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My power commander should be showing up any day and I wanted to ask the gang what map would be best (i'm clueless).


I am running open headers andI removed the AIS.


I have also adjusted the ECU should I return it to stock settings before I install the PC, or does the PC totally over ride the ECU?
 

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It depends on the pipes, air intake, AIS, and ECU settings apparently. DynoJet has a ton of maps available on their website to choose from, and there are a bunch on this site from people who have customized maps.


I started with a standard PCIII site map, that kind of matched my setup, but I didn't like the way the bike ran. So, I searched the site and found the AmosPro map, and that added some power to my ride, but still tons of backfiring and popping. I did some more hunting here, and found the RX_Warrior map, which is a modified version of the AmosPro map, and it dialed everything in; smooth low rpm's, lots of top end power, no gaps, no backfires, no pops, etc.


I currently run open pipes (Samson Street Sweepers), AIS block off, Baron's BAK, and the PCIII (with the Perfect Install completed and 0% throttle position set), and the RX_Warrior map. I dynoed 82 HP and 98 ft lbs before the map upgrade and the perfect install. I know I'm getting better results from the bike now. If your setup is similar to mine, I recommend trying the map I'm using. Just do a search for RX_Warrior and go to his page and send him an email. He has been very helpful to me.
 

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I am curious about if the pc3 totally over rides the stock ecu also. I am sure my ecu was bumped up when I got the bike also and have tried a few maps and always seems to be a little rich. When I had it on a dyno the tq came in higher than I thought but the hp was way lower than it should of been so definatly have some issues here.
 

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Make sure you add settings for 500rpm into your PC3 data chart. When settings are the same for the 500rpm and 1,000rpmdata lines in your PC3USB it manages the idle speed. Still its a good idea to set theECU back to where OEM set it since it will save expense should your bike ever go into a shop. Imagine the poor mechanic sweating over why the air:fuel at idle sucks, or if the PC3 has to come off for a procedure it'll be even more confusing to them.


When setting up your PC3USB remember the step to set zero% throttle and 100% throttle. There's a how-to video on their website. There's a jump right to it in Popular Mods under ECU.
 

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I amhearing that the ECU settings only effect the bike at idle, and that a PCIII map doesn't negate those settings, but stands on top of them. So, if your map is set to "+5" in the 0% throttle position at 750 or 1000 rpms and your ECU is bumped +2 you will actually have a idle position of "+7". That's just an example.


I had the shop reset my ECU to "0" values for front and rear cylinders. In this way, the map I am running is accurate across the board, and I have full adjustment capability through my PCIII, without having to worry about ghost numbers. The bike runs alot better at idle than it did when my ECU settings were "-8". I don't feel any difference throughout the rest of the rpm range.
 

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I'm very interested in that information, it might help flesh-out one of the info-vacuums in the knowledge base.


We're not confirmed yet that an ECU bump, which appears to only affect idle rpm, will be cumulative if the PC3USB is installed. I'm hearing both ways and the weight right now is on the over-ride (which is what the PC3 does in above-idle rpm's also). If you don't include a line for rpm's lower thanidle (~950rpm) then it seems clear the PC3 won't do anything to idle air:fuel. But the rest isn't very clear yet. I'm waiting for a DynoJet response but they are out riding too!


You might want to knowthat your ECU was factory by thefactory, probably not to zero, but to what ever it needed to be to burn clean (which in this case also maximizes power). So my question would be, do you know who bumped the ECU and did they record the original factory settings?The settings might be written in the owner's manual, maybe maybe.


More help from the Popular Mods topic in the Technical forum:


ECU - Factory Settings: (each cylinder custom set at factory so always write down and save original settings)
ECU - Diagnostic Codes: http://rswarrior.com/forums/t/465.aspx
ECU - Bump or PCIIIUSB: http://rswarrior.com/forums/t/118550.aspx
ECU - Bump (record original settings): http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/22346/282238.aspx
ECU - Bump (record original settings): http://rswarrior.com/forums/t/48956.aspx


Justice said:
I amhearing that the ECU settings only effect the bike at idle, and that a PCIII map doesn't negate those settings, but stands on top of them. So, if your map is set to "+5" in the 0% throttle position at 750 or 1000 rpms and your ECU is bumped +2 you will actually have a idle position of "+7". That's just an example.


I had the shop reset my ECU to "0" values for front and rear cylinders. In this way, the map I am running is accurate across the board, and I have full adjustment capability through my PCIII, without having to worry about ghost numbers. The bike runs alot better at idle than it did when my ECU settings were "-8". I don't feel any difference throughout the rest of the rpm range.
 
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