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Discussion Starter #1
Fellow Warriors, I don't post much, but have certainly used the site for much technical information. I thank you for your insight and creativity! I have a problem with my Rinehart Racing Flush Cut exhaust. They are four years old. The rear cylinder / top pipe has cracked almost completely across the entire pipe near the header. See pictures...


On bike...





Off Bike...





Has anyone else had a similar problem? Was it caused by incorrect installation? Were the bottom bracket boltstoo tight or out of alignment which caused excessive pressure at the header?


Can this be fixed by welding? If so, I would think that would affect exhaust flow. Am I screwed? Do I need to replace it? Thanks for any help/advice.http://rswarrior.com/photos/donsmith/images/981132/original.aspx
 

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donsmith said:
Fellow Warriors, I don't post much, but have certainly used the site for much technical information. I thank you for your insight and creativity! I have a problem with my Rinehart Racing Flush Cut exhaust. They are four years old. The rear cylinder / top pipe has cracked almost completely across the entire pipe near the header. See pictures...


Has anyone else had a similar problem? Was it caused by incorrect installation? Were the bottom bracket boltstoo tight or out of alignment which caused excessive pressure at the header?


Can this be fixed by welding? If so, I would think that would affect exhaust flow. Am I screwed? Do I need to replace it? Thanks for any help/advice.


http://rswarrior.com/photos/donsmith/images/981132/original.aspx
Wow ..... that's really disappointing to see for such an expensive pipe Don.


First thing i would do is contact the Mfg and see if they will replace the top pipe at N.C. Send an e-mail with the photos or save your post as a Web mht extension and send it as an attachment as well so that they know you've posted it on the rsw forum.


IMO the pipe can be repaired and reinforcedusing TIGand if you're that concerned about the gas flowthe ID can be ground with a Dremel or equiv if needed.


I have hands on experience with oneset of 2-yr oldRineharts staggered with another members bike last year or sothat we brought back to stock. These pipes were in pristine condition and not abused in the twisties. Bottom line, IMO based on observation,the slotted weldedmounting bracket that was attached to the exhaust pipe was verly poorly designed as there was metal fatigue at the connection points.


The root cause for this type of failure leaves room for lots of speculation as we will see as others chime in!


The steel tubing for exhaust pipes is commonly mandrel bent. Theeffects of this process are thatthe outside radius thins the inside radius gets thicker and the vertical centerline is considered the neutral axis and the mat'l thickness remains unchanged. Normal failure is generally on the outside radius where the mat'l is thinned from bending and runs down the tube, not around it, as shown here!


After reviewing your gallery based on model year and modsand ruling out a loose motor & lean engineI wouldspeculatethat the toppipe was either being stressed very badlyby the mounting bracket or loose at the bracket causing the radial failure or is quite possiblya common failure because of the inability of the pipe to expand when hot because of it's short design...Just my thoughts and .02


Red dusty residue is a clue of wearing/fatigue just like on the frt steel pulley....so inspect all the attachment points. The exhaust port elbow is aluminum so only the steel parts will have this residue.


Good luck and let the speculation begin
 

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Same thing happened to mine but a little lower on the rear pipe. Mine were always tight & fitment was good.


My ft pipe cracked @ the head flange last year & I mig welded it back together which required some grinding afterward to allow proper sealing at the gasket area & has held up well since then.


About 6-7 weeks ago the rear pipe crackedas yours did. I was looking the bike over the night before a race day & found a lot of exhaust coming from behind the heat shield about 4" down from the top of the shield. I cut off the top section of the heat shield just above the upper mounting tabs using a high speed cut off wheel to allow access th repair cracks/gaps. I tapped all pieces back into position with small hammer them welded it all back together, Then stitched the heat shield back on. Now it looks like a true warrior with battle scars!!! The welds have held up so far but I expect them to crack again as the metal has been fatigued.


Did the damage & repair affect performance? probally but I won the race the next day!!!


