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Discussion Starter #1
It took me a while to get the bike running well(new injectors did the trick). I got it warmed up, pulled in the clutch, put it in gear and it turns off.Flat. Doesn't stall but turns off. Typically I would assume the kickstand switch . I tested it AT the switch, I definitely did it the dumb way which I realized after. I by-passed that switch,cut the wires to do so and shorted them together since I wasn't sure if this switch was normally open or closed. The clutch switch is functioning, bike won't even start with it disconnected.

SO is it definitely the kickstand switch? or is there some other safey/nanny I'm missing. My brother suggested it could be a relay.

Thoughts?
 

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It took me a while to get the bike running well(new injectors did the trick). I got it warmed up, pulled in the clutch, put it in gear and it turns off.Flat. Doesn't stall but turns off. Typically I would assume the kickstand switch . I tested it AT the switch, I definitely did it the dumb way which I realized after. I by-passed that switch,cut the wires to do so and shorted them together since I wasn't sure if this switch was normally open or closed. The clutch switch is functioning, bike won't even start with it disconnected.

SO is it definitely the kickstand switch? or is there some other safey/nanny I'm missing. My brother suggested it could be a relay.

Thoughts?
there is a lean switch?
 

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Does the engine stop when shifting from neutral? I would check the side stand sensor (done) and the clutch lever switch (3YX-82917-01-00).
 

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Harpkatt … based on your OP I would suggest you check the Sidestand 2-Pin Blue Hitachi connector in the Wire Tray over Battery as shown below. If this is disconnected or compromised then that's the issue! If you want to jumper/defeat this device, for testing, then this is where it should be done. You'll jumper the main harness side that is Gold Banded for tracing.
Additional photos Here: Wire Tray over Battery
My two cents follows: This is not a LAS (lean angle sensor) or Clutch Lever Interlock Switch Issue so don't go down that road.
  • Does the Neutral Light work properly?
  • Are there any Fault Codes in the Tach?
 

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^^^
I'm assuming that the motor starts up normally with the bike on sidestand and in neutral!
With the sidestand UP and clutch lever engaged the motor cuts-out as soon as you drop it into gear ;)
If that's NOT the case then I'll revisit and comment.
 

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Could also be clutch plates stuck together.
With the bike off and in gear, can you push the bike with the clutch in?
Alternatively, put the bike on a jack and start it, put it in gear. The rear tire will spin even with the clutch pulled. To break it loose get the rear wheel spinning on the jack and then hit the rear brake.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Bike starts normally on the side stand and in neutral. Turns of when put in 1st. I would bet it's not the clutches being stuck-it does not lunge forward.
I will look at the connector itself.

Harpkatt
 

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Bike starts normally on the side stand and in neutral. Turns of when put in 1st. I would bet it's not the clutches being stuck-it does not lunge forward.
I will look at the connector itself.

Harpkatt
Sidestand UP … Correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Absolutely with the side stand up. But as I mentioned I tested this with the wires shorted together as well as open. I did not test it far enough along the circuit apparently. I will have too look at it again when the weather clears.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I just jumped the connector. I was not sure which side needed to be connected, so I did both. No change though. Still dies when put into gear.
IMG_20200324_161954.jpg
 

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As stated above #6: "If you want to jumper/defeat this device, for testing, then this is where it should be done. You'll jumper the main harness side that is Gold Banded for tracing."
The Upper Connector in photo has Gold banding and is the main harness. If you're confident that the jumper is properly contacting both conductors you'll need to move on.

As stated above #6: second bullet point
  • Are there any Fault Codes in the Tach?
Also, did you at any time accidentally apply positive polarity to the sidestand switch or clutch switch or blow any fuses?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
My entire HUD/dash/ gauge cluster whatever you call it currently isn't getting power. So I don't know about fault codes. After I got it running the next step was the cluster. But then this problem popped up.

Last year it was functioning, but lost back lighting. This year nothing.

It's all my fault for not getting to it last year like I hoped-but my entire summer was forced Overtime. Take it when you can get it I suppose.
 

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Your symptom indicates that the Ground Loop is open to the Sidestand Switch which will kill the motor when you drop out of Neutral.
I suspect that Diode D6 has shorted out as OPEN circuit or the Tracing is burnt as Indicated in photo.
You'll want to review the Blue/Green (L/G) wire and validate that it's not compromised on the Relay Unit plug or connector, etcetera.
There is a corrected procedure to test the Diode circuit in my signature for the Late Relay Unit on your ride. You'll need to download the pdf file.
  • PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK
    • If you want to circumvent this failure for testing ONLY you can jumper Blue/Yellow (L/Y) wire to 12vdc Ground.
 
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