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Here is how I smoked my battery today. DO NOT repeat the same in your garage as it may cause fire 🔥 .

A while ago I purchased a Shorai pre-owned Lithium battery that I planned to replaced my old heavy battery with and I needed more room under the seat. Later I found out that Shorai batteries aren’t user friendly and really suck because of the hassles that they give later down the road while you start using them. They require either to be constantly on the tender or have to be connected to a charging device which again has to be a Shorai particular charger for storing them (in case if you don't plan to use your bike for some time).

The bike has been sitting for quite a while before today, and YESTERDAY I took it for a spin making sure that everything was in tact and the battery was good enough for starting the bike and I noticed that the battery was pretty weak. I’ve read though that sometime lithium battery may require a bit of time to kind of warm up, so it can be still hooked up to a bike and a small light would be sufficient for it to kind of regenerate the energy. So, I kept the key turned on and let it sit for a bit. Tried to give it a shot few more times. It spined very slowly like the battery was way too weak and after few more failures the bike eventually started. So I rode it for a bit around the blocks and thought its all good for my trip on next day. I should have probably checked the voltage first but I didn't. Lesson learned.

TODAY I was going to ride the bike over to my friend house. So, I am getting ready to hit the road, pulling the bike out, turning the key ON, pressing the starter button and noticing that the battery is almost dead. The starter again is just barely spinning the engine. So, I thought I may need to leave the key in on position and repeat the same as yesterday letting it stay for a bit so that the battery can get some juice that would be enough for me to start the bike and get going. I let it sit for few min, then trying to start the bike again, few very slow half-dead rotations - and the bike isn't starting. Tachometer light turned off, N neutral light on Speedo turned OFF as well. But I am not giving up cause I gotta go. I let it sit for a few more minutes, then tried it again, and here is what happened. The starter starts slowly spinning the engine about with the same speed as earlier, but the bike doesn't start. It was like 1 spin, then pause, then spin again then pause. I released the starter button - it keeps spinning the same way. Turned off the key - it keeps spinning, turned the kill switch to OFF position - it keeps spinning very slow like it is about to die. I start getting an idea that something is up, and I gotta check what under the seat is and unplug the battery ASAP in order for me to prevent the worst. I quickly opened the seat lock, removed the seat and seeing that my Lithium Shorai battery smokes like **** 👿. Smokes come from it, acid stars dripping from it into the plastic bucket where the battery sits. I started blowing on it making sure there is no fire, quickly took a screw driver and unscrewed 2 wires...Well, this wasn't a good sign on the Easter day. But I am not ready to give up 😄.

Since I had still the old battery that I just recently charged, I decided I would just put the old one and call it a day and will keep going. I got the battery hooked up, inserted the key and turned it to ON position, cranked it up and - the starter spins the engine faster than Shorai but it still doesn't seem right as it keeps spinning spinning over and over again. I immediately turned the kill switch to OFF - it keeps spinning, turned the key to OFF - no difference ,the bike keeps spinning while the tachometer is OFF and no light on speedo, no ODO reading - nothing. ZERO. But this time I was like ready for the worst and didn’t put the seat on. And without any longer delay I decided to unscrew the battery bolts before I ruined the second battery.

I tried to think logically what could have happened with the bike and I think that this was a starter relay. Possibly that in the first case when I used the shorai battery- the relay probably got stock in on position and didn’t turn off because the battery was weak. That's why it kept spinning even while the key and kill switch and the started button - all were in OFF position. However, I didn't know that the key doesn't turn off the entire system. Electrical gurus please correct me if I am wrong as I am not good at it. The second battery didn't solve the issue as the relay continued to probably stay in ON position, that’s why it kept spinning second time again.

Now I plan to check the starter relay, to replace it with a new one and to try to crank it up again. Hope that there won’t be any surprises.

Here it is - the Dead Shorai battery..
IMG_3321.jpg IMG_3323.jpg IMG_3322.jpg
 

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That suxx, man. Prepared having a nice bike trip ahead and that f....... battery does not work. I hate those situations :devilish: ... hope this will work out well for you. Please keep sharing.

My warrior still sitting with bad battery, not starting currently 🥺 need to start with car battery, but cable clamps are too massive to get it connected to bike battery connections.
Will try to use ground connection to frame/motor, and just connect the red one to battery directly. A bit hesitant not to kill electronics. 🤔☠ somebody ever used a powerbank/jumpstarter ?
 

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@FlySpur, the Shorai lithium battery isn't the root of the trouble, you seem to have gotten bad info from somewhere.

When turned the key to 'on' and left sit for many minutes it drained the battery. Just like any car or bike with any battery.

