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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys hope everyones staying safe and enjoying their weekend! Im not much of an electrical guy. I cut my old signals off, bought these off amazon (hoping theyre good quality) trying to install them but cant get them to work properly. The reviews said i need resistors so i bought some. Now im not sure how to wire everything back up properly. I dont mind the fast flickering as long as its not bad for the bike. I would like to hear a professionals opinion on how to do this. Im doing all 4. Thanks guys!
 

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It would depend on the new signal lights if they are 2 wire or three wire. Also you did not specify if you are talking about front or rear as the front flashers also may have the run function whereas the rear usually just have the flash function. If you are just changing out either the rear or the front and the new ones are LEDS then you will have a faster flash rate. Personally I like the faster flash rate but if you want it to return to the normal rate then a resistor is required. I would try to wire the new ones in temporarily without the resistor to start. The OEM wires are colored as follows
blue = run
black = ground
green = right flasher
brown = left flasher
Lets look at the front flashers as they may be the most complicated as you have to add the run function. Your stock front flashers thus have 3 wires blue for the run function, black for teh ground and either green or brown depending on the side for the flash. Now if your new flashers have three wires you gave to figure out which wire is which as usually they will not come with instructions. the three wire chinese flashers will have probably red, black and green wires, or yellow green and black or another combination. Do not assume that the black wire is the ground as I have seen them use the green wire as well. You have to figure out which of these wires is which. You can easily test them using a 9 volt battery. start by touching the black wire to the negative and then one of the colored wires to the positive,. It should light up. I will use one that I have on hand for an example. it has black yellow and green. The black is my ground when I touch the black to the negative and either the green or the yellow to the positive the flasher lights up. Now to determine which of the green and yellow is run and flash. touch the black to the neg and the yellow to the positive. then once that is done touch the positive with the green while the yellow is still touching. the light should get brighter. If it does then his means that the green is the run and the yellow is the flash. If it does not get brighter then switch the two wires and attach one and then add the other. It is easy to find which wire is which. if you only have two wires from your flasher unit then you cannot use the run function and it is quite easy. One wire is the ground and one is flash function. test on the 9 volt battery to see which is which.

Once you have determined which wire is which then you can attach them to the OEM wire using the wiring colors I provided earlier.

Now if you don't like the fast flash rate once all is connected you can add the resistor. The resistor should have instructions. Just remember resistors get hot so you need top install it in a location that will not affect other wiring etc.

If you have a two wire flasher and you absolutely want to use the flash and run function then you can add a dual element circuit to your flasher which can be purchased through Radiantz. fi this is the case then contact me and i can help you choose which dual element is the best for your flashers.
 

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just reread and saw you are changing out all 4 flashers. Usually you will have 3 wires up front and 2 in the back. By changing out all 4 flashers you may get COD if your license plate light is changed out to a LED as well. The stock flasher unit on the Warrior is mechanical. It requires a load to function properly. If all the incandescent bulbs are switched to LEDS then there is not enough load to make the flasher unit function properly or sometimes at all. There have been many discussions here on COD and how to prevent it or cure it as a great many members have gone to LED flashers.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Chris thanks so much for all the info, super helpful! Yeah theyre just 2 wire flashers and I'm okay with the faster blinkers and no running light so you're saying i can wire up all 4 normally and should be good right. I will also use led for my license plate and wire that up and ive seen how to fix the COD so ill do that as well. I was a little confused with your last message it seems like youre saying changing all 4 flashers might be an issue?
 

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Had an experience, replacing the rear lighting with a LED with brake light with integrated direction indicators and no license plate light
and with LED lamp in the head light and there was no COD.

On the second bike, I also successfully “shaved” the rear light, leaving only a brake light. I also put in the headlight an LED lamp of the same model as I used before. And everything was predictable until the moment I turned off the ONE front turn signal indicator. And I was visited by COD))) I have suffered for a whole moto-season)) After finally the resistors came from ali and I solved the problem.

The 50W RJ6 resistor visible in the photo is not the right choice. I was planed to put 25W RJ6. But this forum has dissuaded me do this. I'm lucky! One men tried to set 25W RJ6.8 for the COD solution - the insulation of the wiring and some connectors was melted:



 

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Discussion Starter #6
Had an experience, replacing the rear lighting with a LED with brake light with integrated direction indicators and no license plate light
and with LED lamp in the head light and there was no COD.

On the second bike, I also successfully “shaved” the rear light, leaving only a brake light. I also put in the headlight an LED lamp of the same model as I used before. And everything was predictable until the moment I turned off the ONE front turn signal indicator. And I was visited by COD))) I have suffered for a whole moto-season)) After finally the resistors came from ali and I solved the problem.

The 50W RJ6 resistor visible in the photo is not the right choice. I was planed to put 25W RJ6. But this forum has dissuaded me do this. I'm lucky! One men tried to set 25W RJ6.8 for the COD solution - the insulation of the wiring and some connectors was melted:



Okay so youre saying Do Not use resistors?
 

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For Click of Death solution, its far better imo to use a mini relay. Connect only the COIL side. Better heat dissipation and lasts great.

