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Hi Guys,
Been Away For a While But Back Again Now. ( I Hibernate In Winter )
I Talked Fred ( Dyno Guru) Into Pump'n In Some More Boost.
Running 12psi Now, Still Pc5 ( No Timing Taken Out Etc ) & Took Her Out For a 8-900 km Shakedown Run a Couple of Weeks Ago With Heff & Hendo, Didn't Miss a Beat.
Looking To Go Down To The Aussie WWW Meet This Month, ( 1500 km ) But a Back Rest Is Mandatory !
I'm Sure My Arms Are Getting Longer.
Feel Free To Give Me Your Thoughts On The New Figures.
Cheers 10FT.:D
It's been a while for me as well. The HP looks great! Not sure what's up with the torque though, am I reading the graph wrong? My bike makes about 20 more torque than hp... Also, what fuel are you running? Stock timing, and running that lean, I hope you're running something better than what we have at the pump here in the states.

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It's been a while for me as well. The HP looks great! Not sure what's up with the torque though, am I reading the graph wrong? My bike makes about 20 more torque than hp... Also, what fuel are you running? Stock timing, and running that lean, I hope you're running something better than what we have at the pump here in the states.

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Now that I'm not half asleep, I see that I was looking at it wrong. Is the graph on the left before? Or lower boost or something?

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Hi Wicked,
Yeah, Sheet On The Left Is When I First Got The Bike. B4 & After, When I 1st had It Dynoed @ Freds. Pre Turbo Obviously.
Sheet On The Right Is Now Running 12 Psi, On BP 98 Octane.
Cheers For All Your Help & Advise With The Build Man. I'm Loving It !
 

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Thanks to this forum, my build is finally finished. Still getting the tune spot-on, but I thought I would post some helpful information I did not see elsewhere. Hopefully it will save anyone thinking about a turbo project a lot of headaches.

My setup is basically a TD04 running at about 13 PSI off the wastegate. No intercooler. I ran the cold side piping(2") in from the center of the front of the front cylinder, through a BOV, then an SS Y that I found and cut up, and used a 90 and I think a 135 silicone coupler to attach it to the TB's. Hot side is a 2" tubular manifold and 3" downpipe with O2 sensor that I fabbed up. Oil is taken from the left side top-end feed and drained into center of the stator cover. Here's what I can tell you, from a non-professional's perspective, I hope it helps someone.

Turbo size matters. I was going for quick spool, so I picked a TD04 that another member had used with a small A/R. The engine is only 1600ish CC's, and I did not want to have to wait until 3 or 4K for boost. I am very glad I made the choice I did, I can build boost from any RPM and it pulls straight to the rev limiter, very controllable.

Install a BOV or kick yourself later. I had to take one of the two springs out of mine to get it to work right. Watch videos to see what it is supposed to sound like when set up correctly. If you do not run one or have it set up right, you will kill the compressor speed every time you let off and shift, and it feels like crap. You may also damage your turbo according to some.

Don't worry about making a super-fancy high-flow perfect hot side, unless you are a great fabricator and welder. I have decent skills, but it's not really going to make that much of a difference since the turbo is a giant restriction anyways. If you want to use an external wastegate, cool, but it will again be a lot of fabbing and work. Do not use any kind of paint on the exhaust if you want it to be black or whatever color, have it professionally coated.

Do not waste your time with a PCV, unless you already have one, it works flawlessly, and you plan to run maybe 10 PSI. Get a Dynotek module so you can adjust timing, you will need it.

If you plan to use Autotune, do not think that you can just set up a halfway-decent map and let the AT do the rest, it does not work that way, even though it is supposed to. Ride(or use a dyno), datalog, set AT at maybe 5%, and look at the trim maps and manually add or remove fuel if you see a trend going on. Even N/A the Autotune does not work that well. I've had two PCV's and been around and around with DJ, who are now ignoring my e-mails. I have datalogs that turn into garbage, times when the PCV is adding or removing ridiculous fuel from one cylinder for a a minute(then it goes right back to normal), and all kinds of issues. Maybe I've had two bad ones, but it's been a headache. You will need more fuel than you think, and I would try to get your AFR near 11:1 before you start getting on it and tuning, unless you've already pulled some timing.