One difference between lead-acid batteries and lithium batteries of any brand is that lithium likes warmth more than cold. So on REALLY COLD DAYS it may not want to start on the first crank. But it always starts on the second try. So what I do is treat it like any battery. I press the start button and if it rolls-over but does not start then I let-go of the button then press again and every time it starts right away. On normal temperature days it always starts first bump. The odd behavior only occurs when it's near freezing and the bike has not been started recently.

Two bumps to start uses no voltage. Letting the bike sit for many minutes with the key 'on' drains any battery.

Battery voltage is key. When voltage is higher, amperage is lower. So when any battery voltage gets lower and you turn the key 'on' and leave it sit, the voltage keeps getting even lower. When you press the start button and complete the circuit, and the battery voltage is really low, that causes amperage to be really high. Its that high amperage that melts wire insulation and cooks relays. Especially it cooks cheap low quality starter relays and it also cooks the starter windings which can lead to starter magnets coming loose over time.

If you have a lithium battery, and if it's electrical specs meet or exceed Warrior stock battery specs, you're good. But if you get a lithium battery that is a little more powerful than stock specs, it's astounding how fast this bike starts. And because voltage is high, amperage is low (no chance of damage to relays or wires).

As with ANY battery, you need a floater- charger for maintaining the correct voltage levels. Most every lithium battery out there is built the same way as old fashioned lead-acid batteries. You connect the charger. It charges until one cell reaches 100% voltage. Then it goes into stand-by mode. But the other cells are less than 100%. The charger stopped charging to avoid cooking-off the cell that reached 100%. This is why batteries 'wear out' over time and we just shrug and accept it.

Only Shorai has reinvented the circuits inside the battery. And they reinvented the charger to support the modern technology. Their battery internals serve each cell independently and their charger supports that. So their charger charges each cell individually to 100%. Then it puts each cell independently into stand-by mode. This means every cell is always 100%. There are currently NO OTHER BATTERY SYSTEMS capable of this.

If you use a regular charger on your Shorai battery then it stops charging when the first cell reaches 100%. If you use the Shorai charger on your Shorai battery then every cell reaches 100% . The Shorai battery has internal circuits to do it, plus the charger plug has several prongs in order to support all cells independently. That costs more and its worth every penny.

So with all that in mind, buy the Yamaha factory starter relay made for the Warrior. Repair any wires and heal any burned connections too. Get a Shorai battery AND CHARGER and use it often, especially if not intending to ride for a few weeks and also especially in cold weather. The battery will already be plenty warm when you start it.

In the middle of all this: if you suspect your decompression solenoid is bad, a fully charged Shorai will still start the bike with zero trouble but its still smart to fix the decompression solenoid.

The bike's charging system does not charge cells independently like the Shorai charger does. But its good enough. I use the charger mostly in the off season. It equalizes the cells no problem.

If you have installed accessories that create additional parasitic drain on the battery then consider putting them on a relay so at key-off there is no drain beyond factory original.

If you have removed certain incandescent bulbs (for example: going to LED) then do a few days worth of research-reading here about COD , click of death, and install a long term solution.

Any condition that causes significantly low starter battery voltage on any vehicle with any kind of battery is going to pump significantly higher amperage through your wires and relays.

Any charger (except Shorai) is going to stop charging when the first cell reaches 100% because if it does not stop charging it will cook the 100% cells while waiting for the last cell to reach 100%. Oops.

Any charger with only the normal two connecting wires (to POS and NEG) cannot charge all cells independently to 100%.

The Warrior's headlight is on a relay so it waits to illumunate until the motor is running. That leaves juice to turn over the big cube beast. Plus the decompression solenoid and nikisil cylinder lining make starting easier. All that technology. My Shorai system is right at home.

My Battery:
Shorai LFX18A1-BS12 (March 2014) and Shorai SHO-BMS01 Charger. It's a bit more powerful than the stock Warrior battery.

Sorry this is so long. There are lots of things happening that may have contributed to what happened to you. But is was not because you have a Shorai battery. 👌 I realize you bought it used, but the Shorai charger is often capable of reviving.
 

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That suxx, man. Prepared having a nice bike trip ahead and that f....... battery does not work. I hate those situations :devilish: ... hope this will work out well for you. Please keep sharing.

My warrior still sitting with bad battery, not starting currently 🥺 need to start with car battery, but cable clamps are too massive to get it connected to bike battery connections.
Will try to use ground connection to frame/motor, and just connect the red one to battery directly. A bit hesitant not to kill electronics. 🤔☠ somebody ever used a powerbank/jumpstarter ?
Any source that does not exceed about ~13.8 volts is fine. Minimum voltage is about ~12v to avoid pesky amperage troubles. Powerbank connections need to connect without touching surrounding items. If jump starting from another vehicle, NEVER start the other vehicle while connected to Warrior battery (if more juice is needed then disconnect both cables, start the other vehicle, let it warm-idle then reconnect to Warrior). And you are right to always connect NEG to ground lug NEVER TO BATTERY. Connect POS first and remove last. Connect NEG last and remove first and remove it right when the Warrior motor starts and stabilizes (maybe 5 seconds).
 

