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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is, IMO, a must read for those of you that are planning to R&R your switch box housings with chrome or polished parts.

The fatality rate of the Kill Switch (engine cut-off switch) is quite high on this site and is self-inflicted by the installer. Reading this topic will assure a successful install!

AlanH said:
Sat, Apr 7 2007 11:45 PM
Killswitch prob after control swap
I'm sorry to say that the kill switch is only available as an assembly with the right switch housing and harness, etc


SuicideD_45.... this might be of interest

Subject: Stripped Screw
Sent to: RaySDF250 - 04/01/2007 : 7:58:42 PM
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Ray....just something that might help you out and maybe it wont.

The switch housings (SWH) as well as the riser clamps have a tightening procedure that i have read and adhere to while working on bikes.

When the SWH is assembled on the bar the top screw is tightened 1st so there is no gap (tight joint) and the bottom screw is tightened last where there remains a slight gap and leverage to the top screw.

To remove the procedure is to loosen the bottom 1st.....if not the top screw is under a tremendous load from the leverage created by the bottom screw and $hit happens.

The front stock split riser clamp screws are tightened 1st to eliminate gap and the rears second which creates leverage and tremendous clamping force to the bars

I just polished a set of housings & clutch perch yesterday and replaced the left side only last night.

The wiring is a PITA. Be very careful with the rocker switches (Kill Switch & Hi-Lo) when reassembling into the switch housings. They have a small plastic protruding pin as part of the rocker that must be compressed to fit properly in the housing bores keeping the switch contacts compressed, else it's possible to break or damage the switch.

This is something that should be posted but hasn't yet.
Anyway, just a heads up.
Regards
Alan
rphazen said:
Headlight dimmer switch fix(Headlight not working)

When installing the switch back in the housing make sure this plastic pin slides down the side of the aluminum boss as it helps holds the switch together and would be real easy to break the plastic pin off.

AlanH said:
rphazen.... excellent information & neat photos


As you stated, the round plastic pin you have highlighted in red can easily be broken when replacing both switch housings as the engine cut-off switch is constructed the same, except that it's a single pole w/2-wires. Without the plastic pin the electrical contacts will be real weak with possible intermittent problems such as engine cutting out!



 
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