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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I replaced the key switch with a after market switch. What I want to know is the stock switch has four wires (red)(blu blk)(yel blk)(brown blk)and the knew one has two wires (red) and (white). Can i wire red to red the other 3 to white? Well I did this know bike wont start


1.All speedo tack lights come on and fuel pump comes on.


2.Bike turns over can smell fuel.


3. checked plugs no spark.


Iwas readinginother post that bike has a safty featuers that kills thepower to coils. Does anybodyknow more about this?And how to get around this.
 

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lilmo .... I suggest you read this post completely for some background for possible damages. No Neutral light: http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/119776/963149.aspx#963149

The Warrior OEM ignition switch has 2-isolated normally open contacts. The switch you purchased has only 1. You need to trigger a relay with 1-N.O. contact.The switch you purchased should have a contact rating of 35Adc and should be wired to the Warrior Red (+12v)and Brown/Blue (Switched +12v). There isn't a Brown/Black that i'm aware of unless it's a model year difference.

The Blue/Yellow & Blue/Black wires should be connected to the new N.O. contact of the triggered relay and the coil should be connected to the Brown/Blue and GRND.

Trouble shooting suggestions: Most immediately you need to disconnect the 2-ground wires BLU/YEL & BLU/BLK from the +12v supply. These 2-wires must be connected during the KEY-ON sequence as if connected when the ignition switch is turned on. As suggested earlier read the No Neutral light thread as a guide line. At this point it's a crap shoot as to what the damage is.

Regarding your statement, "Safety Features" ..... what OEM devices have you removed or defeated
... It's obvious that the Kill Switch is connected as the engine turns over


Reference Mat'l for trouble shooting:

Warrior Electric Starting System-Enhanced Schematic & More: http://rswarrior.com/forums/t/113929.aspx

Warrior Wiring Diagram w/Text Descriptors Added: http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/27165/287057.aspx#287057
 

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Why would you buy an aftermarket ignition switch? Some parts such as this should only be replaced with yamaha parts. **** the cost
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks AllanH will read up on it. Well Yamaha dealer screws me everytime I walk in their. Plus they act like they dont want to touch anything thats custom or mod. Oh AllanH ur right (brown blue) not (brown black) my bad.
 

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Scoper50 said:
Why would you buy an aftermarket ignition switch? Some parts such as this should only be replaced with yamaha parts. **** the cost
There is nothing wrong using an alternate type switch as long asthe application is done properly and the capacity is capable of the switched loads! An isolated double pole single throw keyed ignition switch w/ 2-N.O. contacts that is weather-tightis a difficult part to secure.


There aremore than a handful of Warriors on this site that are sucessfully using alternate means for the ignition switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Read the post u sent me AllanH Not understanding some of the eletrical talk or words for me its clear as mud. But got it startedthis way not that its right.OkOEM key switch to HD key switch. Ok HD switch has two wires (red)+(white) OEM female pluge from bike has (brown blu) (Yellow blu)(black blu). What I did but I put red from OEM plugeto red on HD switch and brown-blu to whiteon HD switch. The Yelow-blu and black-blu tied together then turned the key switch on and hit the start button. Did not start, the engine light was on so I pulled the cluch in two seconds later the light went out.Clutch stillpulled in cluched hit the start buttom it started. Got it!! so I thought thenlet the cluch out and it died. All the lights work neutrel light works when I put in 1st gear neutrel light goes out.
 

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joe said:
The Yelow-blu and black-blu tied together then turned the key switch on and hit the start button.

Joe, What I think AlanH said was that the (black-blue) + (Yellow-Blue) should only be "tied together" when the ignition is ON, you will need a relay to accomplish this. (as AlanH stated)


Wait for AlanH to further clarify this, but I think this is what he meant...


Also let us know if you modified/bypassed any other things that may affect the bike from starting like:


1. Your SideStand Switch
2. Your Clutch Switch
3. your Kill On/Off Switch


and so on...


joe said:
I thought thenlet the clutch out and it died.

Was the Bike in gear when you did this?
Was the kickstand down when you did this?


In no way will any of my questions Help you out, but I'm just curious...





BTW AlanH, Nice Diagrams
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
A relay switch, would that be same as a toggel switch off on? TheSideStand Switch is bypassed about two month now. Clutch Switch andKill On/Off switch still the same.



quote user=joe"] I thought thenlet the clutch out and it died.( What I meant was So I thought I had it fixed and then when I let the clutch lose the bike died.)
 

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joe said:
A relay switch, would that be same as a toggel switch off on?

It's not the same, but it does the same thing just automatically.


For example when you turn on your ignition the 12v current will activate the relay (this would be the same as you flicking the toggle switch) and when you turn the ignition off, the lack of current will deactivate/open the switch, this way you dont have to toggle the switch manually.


it looks like this... (this might not be the model you need just a sample pic)



And the diagram/schematic of how the realy works is like this...
"Main 12V in" could be your "Yellow/Blue" and the "Main 12v out" could be your "Balck/Blue"





This is the Basic workings of a (Normaly Open relay)...


