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Discussion Starter #1
Updated 8-04-06

This install covers ALL years of Warriors to date.

If your Warrior cuts out, has dead spots, a wacky throttle response off idle or a dyno tuner that goes nuts trying to get you a good custom map follow these instructions. It will fix 99% of these issues unless you have a broken CPS.


Many people have experienced that the PCIII setup as described in its manual is not perfect. The TPS read out in particular is a problem. Instead of a steady TPS signal the PCIII (regular and USB) jumps around pretty wild. This causes not only shops to do custom maps to take a lot longer to get it right but can also lead to less than perfect throttle response of your Warrior.

The solution is very simple and is highly recommended for EVERY Warrior PCIII owner.

IMPORTANT: When looking for the right wires please make sure that the first color is the base color and the second on is the strip on it. So black/blue for example is a black wire with a blue strip.

Start with the gray PCIII TPS hookup wire: Pull it back through the insulation to have it come out pretty close of the PCIII. Depending on where you install the PCIII you only need a few inches of gray wire. Check first before you cut it too short.
Now locate the solid yellow wire that runs into the ECU. Be aware that there are several wires that have a least part yellow marking on them. There is only one solid yellow wire (it might have some gold markers on it as all the wires).
Cut that wire, take the insulation off both ends, twist the gray wire around one of those ends, push a piece of shrink tubing over the other yellow end and solder the connection back together. Last but not least push the shrink tubing back over the solder joint and heat shrink it.
The second connection that is even more important is the PCIII digital ground. The Warrior uses a digital ground wire for all its sensors to reduce noise. The PCIII comes with a digital ground wire but unfortunately as it is sold it is connected to regular ground. When you pull back the insulation of the PCIII ground wire you will find two wires ending at the ground connector: One is black (regular ground) and the other one is black/white (digital ground). Cut the black/white wire and pull it back to the same exit you used to run the gray wire. The black/white wire will need to be approximately the same length as the gray wire. Now find the black/blue wire that runs into the ECU. There is only one.
Do the same thing as before but now splice the black/white (PCIII) wire into the black/blue (ECU) wire and heat shrink the solder joint.
Install the PCIII in its final location and you are done.

Now when you hookup a laptop of dyno computer to the PCIII the TPS signal on a running Warrior should be rock steady and the bike should run cleaner and very crisp. If not you might adjust the map you are currently running.

Hope this helps!

Oliver
 

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Instead of running the grey wire all the way to the TPS connect it under the seat at the ECU. Saves the headache of having to wire it at the TPS and keeps it out of the weather too.
 

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JP - wish I'd of thought of that. I didn't trust that clamp, so I stripped the wire slightly to be sure I got good contact then used some silicone to weatherproof it. It has been working fine, so far. Knock on wood.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
quote:Originally posted by jimboman

Oliver,

Did soldering the PCIII tap to TPS sensor fix your 2500 rpm flat spot?


Yep!

Smooth like silk.... [/emoticons/emotion-2.gif]
 

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In all honesty that wiring suggestion I made was not mine, I saw it on RGwarriors, TFI fuel nanny equipped bike. Aparrantly it's part of their instructions but not Dynojets.
 

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quote:Originally posted by amospro

JIMBO, quit asking questions and do what the man says before Oct 4th. /emoticons/emotion-5.gif


Not to worry, I'll be breaking out the soldering iron this weekend... Think I should bring it on the trip [/emoticons/emotion-5.gif]? Thanks for this info, Oliver. Has anyone considered giving these feedback to Dynojet? Maybe they would consider reworking the connectors on the PCIII to be a little more water resistant.
 

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It would've made more sense to tap the wire under the seat.... Frankenstein, did you "t" solder the wire or cut the TPS wire and twist solder.......
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I cut the wire and twist soldered one end of the bike's wire and the PCIII wire. I then pushed a heat shrink tube over the two connected wires but behind the actual connection and soldered the remaining wire (towards the TPS) inline as if it would be a T- connection. That way you can push the shrink tube over the solder connection and shrink it to become resistent to water - although water does not present a real problem once soldered.
 

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Meat get your manual out and check it for the TPS wire (yellow) back to the ECU. There are several yellow wires but with the wiring diagram you can figure this out fairly easily. It's the only solid yellow wire coming out of the connector, next to it is a blank also.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Since many people have contacted me recently about the correct PCIII install I have updated the main post on this thread to reflect the very perfect setup.
 

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Great info, Oliver, thanks.
My tech had a rough time with the TPS signal all over the place. Wonder if I need to remap once I do this????
 
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