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Discussion Starter #1
THIS POST HAS BEEN EDITED TO REFLECT CRITICAL ELECTRICAL INFORMATION PROVIDED BY ALAN H.


First of all, let me say, that I got the idea for the front turn signals from Ruckus, and the rear turn signals from Parkinglot. Thanks to these guys, I've got a new lighting system that is pretty sweet. I turned my old silver bullet front turns into driving lights (no more click of death), and I am very happy with the outcome of this mod.


The rear turn signals: "Parkinglot's Idea"


Radiantz Custom, Turn signals only, 2) 3.6" - 30 LED strips + 2) 1/2" end caps= 8.2" Long, red LED, Clear tube











Turns and Brake Flexible array











Now, to be able to run LED's all the way around, and maintain a stock flash rate, I had to install a Flasher Module


(#6104-00 Universal Flasherz). So, after studying the wiring diagram from Yamaha, and talking with the Tech at Radiantz,


I was all set. Directly under the Fuse Box, is the stock Flasher Relay. It's a 5 wire system (Brown - Power,


Black - Ground, Brown/white - Turn signals, Yellow/Red - Self cancelling ground, White - ECU/Self cancelling).


I did not cut any wires.


The Universal Flasherz is a 3 wire module (Red - Power, Black - Ground, Yellow - Turn signals/Out). So, I hooked up


the Redto Brown, Black to Black, and Yellow wire to the Brown/White.


The Yellow/Red and White wires do not get connected to anything.


The Flasherz replaces the 5 prong Stock Signal Relay and eliminates the Self Cancelling feature, unfortunately.


It doeshave an adjustable flash rate, and you can also configureit for different braking applications (Strobe, Solids, Flashes).


I put it all back in it's home, and it looks like I was never there.


The Front Turn Signals: "Ruckus' Mod"


2) Flexible Array #4013-20,15 Amber LED - 2 3/4 in, Clear Tube


I was gonna do something really stupid with these, until I saw Ruckus' Thread, and realized my nearsightedness...


Thank God for this Forum!!!

















OK, The flash rate is set at stock, it looks great, and I'm ready for the next Mod!!!


Anybody want to get hooked up with this setup, give me a shout.


I'm a Radiantz dealer, and RSWarrior.com Members get a sweet discount through me.
 

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i really like the fronts up there, looks sharp, hows the brightness? are they bright enough to stand out in the daylight? the rear looks great too, very clean, i have the integrated taillight so i'm not worried about the back but i'm lovin the front.
 

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I am interested in the price too. From the looks of things maybe we could even sweeten the deal with a group buy???


On a little different side, how did you adhere the LEDs to the Clutch/Brake Levers? Is it just an adhesive or screws or lick it and stick it or ??????


Just curious as to how well they will stay mounted and for how long. Course if they are cheap to replace and easy to replace it wouldnt matter to much.


Thanks again.
 

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Justice ... how about posting for us a couple of close-up jpegs of the wire terninations of the no cut any wire install of the Universal flasher and where it resides under the seat un detected!


Thanks
 

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I saw them on the bikes of Ruckus and Parkinglot.... now YOU got them.... next ....might be me. Its a great match LEDs on the front and the back. Come back and show whats under the seat.
 

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Man killin me...I have this stuff sittin in a box and wont be able to install for probably a couple weeks...I like the pics though Justin, and thanks again. For the record, Justin is awesome to deal with, shipping, tracking numbers and the whole nine.
 

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gremlin said:
i really like the fronts up there, looks sharp, hows the brightness? are they bright enough to stand out in the daylight?

I have these same Radiantz LED strips but mounted to my forks right above the bottom section of the triple tree. They are still very visible during the day and easily noticeable. If you want to hook them up as run AND turns then make sure you get their newer dual mode adapter that functions from 0% to 100% when flashing instead of the 50/100 like the older one would be my only advice.