I'm not saying this is what you need I'm just showing you what relay is and how it works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Did some test my bike will start but in neutral with clutch pulledback but dies when I let go of the clutch. So I jumped the clutch switch wires (blu yellow)+(blk yellow)started itagain and let the clutch go and it kept running. But when I dropped it in 1st with clutch pulled back it died. It was like clank and died. Clutch should work with bike on or off right? That part maybe from lack of riding. Back to clutch switch will the resistor 1.3-1.5 ohm between the (blu yellow)and(blu blk) at key switch fix this problem or is the clutch switch bad and I need a new one.


All light work as follwed


1. All lights on tack RPMs and speedo work and neutral goes when in gear.


2. Head light works dimer switchalso horn works.


3. kill switch works just a test I always use the keyto kill.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Can'nt start bike in first gear with clutch pulled in. Will only start in neutral the clutch pulled in when Irelease clutch it dies. I Jumped the clutch switch and it will keep running in neutral clutch out.Pull clutch back start bike in neutral drop it into first gearand itdies. How do i check my relay switches?
 

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joe said:
Can'nt start bike in first gear with clutch pulled in. Will only start in neutral the clutch pulled in when Irelease clutch it dies. I Jumped the clutch switch and it will keep running in neutral clutch out.Pull clutch back start bike in neutral drop it into first gearand itdies. How do i check my relay switches?
I would expect that you have your kickstand up and not down?
 

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joe said:
Can'nt start bike in first gear with clutch pulled in. Will only start in neutral the clutch pulled in when Irelease clutch it dies. I Jumped the clutch switch and it will keep running in neutral clutch out.Pull clutch back start bike in neutral drop it into first gearand itdies. How do i check my relay switches?
My 1st response to this post, 1st paragraph: http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/120111/965314.aspx#965314
[*]lilmo .... I suggest you read this post completely for some background for possible damages. No Neutral light: http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/119776/963149.aspx#963149
[/list]

Did you read the author's response enclosed below? : http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/119776/964992.aspx#964992...My understanding is that you applied +12v to the GRND when you wired the new single pole switch. If that be the case i would expect at a minimum that you damaged the Relay Unit as discussed by RF_WIZ. .It's also possible that you damged the ECU at the same time because you also applied +12v to the ECU where as RF_WIZ didn't. As i stated earlier, "it's a crap shoot as to what the damage is" based on my understanding of the Warrior electrical system. I've not been down this road before.

RF_WIZ said:
Hi Alan, Thanks for your reply,

The ignition switch was not even present. I was eliminating it all together and turn my run switch into an ignition switch ( see my post on my front end mod and you'll understand why). I traced the problem to the starting circuit cut off relay. This is the 5px-81590 relay under the seat. This relay will monitor the run, clutch, neutral and ignition switches. when all of them are in the desired state then it will let the starting relay energize. When I put 12v across the blue wires it fried that relay. Thank God it wasn't the ECU. I ordered a new relay (41.00 from yammi) while I was waiting for the replacement I decided to open the old one up to see wht made it tick. You have to break the housing apart to get it open as it it well sealed but once inside it is basic electronics. All it contains is 2 relays and a few switching diodes. My electronics background helped to diagnose the problem. I founda burned trace and two blown diodes. I repaired the trace and replaced the diodes andall was well again.


-Carmine
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yes I did read it. My neutral light is working when I put into 1st itgoes out. Is there a way to test relays? something is killing the bike when i drop into first gear and will not let me start in first grear.
 

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joe said:
Yes I did read it. My neutral light is working when I put into 1st it goes out. Is there a way to test relays? something is killing the bike when i drop into first gear and will not let me start in first grear.
lilmo...I'm going to pass on this one as i can'tsay it any clearer than RF_WIZ
[*]I traced the problem to the starting circuit cut off relay. This is the 5px-81590 relay under the seat. This relay will monitor the run, clutch, neutral and ignition switches. when all of them are in the desired state then it will let the starting relay energize. When I put 12v across the blue wires it fried that relay. Thank God it wasn't the ECU. I ordered a new relay (41.00 from yammi) while I was waiting for the replacement I decided to open the old one up to see wht made it tick. You have to break the housing apart to get it open as it it well sealed but once inside it is basic electronics. All it contains is 2 relays and a few switching diodes.My electronics background helped to diagnose the problem. I founda burned trace and two blown diodes. I repaired the trace and replaced the diodes andall was well again.
[/list]

Warrior Electric Starting System-Enhanced Schematic & More: http://rswarrior.com/forums/t/113929.aspxThis is everything you will ever need to know if you read both documents!


I'm assuming you have the 2-ground wires tied together to each other ONLY as suggested early on? The Relay Unit is partially encapsulated from the environments and houses 2-relays and diodes as discussed by RF_WIZ. It's possible that the tracing on the circuit boardis burnt differently based on your senario of shorting.

This Relay Unit houses most of the components that comprise the starting system interlock logic that interfaces with the ECU and is where i would start as well as reviewing both the grounds for burning or shorting from the +12v.

GOOD LUCK

EDITED: Maybe RF_WIZ will sell you his repaired relay for testing purposes
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ok will have to wait till tomorrow to get another relay. AllanH is there a way to test the relay off the bike?
 
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