RS Warrior Forum banner
21 - 40 of 75 Posts

·
Premium Member
'04' Warrior - Super Fine Metallic Black
Joined
·
9,237 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Ok so I've got a new battery and got a pack of resistors. The guy said I need to install a resistor for each turn signal. Is this true. Or do I just need 1 installed anywhere along thay blue wire in the diagram (posted in previous comment)
 

·
[Retired Admin-SuperMod]
Joined
·
31,876 Posts
So stop. Suggest you revisit:

Fixing COD has nothing to do with turn signal filaments (or LED Fast Flash). Its great to address fast flash. But fix COD first or you are going to be buying yet another new battery.

Revisit all suggestions in this thread. Who ever you spoke with about buying resistors for turn signals does not understand the trouble being addressed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter · #26 ·
You need to correctly address COD first. Then inspect the start relay (the one with two 30a fuses one of which is a spare). This is a very specific device. Use the Yamaha part intended for the Warrior. Buy it from Yamaha. Seriously. It's the best way to get the correct part.

Separately you might need to replace the start logic and fuel injection relay, it's diode may be compromised. This part is specific to model years. Again, get it from Yamaha.

A good cod solution uses a good quality lighting micro-relay (connect the coil side into the cod path). Lots of ink around here.

Bottom line: your new battery is dead. It's why it's called click of death. Fix the cause first. Then new relays as above. Then a new correct battery.

In that mix, you might need a new starter-cable, a new starter (if the heat caused the magnets to come loose, or melted solder) and possibly a new POS and/or NEG battery cables. You'll want to inspect the NEG connection to frame near the oil filler cap.

These items need attention because there is no way to know what circuits have been affected over time on your ride, and no way to know who attempted what in order to start the bike.

The AUS bikes came from factory direct to AUS and others came from other countries. These may have slightly different wiring. So you need to identify the FACTORY BUILD YEAR of your bike. My guess is it's a 2003 build year model, but what country was is built for?

Two places:
Check your ECU:

Check your Frame Tag:
I've checked the starter motor. Pulled it off, opened it up checked magnets, etc... starter motor looks fine. I've checked the starter relay, and changed the fuse.
I've checked the NEG and pos cables. Both look good. The earth connection near the oil cap is good.

I just bought a new battery after checking all of them. I hooked the battery up. Still doesn't start. I just get 1 click and that's it. I'm not sure if I even hear the fuel pump prime
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Yes I still need to address COD. Which I'm going to in the process of checking everything. As many suggested my battery was cooked. I wanted to see first if it was just the battery, then I can tick everything else off and address the COD.
 

·
Super Moderator
'05 Midnight
Joined
·
3,518 Posts
Ok got it. Ill go swap the resistors back, and get a micro relay.
Is that the blue wire I hook the relay up too.
Or is it a different one. I have a few in there

View attachment 257624
That’s the one. It has a tandem bullet plug receptacle. Each front signal’s running light plugs in there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter · #34 ·
So that's changed nothing. Still just getting a click and engine light goes on and off.
All I get is 1 click, which sounds like it's coming from near the battery, so I'd say the starter relay is click. But when I turn the ignition to on, I dont even hear the fuel pump prime. Does that suggest that the starter relay isn't working as there no power getting from the battery
 

·
[Retired Admin-SuperMod]
Joined
·
31,876 Posts
You connected the blue to one terminal of the coil side, and the black to the other side? If yes then your bike is protected from COD and now your battery will survive trouble shooting the reported issues.

Your headlight bucket picture looks like 85 and 86 are identified on the relay, but it seems like just one brown wire is connected. If that brown is connected to the blue, but the other terminal is not connected to ground, then you are not protected from COD yet.

After you are protected from COD, your battery will survive troubleshooting of the issues you reported.
 

·
Super Moderator
'05 Midnight
Joined
·
3,518 Posts
It should be blue and black, one on each side per @arizonawarrior’s guidance. Looks like you’re only tapped into black, which should just be ground. Do you see the blue, double-bullet connector receptacle? You’ll want to include that on one side.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter · #40 ·
It should be blue and black, one on each side per @arizonawarrior’s guidance. Looks like you’re only tapped into black, which should just be ground. Do you see the blue, double-bullet connector receptacle? You’ll want to include that on one side.
Yeah ive tapped into the blue wire. And a black wire which has a double- bullet connector. Think my colours might be slightly different.
Bu deffs tapped into a double bullet connector and the blue bullet connect
 
21 - 40 of 75 Posts
Top