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I dont know what the price should be but should'nt the caliper be bolted on top of the swing arm?
 

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Look at the parts that are included in the service. They even powdercoat the entire swingarm after moving the threaded puck to the bottom and grinding the inside. Of course it's going to cost that much. hehe
 

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I like the look! But I wonder what it does to the integrity of your brake system. It seems that the torque on the whole caliper set-up under braking would now be on two sets of bolt threads instead of that sturdy tab locking against the top of the swingarm. Maybe I'm wrong... but brakes are sort of important so I would want some answers there before considering it just for looks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
People have done this mod themselves and from my understanding it has worked out well. It's always been bolted from the top though. Also you can do this mod for nearly nothing if you know how to weld or know a welder. Powder coating the swing arm souldn't cost that much. I thought powder coating was pretty inexpensive. But I could be wrong.
 

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This isn't really true. I was the first to do this mod and I bolted it from under. KevinGonad was the second and he did it fromt he top. Braking does loose a bit of firmness and it's a *** to bleed without a pressurized bleeder but other than that, I've never had a problem. The threads will never pull out nor will the gusset through the swingarm. Best of luck!





CBushmaker said:
People have done this mod themselves and from my understanding it has worked out well. It's always been bolted from the top though. Also you can do this mod for nearly nothing if you know how to weld or know a welder. Powder coating the swing arm souldn't cost that much. I thought powder coating was pretty inexpensive. But I could be wrong.
 

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This isn't really true. I was the first to do this mod and I bolted it from under. KevinGonad was the second and he did it fromt he top. Braking does loose a bit of firmness and it's a *** to bleed without a pressurized bleeder but other than that, I've never had a problem. The threads will never pull out nor will the gusset through the swingarm. Best of luck!





CBushmaker said:
People have done this mod themselves and from my understanding it has worked out well. It's always been bolted from the top though. Also you can do this mod for nearly nothing if you know how to weld or know a welder. Powder coating the swing arm souldn't cost that much. I thought powder coating was pretty inexpensive. But I could be wrong.
 

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Ihave a hidden caliper from "crown" It has the bolt tab on top of the swingarm. In all honesty if the bolt came out it's wouldn't affect a thing. I'm not a fan of bolting it to the bottom. All the stress and pressure is placed on the bolt and the threads instread of the swingarm.
 

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CBushmaker said:
IMO, that's an apple & pear comparison. The Ebay link is in another league altogether and a TurnKey install!


Yes, you can source out a $75.00 modified and weldedrear caliper mounting bracket (RCMB)that will attach to the top side of the swing arm.


The PE modification is much more radical tothe RCMB and also involvesrelocation and weldingof the threaded pad to the bottom of the swing arm. Thearm is also machined to eliminate the interference with the caliper bodyand the machined step for locating the stock bracket is removed i suspect for maintenace & installation ease so that the RCMBcan be swung down toward the ground.


If you look closely at the photos the RCMB has been extensively reworked to allow the above procedure. There is a new brake hose included with attaching hardware and it runs under the swing arm. Keep in mind that the arm shown looks to be a 260 and not stock, i think?


My .02 regarding the strength of the bottom mount bolt in tensionis as follows .... Don't overlook the fact that the rear axle (M20) passes through the bracket body and is torqued to 110 ft~lbs creating a tremendous intensification to the assembled parts
and for all you Naysayers, the Roadliner, Stratoliner and Raider are all bottom mount brackets on sliding key and no bolt
just like many sports bikes



The Pioneer and Grandfather of the 1st Hidden Caliper: Erik aka midnight_run and his original Topic Post to the community that is quite interesting. Rear Brake caliper mod project: http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/28061/391148.aspx#391148
 

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1fastwarrior02 said:
http://rswarrior.com/forums/t/28838.aspx?PageIndex=1


I also have done a few of the modifications. I have a fixture to make sure it is welded square and in the right spot. I charge $75.00 plus shipping, Bracket is cut, welded, and bead blasted ready for paint or powder coat.

Do you weld the tab on the top or bottom? Do you use the original tab or fab a new one?


I bought a rear caliper on ebay that I'd like to get welded for the Hidden Caliper Mod. Get back to me as soon as you can.
 

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As stated above, the Raider (etc) rear caliper bracket is a cool design that doesn't have anythreads in tension and therefore avoids the pesky possibility of the caliper bracket's fixing bolt coming looseunder the swing arm. IMO this PE design is flawed and the top-tab design, while harder to bleed, is a better option for the Warrior modification.


Below is the sliding-key-fixed rear caliper bracketfor the Raider, Roadliner, Stratoliner, having no threads in tension, and the bleeder orientedfor bleeding. This design applies the rotating load into the meat of the swing arm avoiding a thread-resisted under-arm load that ispulling away from the swing arm during braking due to wheel rotation. The law of large numbers would suggest if these production models had under-arm threads in tension for this application, some number of units would become improperly torqued over the years in service, or would come loose due to other means, very likelyallowing the complete rear caliper bracketto rotate while riding. The Raider (etc) design eliminates the possibility of rear caliper bracket rotation due to thread failure or other real-world bolt issues.
 

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I had mine welded at a local welding shop/Cost me $60 then I painted it.I would not hesitate to do Performance Edges KIt.Their work is top notch and the strength of their welds is Unbeatable.I had my PE modifiied rear wheel hit and bent around my hidden rear caliper and not one weld cracked.They bent with the rim and held there integrity. I would do their mod enyday.
 

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slngshott said:
I had mine welded at a local welding shop/Cost me $60 then I painted it.I would not hesitate to do Performance Edges KIt.Their work is top notch and the strength of their welds is Unbeatable.I had my PE modifiied rear wheel hit and bent around my hidden rear caliper and not one weld cracked.They bent with the rim and held there integrity. I would do their mod enyday.
I think if you check you will find that not only does Kosman weld PE's wheels, but they do most of the wheels for all the vendors, so the credit may need to go to Kosman.
 

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Yes their work is great, but if the fixing tab is below the swingarm and the bolt comes loose for any reason, even ten years from now, there is nothing to keep the entire bracket from rotating and throwing you on your butt, especially when you hit the brakes. With the fixing tab on top of the swing arm the bracket can't rotate even with no bolt (although you wouldn't want that situation for other reasons).


slngshott said:
I had mine welded at a local welding shop/Cost me $60 then I painted it.I would not hesitate to do Performance Edges KIt.Their work is top notch and the strength of their welds is Unbeatable.I had my PE modifiied rear wheel hit and bent around my hidden rear caliper and not one weld cracked.They bent with the rim and held there integrity. I would do their mod enyday.
 
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