As far as how they install, they come with good 3M adhesive tape already on them but you'll want to make very sure you clean the area well with alcohol and you might want to order the optional activator sponge for a buck or whatever as well. These CAN be bent to wrap around your forks but due to the short size of that particular one it takes heating,and cleaning thoroughly is obviously even more important or they will pull themselves free on the end. I remember when I first considered them that some members had used something like 24" strips and wrapped them full circle around the fork twice which will give you better field of view for sure and brighter intensity even.


Another way to do the same thing but cleaner is with these but I'm not sure if Radiantz makes them...


 

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Discussion Starter #11
07midnite said:
What's the price for all items listed per the RSWarrior discount?

I'm giving RSWarrior Members a 25% Discount off of List Prices, thru the end of the year.Total cost to you for the whole set up is $125.00 delivered (Includes Paypal Fee).


This includes2) LED Flexible Arrays in Amber or Red with a Clear or Redtube, 2-3/4"L, 1) Custom Turn Array with either Red or Amber LED's in either a Clear or Red tube, 8.2"L, 3) Black wire sheathings, to cover wires and protect them, 1) Universal Flasherz, Flasher Relay Module, 1) Shipping charge, and 1) Paypal Fee.Total List Price - $158.64 (IncludesShipping).So, you save $33.64 off of list price.


The only thing you'll need to get are some electrical connectors, some wire, and some electrical tape. You can solder the connectors or tape them.


THIS IS GROUP BUY PRICING. I'm getting 20 or more quantity pricing from Radiantz, thru the end of the year, on single purchases. After Dec.31st, the pricing will change back to 20% off list for single purchases, and 25% off list on 20 or more group buys.


I will pull the guts apart tomorrow, and shoot some pics of the wiring on the flasher module. It was far more simple than I had imagined it would be.


Thanks for your interest. PM me if you're interested and let me know what you would like to do.


~Justice


P.S. Thanks for the props Dave! You've been great to deal with too!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
gremlin said:
hows the brightness? are they bright enough to stand out in the daylight?

They are plenty bright. Trying to time the camera shutter with the turn signal flash was exhausting! LOL!! They are 1/2 the size of the rear lights, so they are not as bright, but you can't miss them when they're on.


Also, They come with a very sticky 2 sided tape strip on the back. After I hooked them up and made sure that they worked, I found the position that I really wanted them in. I put a dab of super glue on the ends and used some small padded quick-grip clamps to hold them in position for about an hour. They are not going to move, at all.


One other note. I drilled a 3/16" hole thru the tailight housing, so that the wires exiting the LED strip could go thru the plastic, and so that the strip would sit flush. I also super glued that and clamped it (off the bike).
 

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Discussion Starter #13
gremlin said:
i really like the fronts up there, looks sharp, hows the brightness? are they bright enough to stand out in the daylight? the rear looks great too, very clean, i have the integrated taillight so i'm not worried about the back but i'm lovin the front.

The front signalsare $48.35 Delivered. That includes 2) LED's - $15.95 ea.,Wire Sheathing - $6.00, Shipping - $9.00, and Paypal Fees - $1.45
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Marco Polo said:
Another way to do the same thing but cleaner is with these but I'm not sure if Radiantz makes them...



These are from Custom Dynamics. The sell at $259.95 a set, plus shipping(OUCH!!!) for the 56mm version (Warrior forks are 54mm). You would need a thin spacer and a flasher module. They are really clean looking.


I'm gonna see what Radiantz has to compete with this...
 

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Justice said:
Now, to be able to run LED's all the way around, and maintain a stock flash rate, I had to install a Flasher Module


(#6104-00 Universal Flasherz). So, after studying the wiring diagram from Yamaha, and talking with the Tech at Radiantz,


I was all set. Directly under the Fuse Box, is the stock Flasher Relay. It's a 5 wire system (Brown - Power,


Black - Ground, Brown/white - Left signals, Yellow/Red - Right signals, White - ECU). I did not cut any wires.


The Universal Flasherz is a 3 wire module (Red - Power, Black - Ground, Yellow - Turn signal/Out). So, I hooked up


the Redto Brown, and Black to Black .I made a "Y" connector with some wire, and hooked the Yellow wire to the


single connection, and hooked up the top of the "Y" to the right and left signals(Brown/White - Yellow/Red). The Flasherz


have an adjustable flash rate, and you can also configure them for different braking applications (Strobe, Solids, Flashes).