Just buy and install larger injectors if you plan to run decent boost. I used the 650CC units from 5.0 Motorsports and they work great. I'm at about 80% duty cycle max with them, the stock ones would be more than double that.

You do not have to worry about raising your fuel pressure, just add all of the fuel from the tables in your PCV. Your fuel pressure under boost will drop of course, but it doesn't matter, because the injector is held open longer.

Use a 2 bar MAP sensor if under 15 PSI, and I would recommend setting up your tables for 2 PSI increments if you are trying to tune yourself, you can always get some good data and a decent map and change it later. Hitting an EXACT AFR that you have in your head is not really important, keep it safe and fat until you really know what you need.

If you install larger injectors and are using AT, keep in mind that you will need to take out a ton of fuel when you are cruising or not in boost. You will see that the cell tracker jumps 2-4 cells when idling or holding a steady RPM when not in boost, and that will make the AT go crazy and you will get nowhere. There is nothing you can do about it, the engine is a huge V-Twin, and no amount of vacuum tank or restrictor fiddling made a difference, it is what it is. I actually got a great N/A table made with the big injectors when the bike was N/A, and I run a pressure table on top of it. I had to manually add 5-15% fuel to the vacuum side of the table after the turbo was installed, the airflow difference between N/A and turbo is quite a bit. Many people just run a pressure table, and that is fine, but you have to be able to accurately tune it. I may still take mine to a dyno and just have them do it right for piece of mind, but I'm pretty close.

Get four check valves as recommended and put them inline with the IAP sensors, just do it. I did, as I am not about to spend $$$ on replacements when they get destroyed.

Get rid of your stock belt and install the S&S belt and be done, it's a good piece.

Your clutch will NOT survive under decent boost. If it's stock, take it apart, remove the wire clip and 4 skinny black spacers and cushions and throw them away. I had slippage from 3K up at high boost and thought it was the tire spinning in the cold. Replaced the clutch with the Barnett Kevlar, and had the exact same issue. Pulled the clutch apart, took out the spacers/cushions, and it holds perfect. Do the Barnett conversion with the heavy red springs(they are actually green) while you are in there. Do NOT double-stack the stock belleville washers, your clutch cable will NOT live, and the pull is HEAVY. I installed the Barnett cable after mine broke.

Be prepared to cut and fit and grind and modify to get everything to fit. If you are in a hurry, do not tackle this project.

Ebay and Amazon will be your new best friend for all of the pieces you need, be prepared to order weird things you didn't think you would need, like oil fittings and such.

I used a double banjo-bolt to attach my AN line to the cylinder feed, and an AN-10 drain kit. I used and AN-10 bulkhead connector through the center of the stator cover. You will need to take it off, remove the stator, drill and enormous hole right in the middle, and make sure you get the fitting tight. I have also seen people use what I am guessing is an NPT hose barb into the cover, which probably would have been easier in retrospect.

To get started, secure the turbo where it will sit and fab up the pipe from the rear cylinder first, and get the turbo sitting on the flange exactly where you want it. Tack everything together. Then and only then should you tackle the front cylinder. Be prepared to remove and cut and grind and re-shape things until they are how you like them. Start with either new or the stock exhaust bosses with a bit of pipe attached to them and go from there. Keep in mind that you need room for the downpipe if it exits to the rear, so you have to keep the hot side from the rear cylinder decently close to the engine. Make sure you have room for your right leg, and put some kind of heat shield on the DP.

The cold side is a PITA as everyone says. I chose to mount the turbo high on the right, with the discharge facing straight to the left. I don't know where the stock coils are mounted, but you will need to make sure everything fits under the tank. My coils and everything else were and are mounted on an aluminum plate that sits just below the tank. I cant tell you much other than to take your time, trial fit, cut, grind, move, etc. Do not use hose clamps, use SS clamps for boost piping, and trim off excess thread length once everything is tight. Make sure you leave room for the plug wires to fit onto the plugs.

