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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so bit of the back story.
I have 2003 warrior. With PC3 (serial) V&H big shots, VBAK.
Also hadsome other minor mods done. Also has that annoying COD. This is where the issue starts lol.
I replaced the battery. Bike was running and starting great.
I just found a heap of maps to try with the PC3
I had my daughters bday last Sunday. So I moved my bike into neighbours garage to create some space. He rang me couple days later saying my bike still making a clicking noise. I knew straight away it was COD.
Got bike home. Battery dead. Friday night I charged it over night, Saturday morning it started fine. Took it off charge. Played footy, came back later in the day, wouldn't start. Put it back on charge. It started. Took for quick spin, got to servo. Wouldn't start. Got a jump start. Got it home. Left on charge over night. Sunday morning it started. Left it on charge, hooked my laptop up to PC3 to load a map. Smoke started coming from the negative and earth terminal. Took PC3 off bike. Bike just makes 1 click and that's it. But then I looked at the starter motor and that plastic cover on the terminal has bene melted abit. I've pulled apart the starter motor that all looks OK. Bike still won't start.
Im thinking maybe my laptop was just to much for it and shorted it. Hoping it's just the battery.
My laptop works fine still though

Have I fried thr bike or is the battery just completely cooked ?
 

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The battery is only 2 weeks old
This means nothing.
So are you saying the starter motor needs replacing or the battery ?
Measure the battery for inrush current. Probably replace it with something stronger. Starter, contacts, clean its brushes. You don't need to replace the starter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
This means nothing.

Measure the battery for inrush current. Probably replace it with something stronger. Starter, contacts, clean its brushes. You don't need to replace the starter.
I literally just put the starter motor back on. Took it off. Opened it up and cleaned it out. I'll get a new battery and see what happens. Hoping I havnt done any damage anywhere. Not sure what would have caused the smoke coming from the earth and negative terminal and also burnt the rubber cover on the starter motor terminal
 

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You need to correctly address COD first. Then inspect the start relay (the one with two 30a fuses one of which is a spare). This is a very specific device. Use the Yamaha part intended for the Warrior. Buy it from Yamaha. Seriously. It's the best way to get the correct part.

Separately you might need to replace the start logic and fuel injection relay, it's diode may be compromised. This part is specific to model years. Again, get it from Yamaha.

A good cod solution uses a good quality lighting micro-relay (connect the coil side into the cod path). Lots of ink around here.

Bottom line: your new battery is dead. It's why it's called click of death. Fix the cause first. Then new relays as above. Then a new correct battery.

In that mix, you might need a new starter-cable, a new starter (if the heat caused the magnets to come loose, or melted solder) and possibly a new POS and/or NEG battery cables. You'll want to inspect the NEG connection to frame near the oil filler cap.

These items need attention because there is no way to know what circuits have been affected over time on your ride, and no way to know who attempted what in order to start the bike.

The AUS bikes came from factory direct to AUS and others came from other countries. These may have slightly different wiring. So you need to identify the FACTORY BUILD YEAR of your bike. My guess is it's a 2003 build year model, but what country was is built for?

Two places:
Check your ECU:

Check your Frame Tag:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You need to correctly address COD first. Then inspect the start relay (the one with two 30a fuses one of which is a spare). This is a very specific device. Use the Yamaha part intended for the Warrior. Buy it from Yamaha. Seriously. It's the best way to get the correct part.

Separately you might need to replace the start logic and fuel injection relay, it's diode may be compromised. This part is specific to model years. Again, get it from Yamaha.

A good cod solution uses a good quality lighting micro-relay (connect the coil side into the cod path). Lots of ink around here.

Bottom line: your new battery is dead. It's why it's called click of death. Fix the cause first. Then new relays as above. Then a new correct battery.

In that mix, you might need a new starter-cable, a new starter (if the heat caused the magnets to come loose, or melted solder) and possibly a new POS and/or NEG battery cables. You'll want to inspect the NEG connection to frame near the oil filler cap.

These items need attention because there is no way to know what circuits have been affected over time on your ride, and no way to know who attempted what in order to start the bike.

The AUS bikes came from factory direct to AUS and others came from other countries. These may have slightly different wiring. So you need to identify the FACTORY BUILD YEAR of your bike. My guess is it's a 2003 build year model, but what country was is built for?

Two places:
Check your ECU:

Check your Frame Tag:
Wow thanks for the reply and info mate. Ill take it all on board. I was going to address the cod first. I've seen one solution, is to attach a incandescent bulb to one of the indicators inside the headlight casing. It's meant to allow somewhere for the left over energy to go. Would that work ?
I've checked the starter motor. All magnets etc... we're fine. The neg cable is fine, it just has some slight rubber melted. Tiny bit. The earth cable the connects near the oil cap. Looks fine. I'm going to check the starter relay aswell
 

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When you say 'indicator' you mean turn signal. No.