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No issues at all Thommy :). And thanks for the detailed write up, AZ.

Let me start off by saying that the battery that I purchased wasn't in 10 out of 10 condition as it was a pre-owned one. Previous owner sold it as is cause he had continuous challenges (as lot of other folks that I happened to read about on internet after I got the battery) while charging it and hasn't used it for some time. So, at the time when it arrived, it took me quite an effort to reanimate it. I tried using the Shorai charger first that it came with, but the charger wasn't charging it at all. Both lights were blinking as it was signaling that the battery was dead. Then I also tried connecting it for a 3-5 short min to a regular tender, letting it get some juice. Cause it was showing very few volts only. I dont recall the exact number but it was below 5V. Then eventually after about 5 more rounds of trying to charge it with Shorai charger and then switching it for a few min to a regular tender, the Shorai charger did recognize the battery and charged it. Voltage at the end of the charge was showing about 12.7V if I recall it correctly. I had no issues while starting the bike.

Later I noticed after using it for some time, that usually after 3 weeks of having the bike sitting without riding it, the battery won't turn the bike at all or would do it very very slow. And It wasn't because of the cold weather though. I thought of more from inactivity. Every time I had to connect it again to Shorai charger which again would start first acting weird as the battery is dead, having 2 lights blinking one after another. But then it would switch to a normal charging mode after about 3-5 min of blinking and refusing to charge it. Every time if I knew that I needed to go for a ride - I usually charged it a day before. And it was working just fine.

This weekend though I tried of squeezing the remaining juice out of it hoping that it should at least be enough to spin the engine and to successfully start it. Obviously I was wrong. The bike wasn't sitting for too long with switched being 'on'. It was like no more than 1-2 min. Even while having the key turned on and all switched to be on - I had no other sources on the bike that would eat up all the energy from the battery and drastically discharging it. That wasn't quite like that. Moreover, I knew that I rode the bike for a bit a day ago. There shouldn't have been any issues starting Warrior on next day.

I have already looked up on i bay and saw similar relays available for sale. Some of them cost more than the other. I may just check first the one that I have on the bike now. May be it is still alive. So, then no need to buy anything yet. Otherwise will try to order one.
 

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@Thommy_STC

I'm still worried for you about the ebay relay. I see it dozens of times a year: the relay somebody buys on eBay and similar places appears right but its wrong or the quality and quantity of the metal is bad. I've seen relays with the right primary part number be circuited differently. I've seen relays with thin copper that chokes the electricity at start-up, causing starter heat damage. I once saw a relay with aluminum circuit connections (which also had incorrect curcuitry) so it was wrong on several levels.

There are a few electrical parts that are best bought from a known Yamaha dealer and this is one of them.

When you compare these, pretty much EVERY marking needs to match the original stock relay. So you likely can't match it to the info on an aftermarket relay installed prior. Plus the position of the circuit metal needs to match.

Especially the battery power cable needs to be on the correct side but also the other electrical connection terminals need to be circuited to match stock so power is routed right.

But even if it is, if there is inadequate or poorly made metal inside, it's going to fail (and as it progressively fails your starter internals will be subjected to higher heat caused by higher amperage due to lower voltage getting thru).

This little part has a lot of responsibilities and it's worth getting an actual Yamaha provided part. I know there are Yamaha dealers in your country. Maybe the last winter snow gives you a chance to get one? It's worth the extra.

On top of that, the battery needs to have good voltage every time to press the go button. If it does not, then a marginal starter relay will be subjected to higher amperage and progressive heat damage. That's electricity for you lol.
 

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Hi AZ, many thanks for explanations and expert advise. Probably that was meant to go to FlySpur, instead of me. I just highjacked his thread :p nevertheless useful info. Thanks again.

As the bike started properly before winter, I trust it is low battery load (more hope).
Too lazy to disassamble the battery and now I got punished, lesson learned.
As soon as the weather allows working on the bike, I try to jumpstart via car. Keep you in the loop.
 

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Hi AZ, many thanks for explanations and expert advise. Probably that was meant to go to FlySpur, instead of me. I just highjacked his thread :p nevertheless useful info. Thanks again.

As the bike started properly before winter, I trust it is low battery load (more hope).
Too lazy to disassamble the battery and now I got punished, lesson learned.
As soon as the weather allows working on the bike, I try to jumpstart via car. Keep you in the loop.
Just don't have your car running when you jump it. Our bikes weren't meant to take the output of an automotive alternator.
 

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I realized that the relay shouldn't cost that low (price on e bay was less than $10) and that I may end up getting what I paid for. And also because of learning it the hard way 😄 - I've ordered the OEM relay from 02 Warrior which is exactly as mine. It should arrive soon
 
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