Do not get caught up in making everything perfect for that last 2HP, it really doesn't matter all that much. You will be pretty astounded at how much power and torque you get from even low boost levels. At 14 PSI, it is mindblowing. Spend the time reading and researching before you order a single piece, and do not waste your money on a used turbo. I paid less than $200 for mine new, it was surely made in China, but it works great. I have an AN-3 or AN-4 running to it and no oil issues whatsoever. If you want a high $$ or BB turbo, go for it, but the biggest expense is fuel management. Get the POD-300 and AT so you can at least halfway monitor things if you do not get it dyno-tuned. I am at about $1,500 all-in, and half of that was the DJ stuff.

I wanted a full, muffled exhaust, so I used a 3" DP with O2 bung and an 18" Dynomax Race Bullet with a custom turndown for a full exhaust. If you like to make noise that's cool, but this thing is loud enough, and I would rather have hear the turbo noises anyways. Finding a DP or adapter that mounted to the TD04 pattern was very difficult, but I got one for an STI I think and cut it up and re-welded everything to make it ft. Keep in mind if you run a full or even short rear-exit exhaust that the frame rail is at about a 45 degree angle on the right side, and it will look goofy if the exhaust does not follow that angle.

I am sure there are things that I left out or that people will disagree with, but this is my experience and I hope it helps at least 1 person. In the end it is very much worth it. I will try to get some pictures up when I get a chance. I think mine turned out much nicer than some I have seen, but not nearly as nice as the full SS with TIG weld builds that are floating around. It will absolutely not outrun my ZX-12R, but it is 10X more fun to ride and turns heads everywhere. The torque and HP and pretty insane. I am 260 pounds and it will just about float the front tire in 2nd gear. If you want to have some fun with anything less than a 1000+CC rocket, this bike will do it, especially under 100 MPH.
 

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I’ll have to work on pics this week, what is everybody using to post them here? Everything is on my IPhone right now.

I wanted to add, I would recommend eliminating the idle air control assembly. The ECU doesn’t care if it’s there(no light), it will free up two big vacuum ports you can tee together(I run a line to MAP and BOV from these), and it will eliminate the possibility of weird boost leaks and issues, as well as free up some room. I set my idle at about 1,000 RPM or a tad higher, and when it’s cold out it helps to crack the throttle a little when starting, but it idles fine when cold(like 30 degrees cold), just at a lower RPM, maybe 650 or so until it warms up.

I have also found, both N/A and turbo, that the stock fuel map or possibly even ignition cause an intermittent pop or backfire either just off idle or when whacking the throttle open. The response has never been super-smooth or snappy in the three years I have owned the bike. I actually think it’s a rich stumble, and I hate it, but I have not been able to figure it out. Adding accel pump fuel does NOT help. If anyone has seen this issue or actually fixed it, I would love to hear what you have to say. I use smooth throttle inputs and roll-ons, but it gets annoying when revving to downshift or cracking the throttle open from a stop. I have never had a bike do this, the two Indians I rode this Summer were perfect.
 

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I’ll have to work on pics this week, what is everybody using to post them here? Everything is on my IPhone right now.

I wanted to add, I would recommend eliminating the idle air control assembly. The ECU doesn’t care if it’s there(no light), it will free up two big vacuum ports you can tee together(I run a line to MAP and BOV from these), and it will eliminate the possibility of weird boost leaks and issues, as well as free up some room. I set my idle at about 1,000 RPM or a tad higher, and when it’s cold out it helps to crack the throttle a little when starting, but it idles fine when cold(like 30 degrees cold), just at a lower RPM, maybe 650 or so until it warms up.

I have also found, both N/A and turbo, that the stock fuel map or possibly even ignition cause an intermittent pop or backfire either just off idle or when whacking the throttle open. The response has never been super-smooth or snappy in the three years I have owned the bike. I actually think it’s a rich stumble, and I hate it, but I have not been able to figure it out. Adding accel pump fuel does NOT help. If anyone has seen this issue or actually fixed it, I would love to hear what you have to say. I use smooth throttle inputs and roll-ons, but it gets annoying when revving to downshift or cracking the throttle open from a stop. I have never had a bike do this, the two Indians I rode this Summer were perfect.
Welcome to the warrior family and the best warrior 4m.
 

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That is GREAT info for anyone thinking of going the turbo route - well done!

