Did you cut the main ignition wire in half? or did you splice the pink and grey into it.

 

Yes I did cut it in half, and the main ignition switch has four wires but I can't figure out where to tie in the alarm's accessory wire. The diagram that came with my directions showed the accessory wire coming from the ignition which differs from the link I posted.

I had assumed the second two wires from the main ignition switch were the accessories and tried each one with the alarm's accessory wire. The bike would always turn on and crank but not start.

I did find the acc wire on the alarm has 12 volts when the remote start is activated but the two wires from the main ignition switch show nothing with the key off or on so I now don't believe they would be right and that's probably where I blew the relay.

 

What kind of tester are you using when I install remote car starters I use a tester thats show negative and positive power supplies.

 

I have a wal-mart digital voltometer in which I can check AC/DC volts, continuity and probably other things too but I'm not sure what all it will test. I am an amateur when it comes to electricity. It took me two days to figure out how to test for continuity during which I finally found out the starter cut off relay diode's where not reading correctly.

www.rswarrior.com/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=13153

 

Justice,
you need to know what kind of signals the remote start is putting out. I would want it wired into the start button wiring (so all the safety stuff works) and that uses a ground signal. As far as finding the ignition switch feed wire -- im not sure just yet which one that is.

 

dunno if this helps- but turning the ign sw to on provides continuity from r->br/l and from l/y->l/b (this from switch testing).
l/b goes to the ecu and br/l powers 3 fuses. The l/y l/b circuit goes to the relay you fried, so that tells me you hooked to this the first time and sent power on the ground circuit (dang good thing it lunched the relay and not the ecu). So, the alarm needs to be hooked into br/l wire (according to diagram for alarm). It looks like it may get tricky from here as you will probably have to run a relay to provide continuity from l/y to l/b when your alarm goes hot on br/l, and another relay to change pos signal to starter to neg to simulate you pressing the start button (its a b/g wire that runs from start swith to ecu) . It looks like if it is done this way it will work as if you turned the key and pushed the button

 

Yea I figured out the positive wire, negative wire, siren wires, turn signal wires, starter wire and the main ignition wire. The alarm is set up for a positive or negative starter switch. I set it to negative and it does turn the bike on and crank as if the starter button is pressed but the bike will not start.

I can't though figure out where the alarm's acc wire needs to go.

I also cannot figure out what the two remaining wires from the main ignition switch are for. I am assuming they become connected when the key is on to complete the circuit as one of the continuity tests I performed during troubleshooting was between the these two with the key on and they did have continuity.

 

xzvs,

Would connecting the second two remaining ignition wires where they would bypass the key seem to have any effect. It seems the bike wants to start but since the two remaining wires are not being connected via the key it's not completing a circuit thus not letting the bike start.

But that still leaves the question on where to tie in the alarm's acc wire?

 

ok-- I need to know wire colors tho -- what do you have hooked to what ?

 

ok heres what I interpret as the corret hook ups
pink to br/l - switch side
grey to br/l- to fuse box
cut br/l wire between pink and grey
blue (set to ground) to b/g wire (from start sw to ecu)

ok the tricky bit is you have to tie a relay into the l/y l/b circuit (or hook l/y to l/b to test operation-- I do not recommend leaving the wires together as they wouldn't have run it thru the switch if it was ok)
for relay setup (4 pin relay)- grey wire would be power to coil (ground other side) and hook up l/y and l/b to the switching portion.

 

I have the alarm's Pink and Gray wires into the main ignition wire which is (Brown/Blue) with the wire cut in between.

I have nothing on the two remaining main ignition wires which are (Blue/Black & Blue/Yellow) and are also the two I'm wanting to hardwire together to bypass the key.

Now that I think about it I had the alarm's Brown acc wire connected along with the it's grey which goes to the fuses on the main ignition wire (Brown/Blue).

After this didn't work I connected the alarm's acc wire to the main ignition wire (Blue/Yellow) which is were I believe I fried the relay.

 

near as I can tell the acc wire doesn't hook to anything in this application -- you could however use it to power the relay (if you use that method of connecting the other 2 wires )

 

It's working!

Wired the Brown acc wire to the main ignition (br/l) along with the grey wire and the secondary ignition wires (l/b & l/y) were bypassed.

I can only hope Yamaha was running the secondary ignition wires through the key for safety reasons and my bypass will not cause a battery drain. If so I will go ahead and get the relay.

The remote start is pretty useless but sure is going to be a conversation piece.

 

Justice,

Which Alarm unit did you purchase?

 

This is it. $35 One hour left on this one, but the seller has many others.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34284&item=2463973625

 

Bismark,

If you get one let me know and I will show you the quick and easy way to install vs what the instruction diagram shows.

 

I been looking at these exact alarms on ebay -- are they pretty good -- other than wiring difficuties? -- good quality /detection/range?

 

I ordered another one that has a remote pager. I thought maybe you have the same one. I do like the remote start feature for this air cooled twin.

 

Yes the alarm and remote start seem to work quite well.

The range is good, I can activate and deactivate the alarm or remote start from approximately 50 yards while the bike is parked inside my shop building.

The siren/horn seems to be cheaply made and I would be scared to let any water get to it, but it is extremely loud. I assume I could wire it to the factory horns if it malfunctions.

The remote comes with blank keys to cut that fit inside as you can see from the photo, however they do not match up to the warrior key. I haven't checked on alternate keys.

Other than that the description on ebay is quite accurate.