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Discussion Starter #1
so i purchased my bike last summer,and the dealerput a new battery in when i went out the door,over the summer it seemed like it cranked over weakly every once in a while,normally on first start up of the day,i took it out and put it on a charger a couple of times and put it back in,helped a little,i just installed a new AIS block off and went to go start it,one or two turns over and then the buzzing/clicking,so i got the jumpers out and hooked them up,started cranking but wouldn't start,one of the cables fell off,and then it make a humming noise coming by the relay im guessing,so i hooked it back up and it did it again,in my panic i redid it and it cranked over great and then started,is my battery shot or is it something else?
 

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I destroyed my battery. One cold morning my bike almost started on the first and second crank. After a few more tries my battery was drained. If I would have been smart, i could have left in my car while the my battery charged on the battery tender. Instead, I jump started it with my quick charger. The bike started the rest of the day but the next weekend, after leaving it on the battery tender all week, I had to jump it off again. Then I stopped and it left me stranded at the convenience store.


I had it tested and bought a new one. While I was researching batteries I read and heard that I did everything wrong. Never quick charge and avoid jumps.


I missed two great weekends of riding and now the rain is coming and the temp is dropping. Hopefuly the weatherman is right about Sunday, clear and 57F.


Have your battery tested with a meter that simulates a load, it may not be too late for you.
 

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So the battery was new when you got your bike just 7 or 8 months ago and you had some problems almost from the start? I can understand if you let the battery drain for some reason and then jumped it and ruined it or something else but it sounds like you might have something elsegoing on that ruined that perfectly good new battery. Did it have aftermarket lighting or some other mod that would affect it's electrical when you bought it? Do you have HC pistons which can cause the stock battery to struggle? AZ wasn't there even info to show that the chrome 102 cover and the (supposedly mandatory) matching chrome solonoid cover caused electrical issues? Do you have those Tausch? The stock battery is way weak compared to the SVR14 but a brand new one (or even one a few years old) shouldn't be having difficulties giving you a start and especially not to the point where you have to keep charging it unless something is fouled up. When the dealer gave you the new battery it was already charged right, you didn't jump it back then did you? You might want to look into it before you spend the money on a SVR14 only to have similar issues creep in.
 

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Check all your connections, make sure they are tight and not corroded. Also invest in a good battery tender.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
from what i hear it sounds like i did everything wrong.....no i feel dumb,no aux lighting on my bike(yet),it sounds like i messed my perfectly good battery up,thanks for the info guys,wasnt fully charged fromt he start,quick charged it,jumped it a couple times
 

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Tausch ... my .02 follows ....after reviewing your gallery inventory, assuming it's up-todate,noting that you're running the stock frt & rear turn signals less the license plate light and have the OEM decomp and cam covers simplifies the trouble shooting process.


Some of the aforementioned mods mentionedby Marco Polo,can havechronic problems that contribute to what might appear to be a bad battery but isn't.


Becausethe weak battery has been preexisting since day one, i would agree with Marcoand not replace itat this time.I would check all relevant connections and devices that would contribute to this problem as stated by Dice.

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A typical symptom of the battery going bad is the trip odometer resetting to zero![/list]


My tools of choice for this challengewould be a Digital volt ohm meter ($10.00-$15.00) and Battery Tender Jr ($30.00)) at a minimum.


Charge the battery completelyoff the bike and when done check the output voltage.Awell charged AGM battery will yield > 12.7vdc ... my OEM GS battery (> 60 months old)puts out 12.84vdc when fully charged with no other connections today!

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Alternatively, take the battery to a reliable shop and have it load tested after being fully charged.
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While the battery is off the bike you'll want to do your due diligence in making a proper inspection of allthe high current carrying cables and terminating connectors to the Starter Relay (Item7http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/1/1/1673654/Warrior/Warrior%20Schematic.pdf)as this could cause your problem. Remove and inspectspade connectors.
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Thoroughly inspect the starter motor connector under the rubber boot for tightness and validate the mechanical crimped connection as well as the battery positive and negative cables.[/list]


midnight_run - Faulty Starter Relay symptoms and fix w/ part no. http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/122342/979530.aspx#979530


Churchkey - Bike Dies when i pull the battery cable.http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/118726/957003.aspx#957003

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3rd paragraph: Bike Dies when i pull the battery cable

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Quick visual check. stand in front of the bike with the engine running & look at the head light. Reach over & shut the bike off with the kill switch while watching the head light. If the head light gets dimmer when the engine shuts off the charging system is functuning. If it gets slightly brighter the charging system is not functuning. [/list][/list]
 

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Discussion Starter #8
yeah i had LED front turn signals but they were cheap and didn't work so i pulled them off,the rear turn signals have the LED inserts in them,other then that the lighting is stoc,i checked the connections and they look clean,i think from the not being charged intially,and quick charging it and the jumping of it,i think i fried my battery,which sucks,but why would a dealer try and sell a bike with a dead battery and then give you a battery that isn't even fully charged(dumb)
 
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