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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone, hoping someone can assist.

I've only owned my 2004 warrior one month but I am completely loving it.

Today I noticed no tach/speedo, signals, horn, etc. Found that the #2 10amp fuse was blown. Replaced it, only to have it pop as soon as I turned the key to on.

Recently, I snapped in a incandescent indicator light to prevent COD - because of front LED turn signals. Stuffing the headlamp back in was obviously tight. I think that's the issue but have my doubts.

I disconnected the indicator light, completely disconnected the turn signal wires but had the same result - fuse popped immediately.

Then I tried to unplug everything that had to do with the brown wire: left handlebar external connections, same with right, horn, rear signal cluster, removed the speedo completely. I think that's it.

Can someone give me some guidance please on next steps? I've checked the wires and don't see any obvious problems or breaks. What causes the fuse to pop? E.g. is it a condition where it might be a broken ground or the power is grounding out incorrectly?

I guess the next steps are to start to cut apart the wiring bundles and inspect every wire.

Again back to my original suspicion - I'm pretty sure this happened after I did the indicator light and shoved the wires back in the headlight bucket - but I'm not sure.

Thanks in advance for your help. I've been really enjoying this forum and learning a lot. Hopefully I can contribute to the community soon!

Thanks, Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Hi everyone, hoping someone can assist.

I've only owned my 2004 warrior one month but I am completely loving it.

Today I noticed no tach/speedo, signals, horn, etc. Found that the #2 10amp fuse was blown. Replaced it, only to have it pop as soon as I turned the key to on.

Recently, I snapped in a incandescent indicator light to prevent COD - because of front LED turn signals. Stuffing the headlamp back in was obviously tight. I think that's the issue but have my doubts.

I disconnected the indicator light, completely disconnected the turn signal wires but had the same result - fuse popped immediately.

Then I tried to unplug everything that had to do with the brown wire: left handlebar external connections, same with right, horn, rear signal cluster, removed the speedo completely. I think that's it.

Can someone give me some guidance please on next steps? I've checked the wires and don't see any obvious problems or breaks. What causes the fuse to pop? E.g. is it a condition where it might be a broken ground or the power is grounding out incorrectly?

I guess the next steps are to start to cut apart the wiring bundles and inspect every wire.

Again back to my original suspicion - I'm pretty sure this happened after I did the indicator light and shoved the wires back in the headlight bucket - but I'm not sure.

Thanks in advance for your help. I've been really enjoying this forum and learning a lot. Hopefully I can contribute to the community soon!

Thanks, Bill
To be completely transparent - The only other things I've done have been to change the oil/filter, new plugs, adjust the belt tension, refill brake fluids, etc. I'm pretty good with a wrench but I do make mistakes.

I'm only providing this in the event that it could help you help me. ?
 

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There is a blue off the signal 10a fuse brown that feeds rear brake tail license plate.

There is another blue off the headlight 15a fuse red/yellow that feeds front running lights and tach.

Where exactly did you insert the filament bulb to solve COD, and did it solve it?
 

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Usually, if you keep blowing a fuse as soon as you turn the key on, you have a direct short somewhere. Look for a grounded hot wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
There is a sky blue off the signal 10a fuse brown that feeds rear brake tail license plate.

There is another sky blue off the headlight 15a fuse red/yellow that feeds front running lights and tach.

Where exactly did you insert the filament bulb to solve COD, and did it solve it?
I did this in the headlight bucket. It was the blue and black wires. I have since removed that bulb.

It did solve it, but I always shut it off with the key now.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Usually, if you keep blowing a fuse as soon as you turn the key on, you have a direct short somewhere. Look for a grounded hot wire.
I was guessing as much. Aside from visually seeing this...how would I find it?
 

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  1. Ok. That blue wire is not fed by the signal fuse (brown wire) so it is not related to your trouble.
About COD protection, the coil-side of a mini-relay installed under the rider seat will last much longer, but in any event you are okay to put back some method of COD protection.

I gather your stock rear license plate light is also removed, is that right?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Check for shorts:
Power wire to both horns.
Power wire to front and rear brake switches.
Wires at the opaque 4-wire (brown/blue/black/yellow-blue) tach coupling.
Thanks, I will check this later after work. I believe I disconnected all of the plugs for those wires - except for the 2nd horn. Stupid question, where is the other horn? The plug I disconnected is on the horn that is near the left footpeg.

If you wouldn't mind, what's a good way to find a short? I believe I can use a multimeter to check for continuity - but physically that's kind of hard when working with a harness/wiring bundle that winds through the bike.

Thanks for the help, I really appreciate it. Will let you know what I find.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Look under the rear fender. Your tire probably wore through the wiring there from bottoming out ect.
Thanks for the suggestion, I really appreciate it. Will let you know what I find later / after work.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok. That sky blue wire is not fed by the signal fuse (brown wire) so it is not related to your trouble.

