Orient express is using r1 rims on there bikes.

 

I have used two different sets and the stock wheels are lighter of all the others by far , I have not used the R1 wheel.

 

R1 wheels work for the front. I know the 2001's are a "no mod" swap for the warrior. Most sportbike rears use a "cush" drive, while the warrior pulley is a "hard" mount to the rim. You would have to figure out a reliable way to hard mount the pulley to the rim because the cush drive and belt would probably cause a lot of slop in the drive line (just a guess.) Your other option would be to convert to chain drive on the warrior. Then all you have to worry about is correct spacing on the rear wheel, and the front sprocket off set. Either way you have to consider axle size, and brake location. I'm researching this idea myself.

 

Dontcare you'd better look again the pully is a cush mount on the warrior.

 

Stock wheels are 30 lbs. combined weight.

 

(in my admittedly poor gary coleman impersonation) What you talkin' bout bigjim? I guess it's possible that your rear wheel is different from mine.... According to the terminology wheel makers use, a cush drive is a method by which the sprocket (or Pulley) is mounted to a carrier which has drive pins inserted into hard rubber isolators in the wheel. The whole assembley is held onto the wheel by a snap ring or another similar method. The warrior pulley (mine anyway) bolts directly to the rear wheel. The rubber belt on the warrior absorbs the driveline shock, negating the need for isolators in the wheel. If you have something different, please educate me with pictures. I would be interested in that set-up.

 

Doh!
I was afraid that there would be a bunch of work involved in conversion of the rear.

It's good to see that at least the front rim can be swapped out with aftermarket R1 rims. You can get 4 lbs magnesium rims for the front then.

I was hoping to get the 7 lbs mag rims for the rear too, but that might be too much work.
I wonder how it would ride with a super light front tire and the stock rear. It would look stupid due to the mismatching until I could figure out the rear...

 

if the stockers are 30 lbs, I'm sure we can cut that weight down by at least half.

 

The Warrior pulley is not fixed to the wheel. I was carrying mine by the pulley once and had the wheel separate from the pulley and the isolators fell out. It must have been pretty comical to see me chasing the rubber isolators around the parking lot of the dealership!

 

Hey mod, if that's the case you have an extremely hazardous situation. Your retaining device is broken or missing. I had a retaining ring break on an old honda at 80 mph. The carrier wedged on the swingarm and locked everything up. The tire was flatspotted to cords, and the shaft that carried the front sprocket broke. Someone show me a pic of this warrior cush drive.

 

Billy , between the pulley and the hub.
There are cushion type rubbers 6-8 I think.
Not sure exactly their purpose other than to such up vibration.

Kyle

 

quote:Originally posted by dontcare1357

Hey mod, if that's the case you have an extremely hazardous situation. Your retaining device is broken or missing.

I believe there's an exploded view of it in the manual. I've put about 2500 miles on the bike since that happened, including the trip to Deals Gap. Everything is fine. The pulley is bolted to the pulley carrier which is part of the cush drive system and not fixed to any part of the wheel. The carrier has vanes(for lack of a better term). The wheel has wedge shaped cavities. The wedge shaped isolators fit inside the cavities in the wheel. The isolators are split down the middle in order to accept the "vanes" of the pulley carrier.

Maybe yours got fused together as your bike was pretending to be an asphalt surfboard. [/emoticons/emotion-2.gif]

 

dontcare1357, my two Warriors definitely have a cush drive.

I have replaced a total of four tires and the drive pully pulls right off the rim without having to unbolt anything. If you take your rear tire off, just pull up on the drive pully and it'll seperate from the rim. Those bolts you see on the pully don't hold it to the rim, they hold onto the rubber cushion.

 

So, since the Warrior apparently has a cush drive, does this make r1 rear rims direct bolt-ons, or are the cush drives different from one another? Are they the same number and spacings to the rubber cushions? Will the pulley fit in place of the rear sprocket of the R1 rim?

 

You guys are getting me all excited, but we're skirting around the main questions...

 

This is the R1

Image Insert:

This is the warrior

Image Insert:

Hope that helps?

 

Image Insert:

 

looks like you got it Daimon1054.... picture weren't originally working. Was trying to help. [/emoticons/emotion-5.gif]

 

LOL yeah for some reason it did not like the link???

 

Any body notice that the wheels that everybody's so keen on swapping out are practicaly identical in construction. The Warriors wheels are pretty light. By cruiser standards incredibly light.

 

Wow!
Thanks guys! Those are great diagrams. I assume those are from the repair manual...

Phew!
I had no idea there were so many pieces. It does look like the rims themselves are similar if not identical in the hub area. It looks like just the inserts are different.

We may be able to just pull apart an R1 rear wheel and use Warrior inserts.

 

I wouldn't be interested in using stock R1 wheels. I'm interested in using aftermarket rims that are half to 1/3 the weight. The next thing to determine would be if the aftermarket rims are beefy enough to use on the Warrior.

 

i dont understand this, what are you to gain by saving even half the weight? if you save 15lbs... what do you gain that you could notice? i mean, i understand reducing the rotating mass, but is all that really going to be worth anyhting?

 

There are several threads pertaining to wheel mass. This is the first one that talks about lightening the stock wheel as opposed to the side-effects of ADDING mass to the wheels with things like the 250 rear wheel kits. I seen posts that say that you lose 15-20 horsepower from the added weight of going to the 250 rear wheel.

The theory is this:
If adding 15lbs to a 620lbs bike loses 15hp, wouldn't you gain double-digit hp(maybe 10 to 15) by losing 15lbs from the same 620lbs bike? I'm sure it's not a linear progression. Actually, you might gain more than 15hp from losing 15lbs of rotational mass at an 8.5" radius.

What else is there that you can do to this bike that would give you 15hp? Granted, magnesium rims would probably cost about $2k for a pair, but you also get the benefit of aesthetics.

 

huh, well that answers it for me. i'd like to see someone show me the dyno sheets on that. very interesting. i just figured it was a "make the bike lighter" thing. yeah, i mean how much was spent on air intake, pipes, and a PCiii! if similar money could be spent,.... huh. someone do it and get a before and after dyno. i'll pitch in on dyno time.