The best bet is to remove the fender as to work comfortably. Spray the crap out of them with PB blaster and keep trying. Also you can try to drill them out but put something on the backside so you don't go thru.
There are professional pneumatic and Hand Tools to Install Blind Nuts & Studs.
Blind threaded studs or pull-up studs can be used for this repair. You'll need to drill out the broken stud and re-drill for the proper body size of the M6 stud.
I've seen a neat repair to the Warrior rear Fender Taillight M6 Stud by Gav aka Caledonian Warrior recently over on FB. If interested, in his repair, I suggest you contact him.
I think the installation of a Blind Nut will be more challenging because of its installed position but perhaps I'm wrong.
I would suggest drilling out the broken M6 Hex Screw and rethreading if required.
Gonna call my local bikeshop tomorrow see if they can help me out.. i just don't have the tools to dril out and retap these nuts..
and as i don't have any other means of transportation it kinda needs t happen soonish
LED strip is a good idea but then what about the licence plate.. i'm not allowed a sidemount here legally and have already been in trouble for not mounting it straight enough..
Haha! Classic! On my previous warrior fell off such 2 mounts of 4. I puted the blame on the national format of license plates, with us they are HUGE (and terrible looking))) But it turns out that this is a warrior's problem.
If the suggestions don't work get a fiberglass replacement fender you could get a stock design a shorter stock design or even a custom design and the license plate holder could be build in a lot less than $1000
It would depend on the product. most fiberglass products come with gelcoat which after a degrease/dewax should be able to be wrapped in vinyl right away as long as there are no defects that need to be fixed. Any product I make I presand and then coat with primer which after a sanding with 600 or lighter sandpaper could then be covered with vinyl
Why not just spotweld a replacement bolt on top of whats left of the broken of bolt. First clean the area and grind down the remains as much as possible then spotweld
the same diameter bolt in place. Or you can spotweld a nut there instead of a bolt
The fender is at the local bike shop atm.. we'll see what they come up with.. and then i'll have to see IF i can save the fender long term because of rust, my front fender already has a hole rusted right through.. so i'm talkin to Christok to see what kinda fenders he can brew up for me, that doesn't help me short term but i'll never have to worry about rusty fenders ever again.
r1rouse is correct though, no welding equipment here at all.. and the only drill i have that's powerfull enough to tackle steel is too long to fit in the fender, hence i couldn't drill out those bolts here myself..
if i'm going for a new fender i'll also be looking for a solo seat, something i've been wanting for years (lemme know if ya have a spare one)
Update..
The fender came back from the bikeshop.. it is in rusty but useable condition, i've slapped on some anti rust paint.. but i think the damage is already mostly done.
The solution the shop came up with is to cut off the tabs that hold the threads and drill right through the fender which isn't perfect but i can at least ride till my new fender arrives, which being handmade and ordered today is gonna take a while. I did wrap the thing in vinyl like i was planning even though it's ust temporary, i didn't have enough of the stuff for both front and rear fender and the minimum order of the stuff will easily do both.
Looks fine like that...like madtom said...I would not worry about it any further
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