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Discussion Starter #1
I've got a couple questions about lowering the bike before pulling the trigger on the purchase. I'm planning on getting Barons Adjustable Rear Lowering Kit (https://www.baronscustom.com/catalog/display/1121/index.html) This seems pretty straight forward to me but I'm wondering about the spring choices. Barons has one on their site (https://www.baronscustom.com/catalog/display/570/index.html) which is rated at 930# which seems fine but I've also seen the PCS's Progressive Rear Spring (https://www.pacificcoaststar.com/pcs/rs-warrior-suspension-rear-shocks-springs.htm) which goes from 825#-1250#. Both springs are about the same price and I'm wondering what thoughts are on which is a better spring. I weigh in at 190-200# and occasionally ride 2 up but not too often and I plan on talking with KyleNV next winter to have my swing arm and tire done.



The last question I have is about Barons "other" Rear Lowering Kit (https://www.baronscustom.com/catalog/display/563/index.html) I'm confused regarding what the benefit of this part is and if I need to get this in addition to the other Adjustable Rear Lowering Kit? Based on the link and the pic it looks like its just replacing the Relay Arm. Is this needed to lower the bike, is it different from the OE, is there a benefit in purchasing and installing this part or is it just a typo on Barons site.



I appreciate your help!
 

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If you want to learn a bit back in the days we did the "flip & grind" which was flipping the OE relay arm and grinding it for clearance and it would lower the bike. But you had to be careful as too much grinding would compromise the integrity and the relay arm could snap.

Barons copied that idea and reconfigured the relay to mimic the flip and grind.

The best bet is to get the adjustable links and stay with the stock spring for now. If you were heavier and did a lot of 2 up riding then I would probably say to get an Eibach 1000 lb spring which is a linear rate spring rather than a progressive.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If you want to learn a bit back in the days we did the "flip & grind" which was flipping the OE relay arm and grinding it for clearance and it would lower the bike. But you had to be careful as too much grinding would compromise the integrity and the relay arm could snap.

Barons copied that idea and reconfigured the relay to mimic the flip and grind.

The best bet is to get the adjustable links and stay with the stock spring for now. If you were heavier and did a lot of 2 up riding then I would probably say to get an Eibach 1000 lb spring which is a linear rate spring rather than a progressive.
So that's where the "flip & grind" is coming from, I kept reading about it on the forum but wasn't sure what it was all about. I think I'm going to stay clear of the flip & grind and do the adjustable links.
 

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I think the way to go is to get adjustable lowering links so you can adjust the height you want and if you ever go to an air ride then you can adjust the lowest point so that in case of a failure your rear fender does not come crashing down on your tire. with respect to springs I think the consensus on the forum seems to be the elbach 1000 or the PCS spring which is a progressive weight spring i.e. the more weight on the back of the bike the higher the spring rate. You just have to remember that with the aftermarket spring the length of the spring is usually shorter than the stock spring (at least the progressive spring is ) so you have to take this length into consideration when you are making the two adjustments rebound/dampening as if you follow the service manual the number of clicks they say will probably not be enough.
 

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