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Radius Bars

1.3K views 14 replies 6 participants last post by  darkstar  
#1 ·
Just finished the bar swap, more work than anticipated. The "wire stay" bracket was a pain in the ass to remove. Thank god for the Dremel tool. Did not want to take the triple apart so cutting seemed easier, wrong. Question for those who have made the swap, the directions tell you to remove the original flat washer, under the risers. This leaves you with no washer? Right? Seems unusual to me, but the bars seem solid. Input please.
 
#2 ·
Just got my Rad bars today! Question, did you run the wires inside? Anyone else? I would love to see a closeup pic of a bike with the wires run, to see what it will look like, and if it is worth the extra hours. Most of the pics in the gallery look like the wires were NOT run inside.
 
#4 ·
I am curious about this "wires inside" stuff. Does that mean that the electrical wiring goes inside the handlebar somewhere close to the handles, and then comes ut behind the headlight arrangement somewhere? Or is there a way to rout the wires into the handlebar *inside* the control package by the handle? If not, I get the impression that the entry point into the handlebars would look worse than having the wires outside all the way down.
 
#5 ·
It is worth the pain to run the wires through the bars. You did right removing that pos wire stay, I also used my Dremel.
Do use a flat washer under the bars, on top of the triple tree. Even better, get a thicker one than stock. If you don't use a washer, you will have lots of vibration.
You might want to do a search for "Radius bars", there is a lot of info on installing.
 
#6 ·
Radius Bars! I originally had the wires running internal, but had to pull due to the non-professional install I did the first time. The inside of the bars are rather sharp and some of my wires got striped down and grounded out. I am in the process now of redoing the internal routing of the control wires again with shrink wrapping (protective wrap). If you go with the internal wiring you will have to add extentions on the control lines, especially the clutch side. The holes for the internal wiring are very well hidden and do not look offensive in any way. The hole are right below the control housing and exits on the inside part of the Rad Bars near the triple tree. The Warrior looks 100% better with wires run internally, cuts down on the Yamaha Clutter mess with all the cables, lines everywhere. You must use washers to keep the bars from compressing the dampener's. You will experience very numb hands on any extended road trip. I put large flat washer on bottom of triple tree and large locking washer on top of triple tree. This was a very noticable difference in vibration. I also had to get longer bolts to accomadate the extra washers. More important is to torque the bars down, do not over tighten, this also has an affect on vibration. Boogiman has pictures in the gallery with the wires run internally. If you look at my pic's there might be a few pic's with one side (throttle side) run internally. I hope this helps. It is worth the 5-6 hours to do the internal routing. Gives it that clean custom look!
 
#11 ·
Mac,
You are talking about the Control Lines, correct? If so, No, the clutch side needs another 8-10" I got by with the throttle side, but would recommend adding another 5-6". If you are not talking about the control lines then Yes, you will have enough length for the throttle/clutch lines.
The lines I am talking about that run internally are the switch lines or control lines. These are the switches like the horn, turn signals, starter, kill switch etc....
 
#12 ·
A word of caution for anyone doing the internal wiring - file the corners of the clutch perch. They are sharp! While doing the work, I slipped with it and cut 3 of my wires - after all the crap you have to go through to get those wires in, believe me, if you do what i did, the neighbors will here the cussing!