About COD protection, the coil-side of a mini-relay installed under the rider seat will last much longer, but in any event you are okay to put back some method of COD protection.

I gather your stock rear license plate light is also removed, is that right?
Thanks for the advice about the COD protection. For now, I have it completely removed.

I believe the tail light, rear signals, and license plate lates are still stock - but I'm not sure - it was from the previous owner. I think have have the rear cluster unplugged, but need to double check.
 

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For this phase its hand-and-eyes, its more common for a direct short to be caused by physical damage to a wire at or near its connection point. Its less common to be in the harness. So start by visually inspecting for signs of electrical arcing.

The other horn, stock, is by the right foot controls. It might have been removed. But its wires could be abandoned in place nearby.

The method is to look at and near the electrical loads connected to that 15a fuse brown wire, to start. Metering will not be any faster. If a coupling exists then inspect wires/pins both sides, and internal. Even if you did it before.

From your posts, I gather all was well and for no apparent reason this short developed. So once the horns/headlight bucket etc etc pass inspection then look gently under the rider seat next, and while there check for water filling the battery/relay box, it has a drain but weird things happen.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
For this phase its hand-and-eyes, its more common for a direct short to be caused by physical damage to a wire at or near its connection point. Its less common to be in the harness. So start by visually inspecting for signs of electrical arcing.

The other horn, stock, is by the right foot controls. It might have been removed. But its wires could be abandoned in place nearby.

The method is to look at and near the electrical loads connected to that 15a fuse brown wire, to start. Metering will not be any faster. If a coupling exists then inspect wires/pins both sides, and internal. Even if you did it before.

From your posts, I gather all was well and for no apparent reason this short developed. So once the horns/headlight bucket etc etc pass inspection then look gently under the rider seat next, and while there check for water filling the battery/relay box, it has a drain but weird things happen.
Thanks for verifying this. I really think I shorted a wire when stuffing the headlight back in. I did it carefully at the time, but now I'm doubting myself. However, I'm going to take everyone's advice and check everywhere I can think of.

I think I'm going to buy one of those wire tracers - I will definitely use it after this.

Thanks again for your help!
 

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Thanks for verifying this. I really think I shorted a wire when stuffing the headlight back in. I did it carefully at the time, but now I'm doubting myself. However, I'm going to take everyone's advice and check everywhere I can think of.



I think I'm going to buy one of those wire tracers - I will definitely use it after this.



Thanks again for your help!
I would tend to agree that the coincidence of the short happening after the wiring was pulled out and put back into the headlight suggests the problem is in there.
Open it back up and pull everything out and then see if it still shorts. If not then you know it's there somewhere.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok. That sky blue wire is not fed by the signal fuse (brown wire) so it is not related to your trouble.

About COD protection, the coil-side of a mini-relay installed under the rider seat will last much longer, but in any event you are okay to put back some method of COD protection.

I gather your stock rear license plate light is also removed, is that right?
Hey Arizona - I checked and sure enough, the rear license plate light was replaced with an LED....and not very well. I noticed a black wire snaked around and the last owner didn't run it with the other wires, but jammed it here and there and also outside the front of the rear fender.

So, I completely removed the rear fender and found some interesting things. You can see in the pics the wire was jammed in between the fender mounts, and the wire was tightened to be super flat - about 1/3 the width of a dime. I tested both wires for continuity, and both were ok - but this was after I removed the wire from the fender. Either way, I replaced it and ran the wire properly.

(hopefully the pics attached properly)

I'm going to make another post after this one, to update on the additional progress I made tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I think I made some good progress tonight. See my previous post about the license plate light, etc.

So after rewiring the rear license plate light, I did not reinstall yet. Instead I found a good picture from alanh showing a picture of the headlight bucket connections. I have also been using the wiring diagram, but this was much better. (I can't post links yet - but it's under the stupid-headlight-wont-work-part-ii - post2242938)

With pretty much everything disconnected, I reconnected 4 plugs (see pic) -
- ignition switch
- RH Handlebar switch
- (2) LH handlebar switch
(the horn relay was untouched)

I put another new fuse in (I've been going thru these like potato chips) and turned on the key - and it didn't blow. :)

If I didn't have to work tomorrow, I'd keep going.....

SO FAR SO GOOD!

I'll keep updating this thread as I continue through this problem.

Thanks to everyone so far, for your knowledge and patience. I am a member of other non-MC forums and the response and cooperation here is amazing.

Thanks again! I will update again in a day or so.

Thanks, Bill
 

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^^^^ What Rudy said ^^^^^


Is the bike lowered??


Dutch
 

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Discussion Starter #20
^^^^ What Rudy said ^^^^^


Is the bike lowered??


Dutch
yes it is. when I took the fender off - I did that to check if bottoming out had something to do with it. All the other wires/bundles looked fine, even under the metal shield on the backside of the fender.
 
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