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Discussion Starter #1
First week of racing. Thunder Valley Dragway (Marion, SD) is the only drag strip within 500 miles that opened this weekend (at least that's what I had heard). Lucky for me it's only a ½ hour drive away. My 60's weren't all that good but boy, my ETs were as consistent as I've ever been. I'm usually all over the place.

Time Trials
Reaction - 0.0322 red light!
60' 1.9012
ET 13.2574

Reaction - 0.0029 Red light again. But ****, that's close!
60' 1.8836
ET 13.2548

Reaction .1036 🙄 Not good, but at least not a red light.
60' 1.9161
ET 13.2586

Round 1 elimination
Dial in 13.25 ⬅ I mean, what else would I dial in?
Reaction .1622 🤢🤮
60' 1.8543
ET 13.2102 😲😡🤬
Breakout! - my day's over. 😒

Wow, now this is frustrating! I ran a Test & Tune and clocked a ET of 13.2535. WTAF! 🤬
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I realize the 60' and ET numbers tell a tale, the motor seems strong so to get out of the hole faster is there room to improve your launch rpm and tire traction?
I launch at about 4000-4500. But honestly, I wonder if I subconsciously chicken out and let off the throttle a little bit when I start the launch.

Early last season, I ruined my near-new back tire (Avon Storm 3D XM) and decided that since I'll be using my VTX1800 as my primary commute bike and the Warrior primarily for racing, I'd get a cheaper tire for the Warrior. So I went with a Shinko 003. A lot cheaper and gets better traction. This is when I ran my 12s. But I haven't been able to get back down into the 12s since that one weekend.

My best is as follows: Reaction .0067, 60' 1.8080, ET 12.7280. So yes, I know I can do better. I'd say my reaction time needs the most work.

Last season I installed a Schnitz dual Stage shift light, so I can concentrate on the tree better and be more consistent on shifting. I also bought a used Pingle electric shifter but couldn't get it to shift. The solenoid kicks the shaft but just barely. There just doesn't seem to be enough power to get it to kick into gear. I even sent it in to Pingle to have it rebuilt but nothing's changed. As much as I spent on buying it, installing it, and rebuilding it, I'd been better off getting something new.
 

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Do you have Ivan's flash? If not, you might standardize on 4500rpm and soft-engage then like a robot when you have half-way released let go the lever and get ready to shift again. Control your position in the saddle and control your feet in every action. And smile dammit. Its large fun, so look down-track and imagine your brain is reaching forward with joy!

Have you considered a Bridgestone g-Force Sport Comp2 225/45R17 on a spare rear wheel? A MC tire simply might not have adequate contact patch. You might be able to launch at 3krpm its a harder but flat tread so release the lever quickly but steady then go WOT right away. Upshifts maybe 4.5krpm. Be certain your final drive belt is tensioned and aligned within spec so when you hammer it there is minimum slack or the launch may quick-snap the slop.

Later you might go to a taller CT also having unidirectional tread and stiff sidewalls. If rules allow.

If you have Ivan's then you might experiment with a 5krpm launch if your rider seat shape will help you retain solid position.

This beast is very rideable as you know so smile and go!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Do you have Ivan's flash? If not, you might standardize on 4500rpm and soft-engage then like a robot when you have half-way released let go the lever and get ready to shift again. Control your position in the saddle and control your feet in every action. And smile dammit. Its large fun, so look down-track and imagine your brain is reaching forward with joy!

Have you considered a Bridgestone g-Force Sport Comp2 225/45R17 on a spare rear wheel? A street tire simply might not have adequate contact patch. You might be able to launch at 3krpm its a harder but flat tread so release the lever quickly but steady then go WOT right away. Upshifts maybe 45krpm. Be certain your final drive belt is tensioned and aligned within spec so when you hammer it there is minimum slack or the launch may quick-snap the slop.

Later you might go to a taller CT also having unidirectional tread and stiff sidewalls. If rules allow.

If you have Ivan's then you might experiment with a 5krpm launch if your rider seat shape will help you retain solid position.

This beast is very rideable as you know so smile and go!
Yup, I got Ivan's flash a few years ago. LOVE IT!!!

I'll take some of your suggestions into consideration.

Something I haven't tried is changing the tire pressure. I should do that next race weekend.
 

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Are you allowed to run a car tire?

And yeah your 60' was 1.80 last year so you have taken a lil hit since all you could muster was a 1.85 which on your final run caused you to break out. You gotta hit the track one day for test and tune and no worry about the light. Sit at the light till you are 100% even if it takes 5 seconds and work on that launch till you get super comfortable and worked out like if it was second nature.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
We can run a car tire but I won't. I still ride the Warrior on the the street on occasion and IMO, from what I've studied, going dark is not for me (I won't/don't begrudge anyone that does choose to go to the Dark Side, however). But on your other advice, yeah you're right, I do need to get out on a non-points day and work on it. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Second weekend of racing, May 17.

I got lucky a few times this past Sunday. My first competitor has raced before but not on a motorcycle. He caught up to me in the traps but before crossing the finish line, he backed off. I guess he thought he was going to break out. I stayed in it and was within my dial in, so I won the first round.
  • Dial in 12.90 vs 12.34
  • Reaction .3017 vs .1736
  • 60' 1.8754 vs 2.1612
  • ET 13.0409 vs 12.6385
  • MPH 99.49 vs 88.41
Next was the semi-final. I was up against a guy who's been racing for like 25 years. He has a 9 second Hayabusa powered drag bike. I usually get about a 3½ second head start against him and he still beats me. Sunday however, he was having trouble. I did my burnout like always but this weekend I decided to try doing it in second gear instead of first, to save stress on the the motor. I got up to the starting line, lights go down and when I took off, the bike dogged - big time! I forgot to shift back into first when I staged up! "Well," I thought, "run it out as best as you can." As I'm going down the strip, I kept waiting for him to pass me. I got into the traps, where he usually catches me, but I still didn't see him. And with my bad start, he should have passed me long before I got there. So I crossed the finish line and my win light comes on. I found out later that his coolant leaked out and his back tire rolled over it and wouldn't get any traction. So now I'm in the final round.
  • Dial in 12.95 vs 9.56
  • Reaction .2799 vs .0896
  • 60' 2.1821 vs 3.2525
  • ET 13.6903 vs 28.0788
  • MPH 99.10 vs 36.58
In the final, I'm going up against is riding a HD Sportster with high compression pistons. He runs in the high 11s so I'll get about a one second head start. We do our burn outs and yes, this time I remembered to shift back down to first gear. The yellow lights drop, and I go! About half way down the track I see his win light was already on. That means only one thing - I red lighted and the race was over before it began. So I just slowed down and took the first exit off the track. Looking at my time slip, I left .0098 of a second too soon - 9.8 milliseconds too early. The other guy on the Sportster cut an excellent light of .0064. BUT . . . he missed the first to second shift. Looking back, I should have run it out just to see how close it would have been. But still, I'm very happy I got past the first round, let alone make it to the final like that. So yeah, it was a good weekend.
  • Dial in 12.95 vs 11.80
  • Reaction -.0098 vs. .0064 ⬅EXCELLENT reaction by the HD. Good job 👍
  • 60' 1.7938 vs 1.8045
  • ET 15.8788 vs 12.5205
  • MPH 52.75 vs 110.32
Here's a link to the final race. https://youtu.be/Z77p8IobK6w
 
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