Separate from this, some UK bikes were factory shipped with incandescent tail-brake lights, and sometimes sparate high-low beam headlight bulbs, and sometimes no front RUNNING LIGHTS only front signals.
 

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Chris thanks so much for all the info, super helpful! Yeah theyre just 2 wire flashers and I'm okay with the faster blinkers and no running light so you're saying i can wire up all 4 normally and should be good right. I will also use led for my license plate and wire that up and ive seen how to fix the COD so ill do that as well. I was a little confused with your last message it seems like youre saying changing all 4 flashers might be an issue?
If you change only 2 flashers you will get the faster flash rate but COD is usually not an issue. if you change out all four flashers for LEDS and the license plate light is LED then you will probably get COD. Also if you change out all four of the flashers then you could have an issue with the flashers not working as has happened in some cases. The Flasher itself is a mechanical flasher and needs a load to operate. if you have issues with the flashers not working when you change out all 4 then you either have to go to an electronic flasher or wire in a load resistor. I beleive Arizona did a write up on going to an electronic flasher should you decide to go this route.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Okay so here's where im at, i wired up the 2 front flashers and basically just closed off the blue wire with a butt connector. The flashers work flashing fast but now my headlight doesn't. Am i supposed to do something else with that blue wire? Im going to connect the back 2 and see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Lol yep headlights fine thanks alanh!
So wired everything up. All 4 flashers work (fast) wired up the led license plate light and turned the bike on and off and didnt hear anything. When should i expect this COD. Btw thanks everyone for helpin me out, really appreciate what you guys do on the forum! Here's my bike so far.
 

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Man that's a good looking Warrior
Really like the color scheme...

Man that is one low warrior from what I can see..
Are u running a AirRide ?.?

Or just lowered it

Sent from my SM-A102U1 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #14
No just barons lowering links, might just be the way i took the picture, but thanks man yeah i love this thing. Here it is when i bought it at the end of last summer.
 

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Okay so here's where im at, i wired up the 2 front flashers and basically just closed off the blue wire with a butt connector. The flashers work flashing fast but now my headlight doesn't. Am i supposed to do something else with that blue wire? Im going to connect the back 2 and see what happens.
Okay. You said the led's you bought have no resistance-replacement built-in, but that with all 4 connected they flash fast same as with just 2 front connected.

Based on your posts here, I expected that when you connect the two rear led signals, that means you will have all led signals and the flasher will not see a load. They will not flash. To make them flash you will need resistors (one for left side and one for right side) or (one integrated assembly available on-line at specialty shops).

This flash issue solution is separate from the cod issue.

If you remove the stock incandescent front signals then you remove also the front running light bulbs (they are 2 filament bulbs in front). If you also remove the stock incandescent license plate bulbs then you invite cod because at shutdown the residual voltage will go thru the decompression solenoid coil and drain your battery. It can also faintly phantom-light your gauge.

Christok provided a really cool couple posts for you in this thread earlier. If you wait to recognize cod symptoms then you invite getting stranded.

Just remember: the cause and symptoms of fastflash/noflash are lack of electrical load from turn signal filaments. The cause of cod is lack of electrical load from front running light and/or license plate light filaments.

Wondering.
 

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For Click of Death solution, its far better imo to use a mini relay. Connect only the COIL side. Better heat dissipation and lasts great.

Separate from this, some UK bikes were factory shipped with incandescent tail-brake lights, and sometimes sparate high-low beam headlight bulbs, and sometimes no front RUNNING LIGHTS only front signals.
to add to this, All EU spec bikes have a running light inside the headlight unit (a filament bulb) as running lights were (and prob are) prohibited in the indicator housings. So on a EU spec bike you're fine to go to LED all around as long as you leave that running light in the headlight bucket.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ahh okay so should i even bother with the turn signals. Like i said i dont mind them flashing fast as long as that's okay to leave like that. As for the cod yeah i changed the license plate light to an led so i will do something about the COD. I saw bryan on YouTube fix the COD i was just planning to fix it that way.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
to add to this, All EU spec bikes have a running light inside the headlight unit (a filament bulb) as running lights were (and prob are) prohibited in the indicator housings. So on a EU spec bike you're fine to go to LED all around as long as you leave that running light in the headlight bucket.
Sorry im a little confused. Theres a running light in the headlight bucket? I didnt really mess with the headlight except change the bulb to a bright hid one.
 

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Sorry im a little confused. Theres a running light in the headlight bucket? I didnt really mess with the headlight except change the bulb to a bright hid one.
only EU spec Warriors, as you're in Canuckistan you prob had running lights in the indicators.
simple way to check is turn on the ignition.. if the headlight lights up faintly you got the EU spec headlight..
 

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Discussion Starter #20
only EU spec Warriors, as you're in Canuckistan you prob had running lights in the indicators.
simple way to check is turn on the ignition.. if the headlight lights up faintly you got the EU spec headlight..
Yeah i had running lights but my new ones didnt have the option so i just capped off the blue running wire. What else could i have done?
 
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