First chore is to verify your specific bike. Do this. Remove the light bulb from your turn signal light. Does it have just one filament? Or two filaments? What is the bulb part number?

Next chore:
If just one filament, then the bulb probably is turn signal only. If two filaments, then one filament serves the turn signal and the other filament serves the front RUNNING light.

COD is fixed by adding a load into the wire supplying the RUNNING LIGHT filament. If this does not exist in the front then it can be found elsewhere.

IF YOU USE A BULB to fix COD then every time the bulb blows your COD will unexpectedly return. The factory used 4 redundant incandescent bulbs to minimize: the two separate front RUNNING light bulbs. Plus the two separate LICENSE PLATE light bulbs. That is how critical this is.

INSTEAD, IF YOU USE A MICRO-RELAY to fix COD you get the best protection for the longest amount of time. The coil side of a good quality lighting relay is good for many thousands of cycles and does no care about rain or temperature changes.

It's simpler to use a relay. Bulbs will do damage to adjacent wiring unless protected in a housing. And bulbs WILL FAIL whether from impact or heat transfer or age or other negative potentials.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
When you say 'indicator' you mean turn signal. No.

First chore is to verify your specific bike. Do this. Remove the light bulb from your turn signal light. Does it have just one filament? Or two filaments? What is the bulb part number?

Next chore:
If just one filament, then the bulb probably is turn signal only. If two filaments, then one filament serves the turn signal and the other filament serves the front RUNNING light.

COD is fixed by adding a load into the wire supplying the RUNNING LIGHT filament. If this does not exist in the front then it can be found elsewhere.

IF YOU USE A BULB to fix COD then every time the bulb blows your COD will unexpectedly return. The factory used 4 redundant incandescent bulbs to minimize: the two separate front RUNNING light bulbs. Plus the two separate LICENSE PLATE light bulbs. That is how critical this is.

INSTEAD, IF YOU USE A MICRO-RELAY to fix COD you get the best protection for the longest amount of time. The coil side of a good quality lighting relay is good for many thousands of cycles and does no care about rain or temperature changes.

It's simpler to use a relay. Bulbs will do damage to adjacent wiring unless protected in a housing. And bulbs WILL FAIL whether from impact or heat transfer or age or other negative potentials.
Ah ok makes sense. All my turn signals have been swaped over to small LED turn signals. If that makes a differance to how you solve it
 

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Your headlight bucket should have a blue wire that used to bullet-plug into each stock running/signal housing. That blue wire is your connection. You can alternatively use the color wiring diagram to trace to under the seat and connect the relay there. Do a proper job and you will have no maintenance issues.
 

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Yes, COD can very effective kill the battery. Check the starter relay too. Because if battery is lowed by COD it can even turn the starter. But your can with smoke Yes, COD can very effective kill the battery. Check the starter relay too. Because if battery is lowed by COD it cannot turn the starter. But yours do it with smoke
 

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Pretty much what Arizona said and he has you on the correct path....straight and narrow.
I would 100% replace the neg. & pos. cables as they could be compromised inside the sheathing and you would never know causing you all types of trouble. They are short lengths of cable and when you replace the cable go one or 2 sizes bigger as this will help with starting problems. Also clean up the ground to the frame and make sure the connection is clean, clean clean.
The starter relay like Zona said as well needs to be an OEM Yamaha unit which will cost a few pennies but has been proven to be the only component to correctly work and last.

We all have faith in you and know you can do it.
Hairstyle Facial expression Hat Human Fashion
 

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Pretty much. There are a couple blue wires so just make sure you get the right one.

The incandescent bulb you mentioned earlier is what some do in the headlight bulb. I'm with Arizona that it's not the best idea as COD will come back whenever that one bulb burns out. So, IF you were to do something like that, I've always thought it would be fun to mount the bulb either on your handle bars or near your instruments where a green-lit bulb would mean you're safe from COD, but if it goes out, so will your battery (and who knows what else). I don't have an example of this; just something I've tossed around as an idea if I were to go the bulb route.

Keep posting as you work through this as we love seeing creative solutions to common problems!
 

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Use any good quality automotive micro relay that your local store has in stock. 12 volt.

You do NOT care about its amperage rating because you do not connect the switched side.

You only connect the COIL side (usually marked 85 and 86). The coil does the work of a bulb filament but is stronger.

Notice your selected relay's Electrical connection style (how wires are plugged-on) and get matching connectors and a little wire and tape if you need it.
 
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