My pipes were about 3 years old & Bubs told me they were not covered, however my first set were replaced under warranty when they were about 1.5 years old because the welds on the heat shields broke.


I purchased a new set of Rinehart's (staggered) to replace my cracked ones & will put them on over winter unless I sell them & get a different pipe. My new (still in box, never installed) Rinehart's may be for sale if interested.


Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys, I may try to repair, but I'll also have to cut the heat shield off and reattach it, probably losing some chrome doing so.


I still have the original stock exhaust, never used, was replaced with Rineharts right at dealer when new by the original owner. I've been wondering whether to fix these, replace with new ones or try a Bub slip-on. Anyone have direct comparison between Rinehart Staggered and the Bub slip-on?
 

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Not that long ago DK was auctioning off both Rinehart pipes at a very favorable price. I think the staggered pipes were going for $395.00 & straights @ $450.00 or $475.00 with but 1-bid or none at times!


I must admit when i swapped out the staggered pipesi don't recall the heat shields being welded on
...the aftermarket pipes i have used on my bikes have had Hat Section Tabs that are welded to the heat shields and use SS hose clamps to the inner pipe which allow them to expand.


My V&H BigShots sound like Rice Krispies (snap, crackle & pop) when i shut the engine down..... almost like the Click of Death ....


Welded heat shields doesn't make much sense to me for manufacturing unless they weld the tab onto the heat shield prior to chroming and then would have to take special precautions when welding the chromed part to the exhaust



EDITED: well it's obvious here that there is a problem with this exhaustand it's notPilot Error


Many years ago living in snow country it was expected to replace a muffler every few years on an automobile. I've never given any thought what so everthat my exhaust on the Warrior would require replacement except if i wanted to change the look!
 

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Must be a flaw characteristic of the Rinehart rear header pipe. Mine did the same. I contatcted Bub's and they replaced my entire rear pipe for free, but it has to be within 1 year from date of purchase.
 

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Yeah, had the same thing happen to my Rinehart's. Looks like the crack started at the weld of the heat shields. They replaced my entire set. Give support an email and you may get a full set. Think I had mine a couple of years and they still replaced them even though I had them powder coated too.
 

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I had purchased a set of the flush cut from DK. I wasn't able to get the rear pipe to line up and seal.


They exchanged it 3 time w/ the same results.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Quick update...


Brad (warrantyat Bub Enterprises) offered a compromise. They no longer carry/sell these pipes. He's willing to sell me a set of Jugg Huggers at what I think is their cost. Which ironically is the same price that DK has for a set of Rinehart Flush Cuts for sale.


After research here and realizing that mine and other's Rineharts have cracked, I'm leaning towards his offer for the Jugg Huggers. Any reason why I should not?
 

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donsmith said:
Quick update...


Brad (warrantyat Bub Enterprises) offered a compromise. They no longer carry/sell these pipes. He's willing to sell me a set of Jugg Huggers at what I think is their cost. Which ironically is the same price that DK has for a set of Rinehart Flush Cuts for sale.


After research here and realizing that mine and other's Rineharts have cracked, I'm leaning towards his offer for the Jugg Huggers. Any reason why I should not?
Have it welded.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
OK, here's what I decided to do...I did take Bub's offer and purchased the Jugg Huggers at cost. They look great and sound deeper with a bit more growl than my Rineharts. Sorry, I need to take some pics. I had my bike dyno tuned on Wednesday. I managed to get 82 HP, I was hoping for more. I'm sure the 2 into 1 style are best performing. I may look into different baffles I think I remember reading from someone here that are better for the Jugg Huggers.


I listed the following items on eBay that end on Tuesday (hoping to offset some of the cost of the new pipes):

  1. Cracked Rineharts described in this discussion - http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&item=160301026023

  2. Stock exhaust in perfect condition - http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&item=160301024662

  3. Rinehart exhaust tip (purple) - http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&item=160301028409
 
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