As you only have a couple of posts, you might need to get a few more under your belt in order to post photos.

8 more "yes's" ought to do it! hehe...


Looking forward to seeing your work.

Thanks again for taking the time to feed us this important stuff.

Cheers!
 

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What Jarv said. Then you can just upload them from your phone to your gallery or to this post or both. Looking for wardd to seeing your work.
M
 

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Thank you guys, I’ll get my post count up and get the pictures posted. If anybody has any specific questions about the process or parts I used, post it up and I will answer.
 

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Pictures

Ok, I created an album and uploaded a few pictures I took before, during, and after the build. It's in my profile, I can't post links yet, and I don't know what my post count has to be. Sorry about some of the sideways pics, they were right-side-up when I uploaded them. What I was really lacking during the planning of my build was pictures of what others had done with the intake plumbing. It is very tight, but works perfect with 2" plumbing.

I am also curious if anyone with a turbo Warrior can give me some advice on how much timing I can add out of boost and much you think I should pull while I am in boost, I have no idea what these bikes like. I am getting away with a lot right now because it's 30-50 degrees outside right now, but I want it nice and safe for Summer on 12-13 PSI. I am not looking for maximum HP, just safe and fun for now. I has always felt powerful but lazy when N/A, if that makes sense. I'll play around with it some more when today's snow is gone.

I am also very interested on what anyone has done to cure the off-idle and throttle-whack stumble/miss/backfire I get occasionally. I know it's in the tuning, and I haven't gotten very deep into diagnosing it yet, but surely fuel + or - and timing + or - can help tremendously. As far as I know the ECU is completely stock, and I have had the same issue both N/A and turbo, as well as with 3 different fuel management units. I tried adding accel pump fuel when it was N/A and that just seemed to make it worse. I am going to check the TPS base voltage tomorrow, I saw .630 Volts mentioned in another thread, but it doesn't hurt to ask. My PCV TPS is set up correctly, and the Dynotek will be arriving later this week. Plugs are fresh and everything checks out.
 

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Perhaps someone will chime in, but I think you need ten posts to be able to add photos.
Nearly there!
 

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I wanted to make a clarification on clutch springs. I spent some more time on this site searching around, and found that I DO NOT have the heavy-duty red springs. I thought the color had changed, because all of the "heavy-duty" springs I found were green. Turns out I was wrong. The correct parts listing is below. I just ordered a set for less than $20 shipped. I was wondering why the clutch still seemed kind of soft in the higher gears. It feels like it is just on the verge of slipping at WOT, which is exactly what it must be doing. I'm not going to mess with putting in 3 full plates, the ~20% increase in spring pressure should do the trick.

Barnett springs-
Gold: 501-75-06005 (MT-05) = 75lb at 1-inch
Green: #501-82-06023 (MT23) = 82lb at 1-inch
Red: #501-99-06091 (MT91) = 99lb at 1-inch

I also played around with tuning and found that my throttle response is much improved by leaning out the fuel while out of boost. Running around 13.5-13.7 AFR now( was in the 12's before just to get it close), and it is much better. The factory ECU still POURS fuel in for enrichment, but I'll deal with that after the Dynatek unit arrives on Monday. AFR at full boost is 11:1, and it really seems to like it. Once I can pull some timing I might try taking it to 11.5 just to see, but I really don't think I'll notice a difference, and gas is cheap compared to possible detonation damage. Bike is running great now, and I still can't believe I didn't do this two years ago.

Edit: Again, I am very happy with the performance, but if I can run more boost "safely", then why not? What do some of you guys have your boost turned up to on stock motors for street riding? I don't do any high-speed or long pulls, so it's only momentary WOT.
 

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Well Done Bro!
Its a Labour Of Love Doing These Turbo Conversions, But The First Time You Take Them For a Blat & You Return With a Smile Like a Cheshire Cat & Giggling Like a Little School Girl ( As MMFB Says ) You Realize Its All Worth It . Bike Looks Cool Nice Job Well Done :)
 

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Thanks 10FT, I appreciate it! The Dynatek Fusion arrived today, much to my surprise. I wasted no time and had it installed in about 45 minutes. All I can say is WOW, made a huge difference over the PCV, like a transformative difference. I put in 4 degrees of timing out of boost, and took out a progressive six degrees while in boost. SMOOTH like never before, and taking out six degrees lost 0 power as far as I can tell, it almost feels quicker.

