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Tips for Basic Technical Maintenance Tasks


The Warrior is a little different in several ways, making general maintenance a little different. BJInfidel had a good idea, to assemble in one place all the tips for general maintenance. It would not be hard, there isn't that much basic maintenance.


Maybe you will chime-in with suggestions on what maintenance tasks to include and maybe we can come up with the right pictures for each task,then assemble it all into one document. The service and owner manuals already cover the topics, so we're really only talking about member knowledge above and beyond, right? Or not?
 

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Here's a tip. If you can get the bike up on a motorcycle jack you don't need any special tools to remove the crankcase oil drain plug.
 

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True. And for those who don't have a jack handy just have a stubby 17mm open/box wrench handy, along with your 17mm socket wrench,and pull the two plugs from the floor. The first time you might have to tap it lightly with a hammer to break it loose.


Scoper50 said:
Here's a tip. If you can get the bike up on a motorcycle jack you don't need any special tools to remove the crankcase oil drain plug.
 

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Arizona Warrior said:
Tips for Basic Technical Maintenance Tasks


The Warrior is a little different in several ways, making general maintenance a little different. BJInfidel had a good idea, to assemble in one place all the tips for general maintenance. It would not be hard, there isn't that much basic maintenance.


Maybe you will chime-in with suggestions on what maintenance tasks to include and maybe we can come up with the right pictures for each task,then assemble it all into one document. The service and owner manuals already cover the topics, so we're really only talking about member knowledge above and beyond, right? Or not?

Great idea guys
...us newbies [yes i count myself one when it comes to engineering this baby]..this will be great..i'll refrain from jumping
..cause i knowmany guys have been on the tools long before before me...[ok so it's yet another long winded 'bump']
 

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If u replace your own tires with aftermarket exhaust and dont want to remove the exhaust, when u remove the rear wheel put the axle back in with nut on the right side. If u take it to a shop have them do it might save on labor.
 

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I use a standard 17mm 12 point combination craftsmen wrench, a 3/8" rachet with 17mm socket and short extention, and a good size channellox to remove the filter.I run up to the local Dollar General store and get a cooking tin to drain the oil in.
 

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When removing the rear tire, put a layer of masking tape on the rimin the area of the caliper to avoid scratching the rim.


When removing the front tire, put a block of wood between the throttle grip and the brake lever held in place by tape. this will prevent having the pistons popped out of the calipers by someone that just has to squeeze the brake lever. I also put enough layers of cardboard in the calipers to hold the pads in place. Never let the calipers hang by the hoses.
 

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Arizona Warrior said:
Maybe we need a framework. Let's start with oil.


Other than what is already posted here, does anyone have anymore tricks or tips above and beyond what is in the service manual for changing the oil, and for checking the oil level?

which reminds me MIke..i must check mine..haven't used the new way of warming.. idling.. stopping....staying astride thing yet...bye the way i wondered how the seat comes off when you stopped the engine and still need to keep her upright and then ...you've got to straddle the beast to keep her upright whilst having a cloth in one hand andya dipstick in the other [in full view!]...anyone know someone from Zippos Circus!!?...heck i'm doing tomorrow morning ..if you don't hear from me by tomorrow night i'm still trapped under the bike waving my dipper in the air!!!???
 

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Just a little TMI there:}:} Just take the seat off, straddle the bike and check the oil:}:} What you do with your little dipper is more than I can take:}:}





tomba said:
which reminds me MIke..i must check mine..haven't used the new way of warming.. idling.. stopping....staying astride thing yet...bye the way i wondered how the seat comes off when you stopped the engine and still need to keep her upright and then ...you've got to straddle the beast to keep her upright whilst having a cloth in one hand andya dipstick in the other [in full view!]...anyone know someone from Zippos Circus!!?...heck i'm doing tomorrow morning ..if you don't hear from me by tomorrow night i'm still trapped under the bike waving my dipper in the air!!!???
 

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a 2x4 under the kickstand (on level ground) will get the bike close enough to level that you can check it w/o straddling it. Making sure the bike has run sufficiently to circulate fully is the KEY! If you have oil on the crosshatching, your good. It doesn't need to be topped off. These dry sump systems move a lot of oil so just pay attention to how much you dump in and you'll go far.
 

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with the seat removed i put a torpedo level on the frame. I do this to make sure the oil level isdead on. most times I just eye ball the oil level
 

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Arkansas Warrior said:
. . . I run up to the local Dollar General store and get a cooking tin to drain the oil in.

I use an antifreeze jug, or some other jug with the same shape. From the side they look somewhat rectangular rather than round. I lay it on one side and cut out most of the other side. That gives me a container that is plenty deep enough to hold the oil. When it comes time to drain it into the empty quart bottles I just unscrew the cap and pour it out. It doesn't cost anything cuz I needed the antifreeze anyway, or whatever I happened to buy in the first place, its reusable, and fits easily under the bike without lifting it.
 

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Ok..i enjoyed that....Checking OIl level as per new Yami method...the 10 point plan



1.RIDE 15mins-Use gears alot tick tick tick


2. STOP 30 secs - Idle & No throttle use tick


3. Stand down - Remove seat tick


Here [cause i'm anal]4. Straddled bike -Get her upright tick [held between knees..careful not to burn leg]


5. Remove dipstick - unscrew and clean tick


6. Dip Dipstickfully - don't screwin! tick


7. Pull dipstick- read level- low!tick [cloth to catch drips helped]


Here [cause i'm anal] counted 17 edge bars between top and bottom of engraved area and mine was on bottom 1!


8. Fill Oil gently- rag round filler! ticklish


Note - head of 1 litre bottle, well over and almost past top edge of opening, before attempting to pour - as oil ran back down lip slightly before it headed south! poured in quart and it rose to 6 edge bars ...another quart rose to 12 to13 edge bars - as instructions say 'anywhere on engraving and it's good to go'..that was it - unstraddled bike each time i filled with oil, not really possible to control flow whilst stradding!


9. Replace dipstick - ensure scewed firmly closed tick


10. Replace seattickety boo



Iused Yamilube semi 10-40 [as that's what was in it already] soi used half a litre in 1000miles!now 8045 miles...is that ok?



it's not so bad.... waving ya dipper in the air in public
 

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LOL ..i'm many things.. but not hard of hearing....but I bet my dipper is as big as your dipper
...the trouble is now i've had it out, and no one screamed, i'm in the mood to whip it out a lot more often....
the straddling was good for me to!!
 
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