks. like when you get on your bike and your heel scuffs the rear fender. once the clear is done go back and clean up the peal in the clear. then take a very light buffing compound and lightly with a buffer compound and clean up the rest of the clear do not go over 10k rpms on the buffer or your can burn the clear. then wax and buff to your hearts content. and be carfull putting it all back togeather. this will take all weekend. see my bike the blue is all my work and you can ask any one from Bo's bash or Garner warrior its a good rattle can job not professional but it looks sweet. i have about 30 hrs in sanding and painting to get what you see.





Best of Luck Jim





Jimbo
 

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Sorry Rogerswarrior i didn't mean to hijack your thread. Hopefully with other forum members answers that helped you out. Thats a decent looking paint job Marine Warrior. I know a good paint job is all in the prep work. Just one question, do you sand down the primer before the color paint? I bought the hvlp sprayer to paint my car, bike and i can use it to do some house painting as well. I'm going to an auto paint store and get some quality paint and tackle painting my bike this winter. Thanks for the advice.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
No problem at all man. I was beginning to think I wasn't going to get any help. Thanks for the inject and good luck on your winter project.


Roger
06_warrior said:
Sorry Rogerswarrior i didn't mean to hijack your thread. Hopefully with other forum members answers that helped you out. Thats a decent looking paint job Marine Warrior. I know a good paint job is all in the prep work. Just one question, do you sand down the primer before the color paint? I bought the hvlp sprayer to paint my car, bike and i can use it to do some house painting as well. I'm going to an auto paint store and get some quality paint and tackle painting my bike this winter. Thanks for the advice.
 

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I painted my lower cowl and tach cowl. I went to the local NAPA, which is a PPG paint store. The paint guy came out with a little contraption and stuck it on the side of my rear fender and then said to come back in an hour. I came back and he had two spray bombs. The color matches almost perfectly. Thought that may help if you were having trouble with the exact color. I also believe that you can order spray bombs from a company that matches warrior/motorcycle paint exactly, just cant remember their name...colorrite
 

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You should call Maurice. He paints over at his school. He did a great job on his lower cowl for his Warrior.
 

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I would love to help here, but I have no experience with rattle cans. I would like to say, if there's no bodywork or rust, never take anything your going to paint to bare metal, bare plastic, etc. Your primer will stick better to existing paint than other materials. Now if your going to shoot a self etching epoxy primer/sealer, take it down. Just trying to save you heartache at some point and time. With most paint/color coats though, shoot your primer and follow directions for how long to wait before color. Then follow directions on each color/clear about time in between coats and dry time. I have seen some good rattlecan jobs. When in doubt, follow the directions on the cans. Good luck!!
 

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Hey guys If you are looking for some quality paint you might want to google TCP global. They have great colors and they will answer all your questions on the phone. Irecently bought paint for my wifes and my bike. I got mine painted but will re due it because of some problems laying down the candie flames. They are some good guys with a lot of info. Prices are great as well. Just thought I would let yall know what I found.


Aaron
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So, I did a few thin coats and it looked okay. I got home and after letting it dry for a few (5) hours and applied another clear coat and it ran a little.


Can I let it dry with the runs, sand it with super high grit sandpaper and then recoat with clear for a super finish or should I start over again from the primer stage?


Roger
 

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Ive been garage painting for 30yrs. the most important but is get a tack cloth tack ,prime when dry to touch (depending on temp and humidty no set time) 600grit sand tackclothe paint go all differnt directions with each coat (go up one coat sisde to side next etc) atleast 4 coats. when tacky put on light coat of clear let that get tacky if u dont want to buff out last coat of clear is shiny thenSTOP thatIT dont think that looks great one more is better. Look on at my 4.7 gal tank in forum thats painted with met rustolium paint and poly clear coat till this winter
 
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