I know Powercommander owns Dynatek, but seriously, don't even waste your time with a PCV. If you have one and do a turbo, rip it out of there and install the Dynatek. The throttle feels CRISP now. I'll go on a long ride tomorrow and see if I still have any weird intermittent AFR or backfire issues, but I'm pretty confident both of my PCV's were just junk. PC will never admit it, but most of us have read about or experienced some pretty crazy PC issues that are magically solved when the unit is replaced or removed.

My only notes from the install are read the instructions all the way through, and follow them to a T, they are very, very good. Download the control SW and the FW update from the website and get them set up on your laptop. I ran the bike first without the FW update installed, and I had no ignition table. After the FW update, a TPS ignition map appeared. Although I installed a full map that I had saved, I still had to calibrate the TPS, put in the values for my MAP sensor, activate and set up Autotune or Dynatune(then your pressure and trim tables will appear), and add a timing pressure map. So basically, you will have to do a full setup for the features you want, but all of your tables will carry over.
 

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Ok, I created an album and uploaded a few pictures I took before, during, and after the build. It's in my profile, I can't post links yet, and I don't know what my post count has to be. Sorry about some of the sideways pics, they were right-side-up when I uploaded them. What I was really lacking during the planning of my build was pictures of what others had done with the intake plumbing. It is very tight, but works perfect with 2" plumbing.

I am also curious if anyone with a turbo Warrior can give me some advice on how much timing I can add out of boost and much you think I should pull while I am in boost, I have no idea what these bikes like. I am getting away with a lot right now because it's 30-50 degrees outside right now, but I want it nice and safe for Summer on 12-13 PSI. I am not looking for maximum HP, just safe and fun for now. I has always felt powerful but lazy when N/A, if that makes sense. I'll play around with it some more when today's snow is gone.

I am also very interested on what anyone has done to cure the off-idle and throttle-whack stumble/miss/backfire I get occasionally. I know it's in the tuning, and I haven't gotten very deep into diagnosing it yet, but surely fuel + or - and timing + or - can help tremendously. As far as I know the ECU is completely stock, and I have had the same issue both N/A and turbo, as well as with 3 different fuel management units. I tried adding accel pump fuel when it was N/A and that just seemed to make it worse. I am going to check the TPS base voltage tomorrow, I saw .630 Volts mentioned in another thread, but it doesn't hurt to ask. My PCV TPS is set up correctly, and the Dynotek will be arriving later this week. Plugs are fresh and everything checks out.
As far as timing, I did some testing on the dyno, and found that the timing effected the power very minimally, so I left it lower. I currently run mine at -4 on pump gas in boost. Anything past -6 and it will start killing power big time. As for the off idle stumble, good luck. It's in the ECU. If you watch your fuel table while running, your throttle position will go to -- instead of 0. The ECU actually shuts off the injectors on decel, then when you open it again, you have to wait for it to transition. The accelerator pump will not fix this, but can improve it, but it is tricky to set it properly, and kinda confusing. As for the autotune. You seem to be disappointed in it, and wanted to make sure you understand that it isn't advertised as an immediate solution. It collects data over time, and slowly makes adjustments. And the more radical your build is, the harder it is for it to do its job. For instance, say you tell it you want 13.0 AFR at this RPM, and the bike runs at 13.4, well the auto tune is programmed to know that for most warriors, x amount of fuel will make that .4 difference. In my bike with big injectors, it will take that same x amount, but instead of dropping it to 13.0, it will go to 12.2, the try to correct it with the same formula, and go 14.4, and it ends up getting confused. So when I set mine up, it's limited to make a 3% change as a max. Now I can view where it thinks I need to add or take away fuel, and make a decision, and the 3% is enough to adjust for atmospheric and elevation conditions. The reason I DO like the auto tune, is because when used with the POD-300, you can watch live data boost and AFR, data log, tune on the fly, and many other feature. The autotune doesn't work as design on our turbo bikes, but if used properly, can still be a valuable product.

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