Oliver,

What are the lean, stoich and rich values on your meter equivalent to an actual A/F ratio (ie: 10:1)?

 

This is probably a foolish question, but I'll ask anyway. Where your gauges initially made for a car? If yes, how much trouble was it to "convert" or "make work"? BTW your bike looks great and I love that pipe. If Yamaha ever puts in on there site for sale, I'm in trouble.

 

quote:Originally posted by TJarrettB1

This is probably a foolish question, but I'll ask anyway. Where your gauges initially made for a car? If yes, how much trouble was it to "convert" or "make work"? BTW your bike looks great and I love that pipe. If Yamaha ever puts in on there site for sale, I'm in trouble.



Jarrett,

Yes those are car gauges. Simply got chromed billet cups from CycleImage to mounte the gauges. Then there is wiring. For the oil Temp and pressure you need to install sensor hookups or the Wimmer Oil cooler kit that has those hookups optionally. For the exhaust gats temp you simply drill one of the header pipes and insert the high temp sensor. For the A/F meter you need to purchase a car type O2 sensor and get a threaded nut welded onto your exhaust system, as close as possible to the place where gases from both cylinders get together.
Then you need to find some gooud ground and 12V inside the head light to wire up all those gauges. My O2 sensor is heated and requires 2-3 amps so I hooked it up to the front running lights as I have replaced them with LEDs. Not only do I get my power from there it also solved the shtutdown problem of the ECU with the kill switch in off and the bike in gear.
The only real mod I had to come up with was a filter for the O2 signal line. When originally installed, the A/F meter would have 6-10 LEDs light up. The reason for that being that the O2 sensor is very fast and any kind of 'noise' you get on the signal line will show. I built a simple highband filer with two capacitors that 'shorten' everything but very low frequencies. Now I have only 1 LED the lights up most of the time and the display is still fast enough to make a sweep from rich to ultra lean (when you roll off the throttle and decelerate) in less than 1/4 a second.

Have fun!

Oliver

 

quote:Originally posted by jimboman

Oliver,

What are the lean, stoich and rich values on your meter equivalent to an actual A/F ratio (ie: 10:1)?


jimbo,

I have not mapped the LEDs to there values yet but you just go me something to do. Here we go:

The O2 sensor has the following curve:

Image Insert:

That curve is mapped against the LEDs like that:

Image Insert:

That makes the stoich/yellow area very sensitive for a ratio of 14.7
The rich/green LEDs cover 10.5-14.7 with its center at 12.9 (that's where I am running at)
The lean/red LEDs cover 14.7-19.1

Again on my custom mapped bike the A/F meter stays nailed to the 12.9 ratio for most of the rpm-range. Only on deceleration the ratio sweeps over to the very lean end of the scale, sometimes even beyond the end of the scale. No surprise as the ECU shuts of fuel completely.

Hope this helps.

Oliver

 

That explanation was, it was, well I'm at a lose for words. You and a large percentage of the people on this site are fairly, unbelievable. Now, I need an answer I completely understand. That Yamaha pipe your running, 2-1-2, what kind of sound are you getting from it? Loud? Not loud enough? Plenty O power? If you think its a good pipe, I too may have to acquire one. Thats bad cause its getting too close to X-Mas to buy things for myself.

 

That explanation was, it was, well I'm at a lose for words. You and a large percentage of the people on this site are fairly, unbelievable. Now, I need an answer I completely understand. That Yamaha pipe your running, 2-1-2, what kind of sound are you getting from it? Loud? Not loud enough? Plenty O power? If you think its a good pipe, I too may have to acquire one. Thats bad cause its getting too close to X-Mas to buy things for myself.

 

I have heard his pipe and it is loud, not quite as loud as say samsons but louder than most 2 to 1s It has a very different sound though, good, but different. Put it this way, I want one. I cant speak for Oliver, but he has alot of other performance mods on his bike so it may be hard to tell what power came from the pipe.

 

Oliver,

That looks like the inverse of a magnetic saturation curve, which makes sense for a meter that operates on D-arsenvalle meter movement. I now have a clue as to how the meter works, and what you can expect for A/F ratio. Thanks, that was enlightening.

 

quote:Originally posted by TJarrettB1

That explanation was, it was, well I'm at a lose for words. You and a large percentage of the people on this site are fairly, unbelievable. Now, I need an answer I completely understand. That Yamaha pipe your running, 2-1-2, what kind of sound are you getting from it? Loud? Not loud enough? Plenty O power? If you think its a good pipe, I too may have to acquire one. Thats bad cause its getting too close to X-Mas to buy things for myself.



You are welcome [/emoticons/emotion-2.gif]

The pipe? Hmmm .... I LOVE IT!!!! [^]
I like the looks, I love the sound and there is plenty of power. Check out my gallery pages by clicking on the bike above this post and you will find my current power numbers.

Ride safe! [8D]

Oliver

 

The best thing about that pipe is ground clearance.

 

And that too.. [/emoticons/emotion-2.gif]

 

quote:Originally posted by Bismarck

The best thing about that pipe is ground clearance.

Shhh, im trying to get one of these cheap and youre not helping! /emoticons/emotion-1.gif

 

And why would that impact the A/F meter readings? [/emoticons/emotion-5.gif]