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Basically.. if i understand correctly.. you add a bulb, resistor or something similar to the blue wire.. or train yourself to only shut the bike down with the key when it's in neutral.
There are several threads with details from people who know more about it than i do. i have an EU spec bike so it doesn't bother me personally.
 

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Peter is right. to avoid COD you can turn your bike off in neutral using the key to turn it off and not using the kill switch. This just prevents the COD but does not cure it. Some people add a small light (incandescent) to the run circuit and hide it in the headlight. This provides a load and as such will prevent/cure COD. The only disadvantage to adding the light and hiding it in the headlight is that you cannot see it if it burns out. If you are running some kind of fairing you could put the light inside the fairing so that you can see it but it does not distract you while riding or at night. COD and the fast flash rate (and in some cases flashers not working) are two different issues that come when people change all four flashers and their license plate light over to LEDS.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Thanks so much guys! I'm going to do something about the cod. Really appreciate everyones help! This forum is awesome!
 

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Okay so here's where im at, i wired up the 2 front flashers and basically just closed off the blue wire with a butt connector. The flashers work flashing fast but now my headlight doesn't. Am i supposed to do something else with that blue wire? Im going to connect the back 2 and see what happens.
Thanks so much guys! I'm going to do something about the cod. Really appreciate everyones help! This forum is awesome!
COD (Click of Death) suggested patch by this writer for a professional install:
For your specific situation, because you're not using the running light circuit I would suggest installing a passive device in the headlight housing. You'll need to make up a jumper (as shown below or equivalent) for the Ground to branch into the front signal bullet connector. You have 2-abandoned Blue Female snap connectors in the headlight so no problem there.
You can of course just tap into the ground as you please :>)
  • 10w 100Ω resistor.
  • NTE # 10WM110 or equivalent
  • A resistor is a passive two-terminal electrical component!
  • Will generate 1.9 Watts @ 13.8 vdc
This passive device will not harm the wiring ;)


 

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My Original Install differed from yours because I used Dual Circuit LED's for the Front Lights and chose to tap into the main harness under seat as shown below. I also accommodated connections for my DIY Load Equalizer since all my lights are LED's.
If interested in my Install: Running Light Resistor & Relay & Load Equalizer-Turn Signals
 

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Discussion Starter #26
COD (Click of Death) suggested patch by this writer for a professional install:
For your specific situation, because you're not using the running light circuit I would suggest installing a passive device in the headlight housing. You'll need to make up a jumper (as shown below or equivalent) for the Ground to branch into the front signal bullet connector. You have 2-abandoned Blue Female snap connectors in the headlight so no problem there.
You can of course just tap into the ground as you please :>)
  • 10w 100Ω resistor.
  • NTE # 10WM110 or equivalent
  • A resistor is a passive two-terminal electrical component!
  • Will generate 1.9 Watts @ 13.8 vdc
This passive device will not harm the wiring ;)


Thanks for this! Still a bit confused as to what you mean by this. So do i use the resistor or passive device. And how do you wire it up ? Sorry if this is a dumb question ive honestly never done this lol
 

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  • A resistor is a passive two-terminal electrical component! (It is not polarity sensitive)
  • You now have 2-abandoned Blue Female snap connectors in the headlight that were used for the OEM front running lights. Use one of them for one wire of the resistor.
  • You can make up a jumper as shown above or alternately you can branch/tap directly into the Black wire (Ground) for the Turn Signals and connect to the remaining wire of the resistor.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
  • A resistor is a passive two-terminal electrical component! (It is not polarity sensitive)
  • You now have 2-abandoned Blue Female snap connectors in the headlight that were used for the OEM front running lights. Use one of them for one wire of the resistor.
  • You can make up a jumper as shown above or alternately you can branch/tap directly into the Black wire (Ground) for the Turn Signals and connect to the remaining wire of the resistor.
Okay i think i understand. Now do i have to do anything with the back 2? Also this has nothing to do with COD right.
 

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