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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys

Today i started controling the air filters. Right side looked all good. Learned that the bike has got K&N-filters, nice. I prepared for lifting the tank. Removed the fuel line on the left side underneath the air intake scoop. When im about to plug it back, i cant make "snap" back in place properly. I doesnt seem to go all the way back on the connection..?! Any ideas/input?? Everything is cleaned properly. Added a litte WD-40 to the connection. But still, no..:confused:

Thanks in advance,

Cheers from Sweden!
 

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'05 Midnight
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The best advice is to step away for a bit. Have a pint. Think about it for a bit. Have another pint. Debate about trying again. Have another pint. Forget about it. Go to bed. Wake up tomorrow and eat a good breakfast. Remember it’s not connected and try again.

Sometimes, a little time and space away from a challenge will make it easier.

It looks like you’ve done everything right so I’m serious when I say walk away for a bit and come back around the time it finally drops off your mind.
 

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Also spray some WD40 on the ends
That helps with the 2 ends connecting
Together properly

Sent from my SM-A326U1 using Tapatalk
 

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@johgro

Yours is 2003 model year. Does it have original factory left side dry break? It's black synthetic/plastic with a big chrome latch.

Or was that replaced with an aftermarket unit? Many aftermarket units need their latch depressed in order to reconnect. The stock unit does not, so it will latch when pushed as you know.

The stock unit is spring-loaded internally. You can look inside the female half and see the spring inside. If it's got hard scale debris in there then it might not be able to latch. Press the internal spring with a small flat screwdriver, some fuel may flow, it might wash-out the obstruction. Then check the male half for debris and function. Then try again to connect.

Or you might in the end need to drain the tank and completely remove both halves in order to clean everything out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I went with the first three answers:sneaky:(y)(y)(y) I new day, a little more WD40. And the use och a very flat tipped screw driver to push hard on the outer part of the fuel connector, were the kind of 6,3 mm male mono jack runs. Did not get a clean "snap", but the connector locked and now sits nice and firm:)

@arizonawarrior it is the original factory dry brake.
 

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From your posted observations, one worry is having scale debris inside both of the stock dry break halves. It displays by making the halves hard to connect. I saw one case where forcing the connection broke the scale away and it traveled into the auxiliary tank repeatedly clogging the injectors.

If it were me, I would remove the top tank from the bike, set it down safely, gently position the hose so fuel flows into a gas can when the dry break half is removed from the hose (notice the special clamp). Once drained, remove the dry break half and visually inspect for debris / scale. Then uninstall and inspect/clean the matching dry break half. I think it's best to replace the special clamps with the same kind of clamps, others don't care to bother.

For my part, I used flowing water to clear scale from spares I bought, and I manipulated the internal valve spring with a small flat blade screwdriver. It took hours to do both halves. Then I washed them out with a lot of WD40, sprayed them like crazy. I'll see if I can find my posts on that.

You have plenty of time.

Ref1:

Ref2:
 
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