I put it all back in it's home, and it looks like I was never there.


OK, The flash rate is set at stock, it looks great, and I'm ready for the next Mod!!!

FYI, the Brn/Wht wire is the Load Side of the Factory flasher and not the Left T/S. The Yel/Red wire forms a GRND through the T/S switch in both the left and right positions. The White wire originates at the Speed sensor and is tapped/branched to the ECU as you discussed and also forms the auto cancelling T/S circuit,It is not the Right T/S.


I'm surprised that you haven't blown the 10Asignal circuit fuse with your configuration, if in fact it is connected as you described.


I can only speculate that the new electronic flasher is taking a beatingfrom the straight short to ground intermittently when flashing.


The other intangible is a possible intermittent feedback of 12v to the ECU & Speed sensor through theDenso 5-pin relay and that's not a good thing. It's possible that there is a diode to prevent feed back throughthe relay!


EDITED: I would suggest you remove your branch (Y) connection at the Yel/Red wire
 

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Discussion Starter #17
AlanH said:
FYI, the Brn/Wht wire is the Load Side of the Factory flasher and not the Left T/S. The Yel/Red wire forms a GRND through the T/S switch in both the left and right positions. The White wire originates at the Speed sensor and is taped to the ECU as you discussed and also forms the auto cancelling T/S circuit through the Yel/Red wire. It is not the Right T/S.


I'm surprised that you haven't blown the 10Asignal circuit fuse with your configuration, if in fact it is connected as you described.


I can only speculate that the new electronic flasher is taking a beatingfrom the straight short to ground intermittently when flashing.


The other intangible is a possible intermittent feedback of 12v to the ECU & Speed sensor through the Yel/Red & Wht wire of the Denso 5-pin relay

This is why I love this Forum!


The module has it's own inline fuse, and I'm imaging it is taking a beating. When I first hooked it up, I only connected the brown/white wire to the Yellow wire from the module, and both turns worked. I hooked up the yellow/red, and there was no bleed over, so I left it. I imagine that the blackground wire is performing the work for the yellow/red wire, as well as grounding the module. I didn't hook up the white (ECU/self cancelling) wire at all, because i didn't know what to connect it to (there are only three wires from the Flasher Module), and I knew I was going to lose the self cancelling feature.


So, what do you think I should do? Do I disconnect the yellow/red wire completely, or tie it into the black ground wire? What can I do with the white self cancelling wire?


Thanks for the clarification, Alan.
 

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Justice ... no disrespect here, but your original post never mentioned that you disconnected the Denso relay
and that's why i wanted you to post jpegs of the install.


The T/S switch at the bars has a very unique hard logic that works inconjunction w/the auto cancel feature of the Denso relay if you review the schematic and read below:.


Thereis 1- N.O. momentary contact that operates in either theRH or LH position. This contactpulls in a holding circuitin the Densodevice through the Yel/Red wire to GRND.


I'm quite certain that the other contact configurationisan ON-OFF-ON SPDT contact thatflip/flops the Brn/Wht wire to the L & R T/S's.


The T/S switch will reset if the switch is depressed or momentarily open if operated again in the (same i think) or opposite direction!


As stated earlier in the edited post, REMOVE YOUR "Y" branch connection to the Yel/Red wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
No offense taken, at all. I just did what was suggested to do. Typically, these modules are used for 3 prong flashers. I sent the wiring diagram to Radiantz, and the tech called me and made some suggestions. I guess he could read the diagrams as well as I could...



Tomorrow, I will disconnect the Yellow/Red wire from the "Y".


Should I connect it to anything? What about the White wire? Connect it to....?


Thanks again, Alan, for saving my bacon...
 

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Discussion Starter #20
The original post has been edited to reflect the electrical information that Alan H has provided. In the morning I will make my changes to the bike, and take some pics of the module location.


A big Thanks to Alan H. !!!!
 
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