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Stalling Problem with Cold Engine

2.9K views 28 replies 23 participants last post by  MMFB  
#1 ·
Looking for a little help from the experts. When my engine is cold (1st mile or two after starting), my bike wants to stall when I pull in the clutch. If I catch it in time and give the throttle a blip, it's fine and won't try to stall again.

I've tried adjusting the idle speed up, but that didn't help and then my idle was too fast once the bike was warm. I have a PCIII with a custom map. I had the problem before I got the bike dynoed and hoped the custom map would cure the problem, but that didn't help either.

I can't tell if it's an electronic problem or if I'm sucking air or if it's something else. Any suggestions?
 
#5 ·
My bike has never stalled when cold and my idle is at 800rpms. I wouldn't recommend going any lower than 800rpms, due to lubricaiton issues for the engine at idle.

If your bike is stalling, something isn't right...you should figure it out before it becomes a real problem...I do NOT think it is normal at all.

It is a commonly reported problem on this forum for people to have their idle set too low, or their clutch cable out of adjustment...but I would not say that it is common to have the bike stall when cold.

Chris.
 
#12 ·
Thanks for the input fellas. I'm gonna weigh in and say this isn't normal. My bike has about 7500 miles on it and this started in the last 1000 miles or so.

I'll check the vacuum lines, clutch cable and throttle body sync and let you know if any of this helps.

Thanks again.
 
#13 ·
Same hear , I jsut start it before I but my gear on and it helps, I think condrons might be onto something to becuse I was probably 2 finger clutching it the time it did it, and I can feel I need a touch taken up on the free play. check the free play and just let her warm up another minute shold do it, and do what Dice said - I know my neighbors appreciate it[/emoticons/emotion-2.gif]
 
#14 ·
I know you said you adjusted your idle, but you never said what it was set at. I keep mine between 900 and 1100. 800 to 900 is borderline to low. The Warrior will actually start throwing up error codes if set to low for to long.

What's your start up routine? How long do you let it run? The Warrior doesn't need all that long of a warmup. But even after 4 years and 20k miles, mine will stall if I run it less than a minute, then get on it and come to a stop before it has warmed up.
 
#16 ·
Sangathor....

I just double checked the Yamaha Service Manual for the Warrior and the proper idle speed is listed as 850-950RPM.

I'm not calling your wisdom into question...but I am curious to know why you believe that the 800-900 range is too low?

The Service manual also specifies 110ft*lbs for the pulley nut...so we know to take some things with a grain of salt...lol...

Best Regards.

Chris.
 
#17 ·
quote:Originally posted by parabellum

Sangathor....

I just double checked the Yamaha Service Manual for the Warrior and the proper idle speed is listed as 850-950RPM.

I'm not calling your wisdom into question...but I am curious to know why you believe that the 800-900 range is too low?


Yeah, I know what the service manual says. It also tells you to drain your oil from the wrong place. And to ride like an old lady when you're breaking it in. And we all know that's wrong. [/emoticons/emotion-1.gif]

I'm just telling you what I know from my experience how my warrior runs best and from what I've read on this forum over the last 4 years. When I set mine below 900 I get stuttering and stalling issues that don't happen at a higher idle. Play around with it and find your own setting for your own bike. Keeping in mind that to low of an idle will cause your bike to give an Error code 37. See archived post here: http://www.rswarrior.com/forums/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=1927&SearchTerms=idle,low,error,code
 
#19 ·
"It also tells you to drain your oil from the wrong place. And to ride like an old lady when you're breaking it in."

ROTF...LOL....

That almost made soda come out of my nose....

Thanks for the info...I will bump up my idle as soon as I get home after work, just to be on the safe side. I certainly don't want to have any lube issues with my engine! (or see that annoying code 37).

Again, thanks for the link and info.

Chris.
 
#20 ·
This happens when you pull in the clutch. What else is going on just prior to and at that time? e.g. "sitting at idle with bike in neutral"; "coasting to a stop w/bike in gear"; "snapped throttle shut and pulled in the clutch coming to corner"... that kind of thing. The ECU is trying to fuel and time the spark based on a bunch of sensors. It adds fuel for a cold engine and for starting. Maybe the temp sensor is malfunctioning at cold temperatures. The shop manual describes how to test it. Good Luck,
 
#24 ·
quote:Originally posted by bucky685

Mine does that too when its cold, but runs normal when it is warm.. From what i have gathered from this 4m it is quite normal for it to stall when cold...So i don't think there is anything to worry about. Just wait till its warm.

Yep, me too.
It does do this worse after the AIS removal. My idle is roughfly 900rpm warm. I just give it a tiny amount of throttle when costing to a stop (when cold).
I like the way the bike shakes at this idle speed.
 
#26 ·
This is great... signed on to check out this exact issue.
Mine's a week old 06 Midnight with about 450 miles on it. And 3 times now it's stalled. And every time it's been cold with little warm up time and I was just down the block comming to a stop as I pulled the clutch in with it in gear coasting to a stop. Starts, no problem and runs great after that. If I give it a little time... witch I'll do as a matter of Habit now, She's fine.