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[Retired Admin-SuperMod]
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Post a picture of your pc3.
Is it a PCiii
Or a PCiiiUSB?

Also, the install manuals are in Documentation too BUT FOR THE GRAY WIRE USE PERFECT INSTALL AS NOTED BY MEMBER ABOVE.

The CONTROL CENTER SOFTWARE is also in the same area in Documentation.
 

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[Retired Admin-SuperMod]
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Okay you have what we call a PCiii-USB Ver1. When perfect installed it provides a rock solid idle. V2 motors by nature have that slightly rumble idle so rock solid means rock solid V2 idle!

These use map files with filenames ending in .djm (dyno jet map). The software can intake a prior version .map file which was used on the original PCiii Serial units and can convert the file to .djm format (keep separate .map file because they don't convert back). Always keep backup files on a hard drive and save your updated modified .djm maps in separate directory. Always get .djm files off your PCiii-USB into another separate hard drive directory. And Always get .djm file off it before you put another .djm into your power commander because it over-writes.

In addition to .map and .djm files found on dynojet power commander website and around here, check:
WWW.RSWARRIORDOCS.COM

There, on other tabs, are other help files. Please note that filename about lost Warrior keys is old and no longer of value. Plus the 2011 service manual notes is defunct and the replacement file is here in our Documentation area (we continue to learn new bits around this joint).

As you may know, the face buttons on any version PCiii (PC3) make fueling changes that are in addition to the map file (.map or .djm). On-the-fly is great I used the frak out of it when I ran one. When you stumble across button settings that improve your Beast then study the CONTROL CENTER SOFTWARE MANUAL and convert the number of button presses (plus or minus) into the map file field number (it's not 1-to-1) and carefully update your map file THEN CENTER ALL PC3 BUTTONS TO ZERO). There is a help file discussing. Plus a help file discussing the variable in the ratio of button presses to map field values (the ratio is adjustable in the software). If you get a dynotune, once you arrive at the tuner, verify your PC3 face buttons are set to zero (inform tuner).

With most fuel managers, including the PC3, you do NOT need to bump the ECU. But read-up on that and observe your wiring just to see if that wiring was modified. If it was, then your ECU could have been bumped by a prior owner. Most times nobody notes the original CO1 CO2 values so its lost to time. Every bike varies, it takes too long to describe why. It's a factory process issue. If the wiring is not modified then 99% chance (lol) it's not bumped. Good. But if wiring is modified it's a crapshoot. If the bike runs really well then leave CO1 CO2 alone and write down the numbers. If you ever get a dynotune on a Warrior whose wires have been modified for ECU BUMP then consider setting CO1 CO2 both to zero. This can save a ton of confusion later. Again, if wiring remains stock then do not bump at all. Use all-native power commander (or CobraCVT same deal).

With PC3's, on a hot day if you smell raw fuel out the exhaust at a stop light, use the buttons to bump LOW RPM RANGE one light down (lean). Leave mid and high alone awhile, lean those only if smell persists.

Final bit to know. There is a discussion about dynojet's definition of what rpm range is low, medium, high. At some point, dynojet changed its published opinion, saying that the full zero to 5000rpm range is divided into thirds. That may be. But back in the day I took advice from dynojet that the thirds were divided between warm idle and 5000rpm (900 and 5000) and I had very strong success (as did others). Some say it's irrelevant. Maybe it is. I mention this because published and documented thoughts on this changed over the years and you will find opinions on both sides and imo all carry value, you just have to play for yourself (keep running notes so you can back-out of any changes you make).

Sorry so long. There is a huge knowledge base here on this device. It's very powerful but needs a lot of attention to detail. The PCV is simpler and a slight bit more powerful. The CobraCVT is far simpler and nearly as powerful as PCV.
 
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